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    Larger than life

    Fashion week thinks big: Kors soars, Oscar's blingfest & Marc Jacobs' fracturedfairy tale

    Clifford Pugh
    Feb 17, 2012 | 4:03 pm
    Fashion week thinks big: Kors soars, Oscar's blingfest & Marc Jacobs' fracturedfairy tale
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    NEW YORK — As Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week drew to a close, the shows seemed a little bit like Texas: Everything was bigger. Heavyweights Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs each unveiled larger-than-life fall collections with eye-catching themes that illustrate the breath and depth of American fashion.

    Oscar's big bling

    Even when times are tough, Oscar de la Renta rarely cuts back on the glamour quotient. So with hints that the economy is slowly coming out of a recession, it figured that the beloved designer wouldn't alter his style.

    De la Renta stuck to his guns with a fall collection that glittered and glowed. At least half of the looks incorporate a "Bijoux pendant" pattern that resembles a dangling diamond-and-pearl earring. It is stamped on the fabric of parkas, silk dresses and blouses and dangles as shiny 3-D jewels from cardigans, dresses and pants.

    No de la Renta show would be complete without lavish evening gowns. The selection offers something for everyone, from a simple crushed velvet column gown to full-on princess gowns with big taffeta skirts.

    While other designers have featured black for fall, much of de la Renta's collection is soft pink or baby blue, which no doubt will appeal to his younger fans.

    But longtime adherents shouldn't fret too much, for there is an assortment of suits — tweed for daytime wear and jewel-embroidered for night. For those who want to avoid bling altogether, an icy blue silk dress with a jewel neckline, is toned down by Oscar standards.

    No de la Renta show would be complete without lavish evening gowns. The selection offers something for everyone, from a simple crushed velvet column gown to full-on princess gowns with big taffeta skirts.

    Model-of-the-moment Arizona Muse (that's really her name) closed the show in a big ball gown with a skirt that rose above the knee in front. It revealed a big hole in her fishnet stocking, and I'm not sure if it just happened or it was de la Renta's sly way of saying everything doesn't have to always be perfect.

    Michael's big week

    It's been a good week for Michael Kors. After his fashion house announced strong profits for the last quarter of 2011, the stock price soared nearly 28 percent. (Since going public in December, shares of Kors stock have doubled).

    The next day, Kors showcased his fall collection before a front-row audience that included Smash stars Debra Messing and Angelica Huston, Jessica Alba, Amber Heard and Katie Couric. It was filled with the lush — and very wearable — sportswear that the world expects from Kors.

    Much of this collection seemed made for a cabin in the snowy woods of an upscale resort like Aspen or Park City. There were lots of big red checks and tartan plaids — two models led off the show, a woman in a buffalo check blanket coat and crimson and black tweed pullover and a man in a red tartan coat and similar sweater.

    From there, it was parade of coats — big and flashy (an alpaca fringe sweater coat swallowed one model) and more sedate (a simple leather trench), eyecatching dresses (some mixing leather and lace) and lots of furs. The show closed with s sparkle, as a series of slinky, sequined gowns ready for the red carpet ruled the runway.

    Was it my imagination or was there an extra bounce in Kors' step as he made his post-show walk? With a strong collection like this, he'll likely will be laughing all the way to the bank.

    Marc's big fairy tale

    It's too bad that Marc Jacobs doesn't show his collection multiple times, like a Broadway show, because one time isn't enough to take everything in. His most recent collection had all the makings of a Broadway hit, with an elaborate set designed by Rachel Feinstein that resembled a pop-up fairy tale, completed with a castle and winding runway, multiple rendentions of the song, "Who Will Buy?" from the classic musical Oliver!, and elaborate costumes, er, clothes.

    And after only 13-and-a-half minutes, it was over.

    As the video of the runway show above shows, models were swathed in layers of clothes, their faces obscured by big Dr. Seuss-like hats, so it was hard to tell what they were wearing or how old they are. (Jacobs was heavily criticized for featuring a couple of 14-year-old models in the show; the Council of Fashion Designers of America guidelines set a limit of age 16.)

    While there were some interesting pieces, including Pilgrim booties with big belt buckles, embellished coats, shiny dresses of metallic fabrics, paisley skirts and colorful jackets, one might be tempted to echo the song and wonder, "Who Will Buy?" the pieces, assuming they are manufactured. The mid-calf, billowy silhouette has a thrift store look that is not mass market.

    But that's not what Jacobs is about anyway. He's a dreamer who always gives the fashion crowd plenty to ponder. And, this time, he did it again.

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    DAZZLING DETAILS

    Houston artist's Indian heritage inspires luxe new jewelry collection

    Gabi De la Rosa
    May 21, 2026 | 9:00 am
    Maison Merchant
    Photo by Hung Troung
    Maison Merchant’s debut collections feature sculptural gold designs, diamond accents, and customizable details handcrafted by master artisans in India.

    Houston’s luxury jewelry scene welcomes a sparkling new addition with the official launch of Maison Merchant, the fine jewelry brand founded by Houston-based artist and designer Sneha Merchant.

    The jewelry line is a new creative endeavor for Merchant, whose background as an artist serves as the foundation for the collection’s sculptural, highly detailed aesthetic.

    “Maison Merchant is a fine jewelry collection inspired by my artwork, intricate circular motifs, and timeless craftsmanship, blending high jewelry with meaningful design and storytelling,” Merchant tells CultureMap. “This launch represents a deeply personal evolution of my creative journey, expanding my world as an artist into the realm of fine jewelry through pieces that feel luxurious, wearable, and enduring.”

    Born and raised in Mumbai, Merchant's appreciation for jewelry began early when she would visit the family jeweler with her mother. “Being surrounded by that world from such a young age gave me a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, detail, and the emotional significance jewelry can carry,” she says. “Over the years, I began designing pieces for myself, and wherever I wore them, people would constantly ask about them.”

    This led Merchant to debut her jewelry line with three collections. Cœur du Monde is inspired by mandalas and balanced geometry, while Muse d’Art transforms Merchant’s original artwork into wearable fine jewelry. The third collection, Renaître d’Or, explores transformation through sculptural gold designs accented with diamonds.

    Sneha Merchant Sneha Merchant brings her artistic vision into the world of fine jewelry with the launch of Maison Merchant, a collection inspired by intricate motifs, craftsmanship, and personal storytelling.Photo by Hung Troung

    “Every piece is designed to transition effortlessly from day to evening while retaining the craftsmanship and presence of high-end jewelry,” says Merchant.

    Clients can personalize many designs in existing collections with different colors and material selections. The pieces are then handcrafted by master artisans in India with more than six decades of experience.

    “Bespoke jewelry has always held deep meaning for me because I grew up watching my mother create custom pieces to mark the most important moments in her life,” she says. “Those pieces eventually became far more than jewelry. They carried history, emotion, love, and memories that were passed down through generations.”

    Every Maison Merchant piece begins as a hand sketch, which she says is often the most time-intensive part of the process. “As an artist, translating a two-dimensional artwork into a wearable, three-dimensional form requires immense detail, proportion, and refinement before the design ever moves into production.”

    Merchant's long-term goals go far beyond the debut collection, which is available exclusively online. “I want people to feel an immediate sense of confidence, refinement, and presence when they wear Maison Merchant,” she says. “My vision for Maison Merchant is to create collectible pieces that people return to season after season and eventually pass down for generations.”

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