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    The Vintage Contessa

    Sheer elegance: Yves Saint Laurent retrospective is a "mind-boggling" journeythrough fashion & art

    Donae Cangelosi Chramosta
    Mar 26, 2012 | 10:01 am
    • The smoking jacket
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Yves Saint Laurent, short cocktail dress, tribute to Piet Mondrian, hautecouture collection, fall-winter 1965. Ecru wool jersey encrusted with black,red, yellow and blue
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Yves Saint Laurent, short evening coat, haute couture collection, spring-summer1971, green fox fur
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Behind the Scenes — shoes everywhere
    • The collision of colors
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Yves Saint Laurent, short evening ensemble, tribute to Vincent Van Gogh, hautecouture collection, spring-summer 1988. Jacket embroidered with sequins andpearls, green crepe blouse and purple crepe skirt
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • A worker at the Denver Art Museum unpacks a piece for the Yves Saint Laurentshow.
    • The clothing must be handled with care.

    DENVER — Paris. Madrid. Denver. An unlikely lineup, that is until you meet the amazing director of the Denver Art Museum, Christoph Heinrich. While traveling in Paris during the summer of 2010, Heinrich waited two hours to view Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective at the Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris.

    Heinrich said it was such a “mind boggling” journey through history, art and fashion, he was compelled to immediately begin negotiating with the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent to bring the retrospective to Denver, the only United States venue to show this incredible exhibit.

    Now the fruits of his labors are paying off for the Mile High City and all those who make the journey to The Denver Art Museum (DAM) through July 8. This sweeping retrospective of the designer’s 40 years of creativity features a dazzling selection of 200 haute couture outfits along with numerous photographs, drawings and films illustrating Saint Laurent’s entire creative output.

    This sweeping retrospective of the designer’s 40 years of creativity features a dazzling selection of 200 haute couture outfits along with numerous photographs, drawings and films illustrating Saint Laurent’s entire creative output.

    Curated by Florence Müller and overseen by Bergé, Saint Laurent's longtime business partner and collaborator, the retrospective is organized thematically, including multifaceted presentations melding design and art to explore the full expanse of his career, from his first days at Dior in 1958 through the splendor of his final runway collection in 2002.

    “We’re thrilled to bring the stunning style and design of Saint Laurent to the United States,” Heinrich said. “His designs revolutionized the fashion world just as the masters he drew inspiration from revolutionized the art world. This exhibition showcases the exquisite designs of an artist.”

    The DAM retrospective is a bit more “edgy” that the Paris exhibition, with a full staircase of stunning couture pieces that will “knock your socks off," Heinrich said.

    Empowering women

    During his 40-year career Saint Laurent transformed the female wardrobe by reinterpreting men's clothing such as the tuxedo, the trouser suit, shorts and the Safari jacket from men's clothing, empowering women in the process. He is significantly important in forming the way we dress as a woman today. Many credit Coco Chanel with changing the way women dress in the first 50 years of the last century and YSL with transforming their wardrobe in the last 50 years.

    Saint Laurent created a gender revolution by allowing women to express themselves freely, melding the flair of a man’s suit with the seductiveness of woman’s clothing. He bent and sometimes broke the rules of what women were expected to wear.

    “This exhibition demonstrates the impact of Saint Laurent’s work on the history of fashion and the present-day relevance of his style,” said exhibition curator Müller. “His creations achieved an ingenious symbiotic relationship between setting style and recognizing popular trends that made them not only wardrobe necessities, but also reflected women’s changing role in society.”

    The exhibition begins with a display of Saint Laurent’s designs for Dior, including the 1958 “Trapeze” collection, anticipating the freedom movement of the 1960s.

    YSL drew inspiration from the World War II era in the Scandal Collection (1971). His travels — some real, some imaginary — through Africa, China, India, Japan, Morocco, Spain and Russia, spurred him on to incorporate exotic materials, fur and feathers into the collections.

    Art and fashion

    Saint Laurent launched a 1965 collection inspired by Piet Mondrian, the early 20th century painter known for his distinctive style of lines and bold color combinations on flat surfaces. Mondrian’s work clearly inspired Saint Laurent in the first of many of the designer’s intersections with the art world. Just as an artist does, he looked at what came before him.

    "My primary concern has always been respect for my craft, which is not exactly an art, but which depends on an artist for its existence," he once said.

    The first ever “Le Smoking” (the French term for tuxedo) from 1966 is paired with a variety of other tuxedos, each representative of a fundamental work by the designer.

    His fans included Catherine Deneuve, Princess Grace of Monaco, Nan Kempner, Paloma Picasso, Diana Vreeland and H.R.H. Duchess of Windsor. Although he was an incredibly shy person he had very close relationships with the women of his time. In 1966 while making Belle De Jour, Deneuve met Saint Laurent and became his lifelong muse. His designs became some of the most celebrated of their time and are referenced time and again in fashion and pop culture.

    The magic of the evening and fashion is the focus of "The Last Ball" section, a succession of exquisite evening dresses from the glory days of haute couture — complete with a red carpet.

    Visitors are given a close look at 40 years of Saint Laurent's creations through a wall of more than 30 tuxedos. The first ever “Le Smoking” (the French term for tuxedo) from 1966 is paired with a variety of other tuxedos, each representative of a fundamental work by the designer.

    Saint Laurent was the first recognized designer to use color blocking. Many current designers using combinations of pink and orange draw from his inspiration as a “master of color and balance,” Heinrich said.

