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    Southern Smoke 2018

    Southern Smoke Festival serves up culinary star power, fab fare, and goodwill

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 1, 2018 | 10:51 am

    If brevity is the soul of wit, than Chris Shepherd is Houston’s Jon Stewart.

    As he took the stage to present the donation checks at the fourth annual Southern Smoke Festival, the James Beard Award winner saluted the crowd for another impressive donation total.

    “You guys fucking rocked it! $425,000,” Shepherd exclaimed.

    Three worthy causes will benefit from the money. The National MS Society will receive $200,000, and Hurricane Florence relief efforts will receive $10,000. The remaining almost $215,000 will go to the Southern Smoke Emergency Relief Fund, a charity formed after Hurricane Harvey that provides financial assistance to people in the restaurant industry. The September 30 total means the event has raised close to $1.5 million dollars in four years.

    Intermittent rain showers couldn’t dampen the crowd’s enthusiasm — or the line for Franklin Barbecue. As always, many of the 1,500-plus attendees waited an hour or more for bites of brisket, sausage, and pimento cheese from the world-renowned Austin barbecue joint.

    But why stand in line for brisket when so many other chefs from across the country delivered such tempting bites? Highlights included Brooklyn pitmaster Billy Durney’s smoked ribeye tacos, Sam Jones’ Carolina-style whole hog sandwiches with crispy pork skin, Chicago chef Jason Vincent’s swordfish with smoked chickpeas, and Seattle chef Edouardo Jordan’s jerk chicken with peas and rice.

    James Beard Award-winning pizzaiolo Chris Bianco served up a Texas version of his signature Wise Guy pizza that used Texas-milled flour from Barton Springs Mill and bacon sausage made by Shepherd. Daniela Soto-Innes, the Beard Award-winning chef de cuisine of acclaimed New York Mexican restaurants Cosme and Atla who previously worked for Shepherd at Underbelly, impressed with her grilled octopus skewer with pineapple salsa.

    Houston chefs delivered plenty of culinary delights, too. Hugo Ortega (Hugo’s, etc.) served huitlacoche tamales, and Kata Robata chef Manabu Horiuchi put his signature spin on Japanese-style skipjack tacos. Justin Yu (Theodore Rex) collaborated with Feges BBQ owners Patrick Feges and Erin Smith on smoked beef cheeks with noodle salad. Agricole Hospitality (Coltivare, Revival Market, etc.) took the unofficial award for the day’s most Instagrammable dish with a Steampunk-looking trompo spit that rotated eight spits of pork and chicken for tacos.

    Attendees could pair that food with any number of beverage options, including cocktails from sponsor Knob Creek, beer from Sierra Nevada, and a wide range of wines. Silent auction items that fetched top dollar included a private dinner for six prepared by Shepherd and New Orleans chef Ryan Prewitt ($33,500), a photo shoot dinner for Shepherd’s upcoming cookbook ($10,500), a trip for four to Burgundy, France with sommelier Antonio Gianola ($10,000), a private dinner for 12 prepared by celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern ($6,000), and the velvet painting of Tom Selleck that hung in One Fifth Romance Languages ($2,125).

    Attending today or not, you can still bid on this treasure. https://t.co/FNf3J4m1rG. You’re welcome. pic.twitter.com/bV4c1RMvj3

    — Southern Smoke (@SouthernSmokeTX) September 30, 2018

    Musical performances by the Bayou City Brass Band, Mariachis Los Gallitos, and Neon Rainbow kept the crowd entertained. VIP attendees could grab a seat in the Lexus lounge or head inside to Hay Merchant.

    The crowd event got a sneak peek at the new interior for Georgia James, the steakhouse Shepherd will open next month. New brick, wood, and lights constitute a total change from the space's previous iteration as Underbelly, but it's a relocated bar that looks to be the biggest change.

    Taken together, this year’s combination of culinary star power, drinks, and entertainment establishes this year’s Southern Smoke as the best one yet. Shepherd and his crew will have to work hard to top it in year five. We can’t wait to see what they come up with.

    Almost $425,000 raised for three worthy causes.

