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    Big Changes at Underbelly

    The baller boards are back! Chris Shepherd's steakhouse to take over Underbelly

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 18, 2017 | 7:59 am

    Chris Shepherd and Kevin Floyd have major changes in store for their restaurants Underbelly and One Fifth, as well a new location that will give the duo a third outpost on lower Westheimer.

    The business partners announced Sunday night that Underbelly — the restaurant where Shepherd earned a James Beard Award for the dishes created with combination of rigorously sourced local ingredients, and inspiration taken from Houston's immigrant communities — will close in March 2018. It will transform into a new steakhouse called Georgia James (after Shepherd's parents) that takes many of its dishes and inspiration from One Fifth Steak.

    Rather than shutter Underbelly entirely, it will evolve into a new restaurant called UB Preserv, one that will occupy the space that formerly housed Poscol and the recently shuttered Jimmy Chew Asian Kitchen. (Details below.) As for One Fifth, Shepherd has decided that restaurant's third incarnation will take its inspiration from the Mediterranean, instead of serving seafood.

    These changes will begin happening relatively quickly. Underbelly will close in late March to allow for construction to begin on Georgia James, which will open in the fall. Construction has already begun on UB Preserv, with an opening scheduled for April. One Fifth Romance Languages will close on July 31, 2018 — as scheduled — and reopen September 1, 2018. Essentially, Shepherd and Floyd will open three new restaurants in the span of approximately six months.

    That One Fifth Steak would be revived in a dedicated space should come as no surprise. In an interview with CultureMap in March, Floyd indicated that One Fifth Steak had been successful enough financially to justify finding a permanent home for it.

    "If we find the right type of real estate to do a steakhouse, I think the numbers we’ve seen so far indicate that’s a good business model," Floyd said then. "I’m not going to go out and horseshoe a steakhouse into a building or a location that doesn’t need a steakhouse."

    The thought that Underbelly's current home at 1100 Westheimer would be an appropriate venue for a steakhouse makes a certain amount of sense. Earlier this year, Shepherd shed some of Underbelly's self-imposed limitations about local sourcing and whole animal butchery to move in a more seafood-oriented direction. He now admits to the Chronicle that the changes "didn't translate."

    Georgia James will bring back much of what made One Fifth Steak so successful: steaks cooked on cast iron, extravagant cold seafood towers, and, of course, the signature baller boards. Shepherd and Floyd will work with local design firm Collaborative Projects to renovate the space into "a sleek, modern restaurant with a lot of glass and steel," according to a press release. Hay Merchant will stay open for much of the construction and will begin serving lunch in April, 2018.

    As for UB Preserv, the restaurant that Shepherd has always described as "consistently inconsistently" will gain more than stability in this evolution. Relocating the restaurant will bring lots of changes to the concept, including the end of both the restrictions on the ingredients the restaurant will utilize and a menu that changes daily. In addition, UBP (as I'm hoping people will start calling it) will attempt to become more of a neighborhood restaurant by ditching lunch service and not accepting reservations.

    “This isn’t Underbelly 2.0,” said Shepherd in a statement. “This restaurant is my interpretation of how Houston is evolving. It’s becoming more global, with flavors and spices and products from around the world. Underbelly was founded on a very strict philosophy of what we could and could not serve. No more. Houston doesn’t limit itself, and neither do I.”

    The decision to change One Fifth's third concept from seafood to Mediterranean cuisine has roots both in the way that diners responded to Underbelly's seafood menu, and the recent closures of restaurants like Peska, SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, and Holley's. On a more positive side, Shepherd says he's always had an interest in the region's cuisine, stemming back to dining at a Lebanese steakhouse in his hometown of Tulsa, OK.

    “As a kid, it was normal to eat tabouli alongside a ribeye, and it wasn’t until later that I realized it was a result of the Lebanese population in Tulsa. Looking back, it was my first time to experience the merging of cultures,” Shepherd said.

    The merging of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine has become trendy nationally in the last few years. Modern Israeli restaurants like Zahav in Philadelphia and Shaya in New Orleans have earned wide acclaim, including James Beard Awards for their founding chefs, Michael Solomonov and Alon Shaya.

    Shepherd — channeling his inner Yotam Ottolenghi with a Houston-oriented version of those concepts — certainly sounds intriguing.

    Chris Shepherd and Kevin Floyd are expanding their business.

    Kevin Floyd Chris Shepherd Southern Smoke
    Photo by Michelle Watson/Catchlight Group
    Chris Shepherd and Kevin Floyd are expanding their business.
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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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