    In the "Colors of Saint Laurent' Gallery, guests move through the collision of colors YSL famously used in his designs, with vibrant examples from his collections and hundreds of fabric samples.

    The foundation retained pieces from each runway show. The designer died in 2009; the sale of the his art and collectables at Christie's in 2009 raked in $484 million. The proceeds endowed the foundation to preserve and protect these pieces for centuries.

    The Denver Art Museum is providing a variety of special and private tours including wine, fashion and perfume pairings.

    For Texans traveling to the exhibit, Denver hotels, including the Four Season, JW Marriott and the Ritz-Carlton, have created Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective VIP Packages. For more information visit denverartmuseum.org or call 720-865-5000.

    Donae Cangelosi Chramosta, the owner of The Vintage Contessa, writes about travel, design and fashion.
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    EFFORTLESS EDIT

    Shop Carolyn Bessette's minimal '90s style at these 8 Houston spots

    Gabi De la Rosa
    Mar 19, 2026 | 10:30 am
    Love Story
    Photo courtesy of FX/Facebook
    Thanks to the show, "Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. And Carolyn Bessette," 90s minimalism is back and easy to find in Houston.

    Thanks to Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette, the woman who helped define ’90s minimalism is back in heavy rotation. Her classic way of dressing serves as a reminder that great style does not need logos or loud trends to make a big impact. Bessette-Kennedy's uniform of crisp white shirts, perfectly cut denim, and minimal accessories is not only nostalgic, but a stylish blueprint for getting dressed right now.

    Houstonians don't need a NYC zip code or a Calvin Klein press badge to recreate her most classic looks. From River Oaks District to Rice Village and the Heights, boutiques are leaning into that same pared-back polish — making it easy to find a quietly expensive aesthetic without overthinking it.

    Accessories

    Lele Sadoughi

    Bessette-Kennedy often topped off her casual outfits with a slim tortoise shell headband, and Lele Sadoughi, a boutique in River Oaks District, is leaning into similar timeless styles. The Tortoise Emma Acetate Headband and the Jet Faux Leather Bessette Headband are both available for preorder with similar styles available in-store.

    Lele Sadoughi Polished headbands and statement accessories with a timeless twist.Photo courtesy of Lele Sadoughi

    Krewe

    New Orleans-born Krewe eyewear in Rice Village is channeling '90s minimalistic style with slim, small-frame sunglasses that are reminiscent of Bessette-Kennedy's go-to pairs. Its Spring 2026 collection introduces the Kate and Leah styles, each offered in three colorways.

    Krewe Sleek, small-frame sunglasses that channel effortless ’90s cool.Photo courtesy of Krewe

    Fly High Little Bunny

    This Houston go-to for one of a kind pieces offers a variety of both fine jewelry and classic sterling silver styles. Jeweled hoops, dainty rings, and minimal necklaces that were everyday staples of Bessette-Kennedy, are available at their Heights boutique.

    Fly High Little Bunny Delicate jewelry and one-of-a-kind pieces for everyday minimalism.Photo courtesy of Fly High Little Bunny/Instagram

    Moreau Paris

    Often seen carrying a tote bag, the '90s fashion icon was a big fan of understated luxury. River Oaks District handbag boutique Moreau Paris offers a variety of bags in similar styles including the Mini Vincennes Reversible Totes giving a two-in-one option, as well as the Small Ana Saddle Leather Top Handle Bag for a more structured look.

    Moreau Paris Understated luxury handbags with clean lines and quiet sophistication.Photo courtesy of Moreau Paris

    Clothing

    Tootsies

    When it came to denim, Bessette-Kennedy kept things classic, favoring straight and bootcut styles. At Tootsies, the brand DL1961 taps into that same timeless feel. The Bridget Boot High Rise Instasculpt offers a flattering polished fit and comes in a variety of colorways and lengths making it easy to find a pair for everyday wear.

    DL1961 Classic denim fits and elevated staples for a polished, everyday look.Photo courtesy of DL1961

    Alchemia

    One of Bessette-Kennedy's most celebrated looks was a basic white button down shirt. She often wore Calvin Klein, as she was a publicist for the brand, but the same classic style can be found at Alchemia. The Essentials Icon Shirt in white is tailored at the waist, chest, and back to give a flattering fit without the dreaded blouse gape.

    Alchemia Tailored essentials, including the perfect crisp white button-down.Photo courtesy of Alchemia

    Frock Shop

    A versatile black midi skirt not only goes with everything, it can be worn during any season. Frock Shop carries the ALC Remy Drawstring Midi Skirt that is easy to style and comfortable to keep on a regular rotation.

    Frock Shop Easy, versatile pieces like midi skirts that work season after season.Photo courtesy of Frock Shop

    Beauty

    Kiehl's

    Used by both Carolyn and John, the Kiehl's Creme with Silk Groom delivers soft hold, subtle shine, and natural movement. Ideal for the sleek low buns Kennedy-Bessette favored as well as polished styles. Kiehl's Highland Village location also carries a scent very close to Kennedy Bessette's fragrance of choice. The Kiehl's Original Musk Eau de Toilette combines classic musk with with soft floral and woody notes.

    Kiehl's Original Musk Eau de Toilette Low-key grooming and fragrance for a naturally polished finish.Photo courtesy of Kiehl's

    kiehl'sfrock shopalchemiatootsiesmoreau parisfly high little bunnykrewelele sadoughicarolyn bessette-kennedyshopping
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