    Southern Smoke 2018 check presentation
      
    Photo by Catchlight Photography
    Almost $425,000 raised for three worthy causes.
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    a new chapter

    Houston's shuttered kosher steakhouse reopens as a non-kosher neighborhood grill

    Eric Sandler
    May 2, 2025 | 10:30 am
    Exodus Bar and Grill owner and chef
    Courtesy of Exodus Bar and Grill
    Owner Jason Goldstein, chef Arturo Macias, and general manager David Tenorio are ready to welcome diners to Exodus Bar and Grill.

    Jason Goldstein is leaving the world of kosher restaurants behind. Although his Meyerland restaurant Genesis Steakhouse & Wine Bar closed on April 30, its space won’t stay empty for long.

    In its place, Goldstein will open a new restaurant called Exodus Bar and Grill. The name has two meanings. First, Exodus is the book that comes after Genesis in the Jewish Torah (aka, the Old Testament). Second, it’s a not-so-subtle poke at the Houston Kashruth Association (HKA), the organization that, in Goldstein’s opinion, forced the closure of Genesis when it removed the restaurant’s kosher certification in January. Unlike Genesis, Exodus will not be a kosher restaurant.

    “It’s very much like Houston’s. A lot of the idea comes from Houston’s. A nice establishment that caters to the masses,” Goldstein tells CultureMap about Exodus. “People in the neighborhood want a nice restaurant they can go to with good service and good ambiance.”

    When Genesis lost its kosher certification, the six Orthodox Jewish rabbis who make up Houston’s Vaad Harabanim urged their congregants not to dine at the restaurant, as it no longer met their standards for being in compliance with Jewish dietary laws. While it’s likely those very religious people won’t dine at Exodus, Goldstein thinks the new concept will appeal to both less traditionally observant Jews who worship at nearby synagogues and residents of neighborhoods like Bellaire, Meyerland, and Westbury who don’t want to leave the area to get a good meal in a nice environment.

    Operating as a non-kosher restaurant comes with some notable advantages compared to operating a kosher establishment. Most importantly, the restaurant will be open on Friday nights and during the day on Saturday, which is strictly forbidden by the HKA. In addition, non-kosher meat is less expensive than kosher meat, which means Exodus’ menu will offer a lower price point than Genesis did. Exodus will be able to serve dishes that mix meat and dairy such as a chicken alfredo pasta, a cheeseburger, or even something as simple as mashed potatoes with butter. Finally, it will also serve non-kosher ingredients like shrimp and other shellfish.

    Indeed, a draft menu Goldstein shared with CultureMap shows how Exodus will take advantage of those opportunities. Tentative menu items include fried calamari; blackened redfish with shrimp; gumbo with shrimp, chicken, and beef sausage; and a burger topped with mushrooms and Swiss cheese. None of them would have been allowed at Genesis.

    Certain staples of the Genesis menu will remain. For example, Exodus will serve all of the sushi items that Genesis did. In addition, the old restaurant’s ribeye and beef short ribs will be available at Exodus.

    Jewish diners who prefer a kosher steak or kosher chicken will still be able to get it at Exodus for an additional fee. Goldstein says those items will be cooked in separate pans but served on the same plates and with the same utensils as non-kosher dishes. Since some kosher mindful Jewish people already follow those standards at other restaurants, Goldstein thinks they’ll appreciate being able to dine that way at Exodus.

    Kenny & Ziggy’s owner Ziggy Gruber has been an outspoken supporter of Genesis throughout its dispute with the HKA. He’s feeling optimistic about Exodus’ potential to connect with diners.

    “There is a lack of casual, family type of neighborhood joint over here,” Gruber says. “I don’t think that it’s a bad idea. On the weekends and at night, he’ll do well. You and I know Yiddishe people like to eat. If they like the food, they'll patronize his establishment.”

    Goldstein expects to be closed for a week or so while he makes some interior changes to distinguish Exodus from Genesis. Initially, the restaurant will operate with the same menu at lunch and dinner, and Goldstein plans to add weekend brunch once Exodus has established itself.

    “We’ll start with one menu, execute it, and go from there. We can’t all be 20 pages like Ziggy’s menu,” he says with a laugh.

    Located at 80 Braeswood Square, Exodus Bar and Grill will open at 11:30 am Monday-Friday; 4 pm on Saturday; and 1 pm on Sunday. Brunch hours will be announced in the future.

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