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    The Vintage Contessa

    Sheer elegance: Yves Saint Laurent retrospective is a "mind-boggling" journeythrough fashion & art

    Donae Cangelosi Chramosta
    Mar 26, 2012 | 10:01 am
    • The smoking jacket
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Yves Saint Laurent, short cocktail dress, tribute to Piet Mondrian, hautecouture collection, fall-winter 1965. Ecru wool jersey encrusted with black,red, yellow and blue
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Yves Saint Laurent, short evening coat, haute couture collection, spring-summer1971, green fox fur
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Behind the Scenes — shoes everywhere
    • The collision of colors
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • Yves Saint Laurent, short evening ensemble, tribute to Vincent Van Gogh, hautecouture collection, spring-summer 1988. Jacket embroidered with sequins andpearls, green crepe blouse and purple crepe skirt
      Photo by A. Guirkinger/© Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris
    • A worker at the Denver Art Museum unpacks a piece for the Yves Saint Laurentshow.
    • The clothing must be handled with care.

    DENVER — Paris. Madrid. Denver. An unlikely lineup, that is until you meet the amazing director of the Denver Art Museum, Christoph Heinrich. While traveling in Paris during the summer of 2010, Heinrich waited two hours to view Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective at the Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris.

    Heinrich said it was such a “mind boggling” journey through history, art and fashion, he was compelled to immediately begin negotiating with the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent to bring the retrospective to Denver, the only United States venue to show this incredible exhibit.

    Now the fruits of his labors are paying off for the Mile High City and all those who make the journey to The Denver Art Museum (DAM) through July 8. This sweeping retrospective of the designer’s 40 years of creativity features a dazzling selection of 200 haute couture outfits along with numerous photographs, drawings and films illustrating Saint Laurent’s entire creative output.

    This sweeping retrospective of the designer’s 40 years of creativity features a dazzling selection of 200 haute couture outfits along with numerous photographs, drawings and films illustrating Saint Laurent’s entire creative output.

    Curated by Florence Müller and overseen by Bergé, Saint Laurent's longtime business partner and collaborator, the retrospective is organized thematically, including multifaceted presentations melding design and art to explore the full expanse of his career, from his first days at Dior in 1958 through the splendor of his final runway collection in 2002.

    “We’re thrilled to bring the stunning style and design of Saint Laurent to the United States,” Heinrich said. “His designs revolutionized the fashion world just as the masters he drew inspiration from revolutionized the art world. This exhibition showcases the exquisite designs of an artist.”

    The DAM retrospective is a bit more “edgy” that the Paris exhibition, with a full staircase of stunning couture pieces that will “knock your socks off," Heinrich said.

    Empowering women

    During his 40-year career Saint Laurent transformed the female wardrobe by reinterpreting men's clothing such as the tuxedo, the trouser suit, shorts and the Safari jacket from men's clothing, empowering women in the process. He is significantly important in forming the way we dress as a woman today. Many credit Coco Chanel with changing the way women dress in the first 50 years of the last century and YSL with transforming their wardrobe in the last 50 years.

    Saint Laurent created a gender revolution by allowing women to express themselves freely, melding the flair of a man’s suit with the seductiveness of woman’s clothing. He bent and sometimes broke the rules of what women were expected to wear.

    “This exhibition demonstrates the impact of Saint Laurent’s work on the history of fashion and the present-day relevance of his style,” said exhibition curator Müller. “His creations achieved an ingenious symbiotic relationship between setting style and recognizing popular trends that made them not only wardrobe necessities, but also reflected women’s changing role in society.”

    The exhibition begins with a display of Saint Laurent’s designs for Dior, including the 1958 “Trapeze” collection, anticipating the freedom movement of the 1960s.

    YSL drew inspiration from the World War II era in the Scandal Collection (1971). His travels — some real, some imaginary — through Africa, China, India, Japan, Morocco, Spain and Russia, spurred him on to incorporate exotic materials, fur and feathers into the collections.

    Art and fashion

    Saint Laurent launched a 1965 collection inspired by Piet Mondrian, the early 20th century painter known for his distinctive style of lines and bold color combinations on flat surfaces. Mondrian’s work clearly inspired Saint Laurent in the first of many of the designer’s intersections with the art world. Just as an artist does, he looked at what came before him.

    "My primary concern has always been respect for my craft, which is not exactly an art, but which depends on an artist for its existence," he once said.

    The first ever “Le Smoking” (the French term for tuxedo) from 1966 is paired with a variety of other tuxedos, each representative of a fundamental work by the designer.

    His fans included Catherine Deneuve, Princess Grace of Monaco, Nan Kempner, Paloma Picasso, Diana Vreeland and H.R.H. Duchess of Windsor. Although he was an incredibly shy person he had very close relationships with the women of his time. In 1966 while making Belle De Jour, Deneuve met Saint Laurent and became his lifelong muse. His designs became some of the most celebrated of their time and are referenced time and again in fashion and pop culture.

    The magic of the evening and fashion is the focus of "The Last Ball" section, a succession of exquisite evening dresses from the glory days of haute couture — complete with a red carpet.

    Visitors are given a close look at 40 years of Saint Laurent's creations through a wall of more than 30 tuxedos. The first ever “Le Smoking” (the French term for tuxedo) from 1966 is paired with a variety of other tuxedos, each representative of a fundamental work by the designer.

    Saint Laurent was the first recognized designer to use color blocking. Many current designers using combinations of pink and orange draw from his inspiration as a “master of color and balance,” Heinrich said.

    In the "Colors of Saint Laurent' Gallery, guests move through the collision of colors YSL famously used in his designs, with vibrant examples from his collections and hundreds of fabric samples.

    The foundation retained pieces from each runway show. The designer died in 2009; the sale of the his art and collectables at Christie's in 2009 raked in $484 million. The proceeds endowed the foundation to preserve and protect these pieces for centuries.

    The Denver Art Museum is providing a variety of special and private tours including wine, fashion and perfume pairings.

    For Texans traveling to the exhibit, Denver hotels, including the Four Season, JW Marriott and the Ritz-Carlton, have created Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective VIP Packages. For more information visit denverartmuseum.org or call 720-865-5000.

    Donae Cangelosi Chramosta, the owner of The Vintage Contessa, writes about travel, design and fashion.
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    WHERE TO SHOP IN DECEMBER

    Where to shop right now: 12 Houston stores selling seasonal standouts

    Gabi De la Rosa
    Dec 2, 2025 | 1:00 pm
    ​Zadok Jewelers
    Photo courtesy of Zadok Jewelers
    Zadok Jewelers rings in the holidays with exclusive trunk shows and limited edition designs.

    Houston finally got its first real blast of cold weather, which means two things. One, Houstonians can finally show off their stylish outerwear and boots. Two, the holiday shopping season is officially on. For those who want to avoid shipping roulette and actually enjoy the hunt this year, many local boutiques make it easy to find holiday gifts.

    This month's roundup has everything from festive markets to new arrivals and luxury offerings, as well as many one-of-a-kind gifts that aren't available in big box stores.

    19th Street Shopping District
    On Friday, December 5, from 6-10 pm, 19th Street in the Heights will host its annual holiday market. Expect Santa sightings, live music, carolers, photo ops, and late-night browsing at neighborhood favorites, including Manready Mercantile, Big Blue Whale, Jubilee, Emerson Rose, and more.

    Abejas
    Sisters Blair and Jenna Stubbe have curated a go-to holiday edit at their Rice Village boutique. New arrivals include gorgeous pleated skirts by Loyd/Ford, dresses for every occasion, and a smattering of one-of-a-kind accessories.

    A Beintot
    Holiday shopping at this French-inspired outpost is easy with offerings in nearly every category, including bags, scarves, clothes, and home decor, all in the latest styles. Favorites include Senda jewelry, The Blueberry Hill kids' clothing, and Vilgallo sweaters and outerwear.

    Chloe Dao
    Chloe Dao is offering five custom-designed Christmas patches in her MKT Heights boutique. All proceeds from the patches will be donated to Bayou City Blessings in a Backpack, an organization that helps children who face food insecurity in Houston.

    Daniel & Co.
    Founded by master jeweler Daniel Dang, Daniel and Co. blends heritage and modern polish in every piece. This season brings gift-ready favorites like diamond tennis bracelets, gemstone rings, and a sharp lineup of luxury timepieces from Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Hublot, Breitling, Panerai, Franck Muller, and Patek Philippe. All Dang's jewelry is crafted in-house, and custom designs can be turned around in about two weeks.

    Framebridge
    The popular online custom framing brand just opened its first brick-and-mortar store in River Oaks. Now, customers can enjoy a bespoke framing experience in person. Photos, even from a smartphone, mementos, and objects can all be memorialized with the brand's whimsical offerings.

    Lucchese
    The iconic Texas bootmaker just launched its latest collection, Black Cherry. Available in one style for men and four different silhouettes for women, the collection also includes a lineup of accessories, including belts, home decor, leather goods, and clothing.

    Moreau Paris
    The luxury Parisian handbag boutique recently moved to new digs in River Oaks District. Now located across from Bari, shoppers can still snag their favorite geometric prints, including the just-launched 1882 Collection.

    Piermarini
    Family-owned and operated, this Rice Village store offers luxury finds from global brands including Issey Miyake, Lars Andersson, Vaincourt, and more. It is the spot for finding a gift for the person who has everything or a style setter with a penchant for elevated finds.

    Saint Lo Boutique
    The Heights' shop has earned a reputation as a go-to source for upscale fashion, from casual staples to pieces for a night out. Shoppers can snag looks from a curated collection of dresses, rompers, pants, tops, and accessories.

    Sloan/Hall
    One of Houston's favorite independent shops is stocked up on unique holiday finds. From printed silk socks to dazzling jewelry and whimsical holiday wear, there is something for everyone at Sloan/Hall's two Houston boutiques.

    Zadok Jewelers
    The buzzy Post Oak jewelry store is celebrating the holiday season with a curated trunk show series featuring world-renowned designers, exclusive new line debuts, and a festive in-store experience. Shoppers can expect trunk shows from Roberto Coin, Dinh Van, JB Star, Walters Faith, and more. More information about events is available here.

    \u200bZadok Jewelers

    Photo courtesy of Zadok Jewelers

    Zadok Jewelers rings in the holidays with exclusive trunk shows and limited edition designs.

    river oaks districtzadok jewelerssaint lomoreau parisluccheseframebridgedaniel & coabejas boutique19th streetchloe daohouston shopping
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