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    Italy in 10 Days

    36 hours in Rome: Crowds, Colosseum, Vatican visit and one great dinner

    Jane Howze
    Sep 25, 2014 | 11:55 am

    Last year, my husband and I flew around the world in 17 days, visiting Dubai, the Maldives, Phuket and ending with a flourish for New Year’s in Sydney, Australia. Not exactly relaxed, but working gals need to catch as catch can. If one can traverse the world in 17 days, Italy in 10 days should be a snap. It had been 30 years since I visited Venice, Rome and the Amalfi coast, and I had never visited Tuscany. So off we went.

    Buono Giorno Rome

    With only 36 hours in Rome, we had to pick our spots. Fortunately, our hotel was near the Spanish Steps and shopping heaven. Unfortunately, our hotel was what could best be called “tired.” Note to self: Be wary of hotel sites that trumpet "old world charm."

    Note to self: Be wary of hotel sites that trumpet "old world charm."

    I am not that picky about hotel rooms for business travel, but for vacations I want a big enough room so I don’t find myself wishing I were home instead. I want a room where my husband and I both can stand up at the same time. Sadly our hotel disappointed on both counts.

    Window shopping in Rome for the fashion minded is a feast for the eyes—the Italians know how to dress—but on closer examination there is little you can find that would not be cheaper in the United States. Moreover, with temperatures in the 80s, the heavy winter coats that are part of the fall line offered by the leading designers—well, we just didn’t feel the love or have the desire.

    Doing battle at the Colosseum

    Our first stop was the Colosseum, which has undergone extensive restoration since my last visit when it was covered with scaffolding and green, smog-protecting netting. Located in the center of Rome, the Colosseum is the ancient world's largest amphitheater and has been estimated to hold at least 50,000 people. And from the looks of the line to buy tickets (about $15 a piece) 50,000 people were there.

    Once in the Colosseum, we realized we had made a mistake by not booking a tour, of which there were hundreds. With no guide we only walked around and gazed at the admittedly beautiful site — that is until the heavens opened with a Texas style downpour, complete with thunder and lightning. We discovered that the Colosseum has a lot in common with modern stadiums. There just isn’t the capacity to provide cover from the elements for everyone. With that, off we went.

    Vatican, Inc.

    Vatican City, its own country, is about the size of Central Park. However those without citizenship or papal permission are limited to the Vatican Museum which comprises over 50 galleries containing the Roman Catholic Church's impressive art collection amassed over the centuries. Tours culminate at the Sistine Chapel with its famous ceiling painted by Michelangelo. Heeding the advice of friends we booked a tour in advance. There are so many tours from which to choose. Figuring this would be a once in a lifetime experience, we were drawn to the "VIP: tour that said “visit the Sistine Chapel alone, after the crowds have departed, with your own tour guide….”

    As we waited in front of the entrance with literally thousands of others for our 2 p.m. appointment, I felt a sense of “What are we getting ourselves into?” Our guide arrived holding a sign with our name and I breathed a sigh of relief. She quickly whisked us in the door and up an elevator to the first floor. She then suggested we buy postcards to send to our friends that would show the Vatican postmark.

    In nearly every room there was a retail area selling pictures of the Pope and other spiritual souvenirs.

    We then proceeded on the tour, which was the exact same tour that anyone else would have except that our guide was one of only 280 approved Vatican guides with a vast array of knowledge about the art, the Vatican’s history and a passion for the church — all things you want in a guide. One of the most important things we learned is that 25,000 tourists visit the Vatican Museum every day, and it felt like we were all crammed in the un-air conditioned corridors housed with admittedly breathtaking art. In nearly every room there was a retail area selling pictures of the Pope and other spiritual souvenirs.

    In short, the Vatican tour is a cash cow for the Church.

    When we finally arrived at the Sistine Chapel, we asked if we would be there alone and our guide replied that of course, she would leave us alone to spend as much time as we wanted. What she didn’t say was that there would be all of the other groups crammed in as well. For those of us who are claustrophobic, the beauty and spiritual wonder were hard to absorb in the jammed packed chapel. And those of us hoping for a moment of spiritual contemplation were jarred as people whispered (OK, talked) loudly, babies cried and a stern voice admonished everyone: “Silencio.”

    Our guide was to meet us outside the chapel, yet when we exited, all too quickly, she was nowhere to be found. We saw two exits, chose one and started walking. We never saw her again, though to be fair, she did text us asking where we were. How she thought she would find us in the throng of exiting masses I don't know. In retrospect I’m glad we saw the Vatican. I now have a desire to see a good documentary on it as well as the Coliseum in the comfort of my home without the crowds…and with A/C.

    Far from the crowd

    Maybe it was the jet lag, the crowds or that everyone was a tourist, but we were “Romed out" after only 24 hours. Fortunately, a client who works for an Italian company suggested his favorite restaurant. Da Felice, located in a suburban neighborhood, is way off the tourist path.

    We spent time walking the neighborhood, greeting the residents and envisioning the way locals live. There was an ambience and grace that we simply did not find among the crush of tourists. We were delighted that we were the only Americans in this family run restaurant with a daily changing menu. We enjoyed a sumptuous meal of Spaghetti Carbonara with a local brunello, polished off with the best tiramisu I ever had. All was right with the world.

    We left Rome determined to return — but next time not stay at the Spanish Steps and find a non-tourist experience.

    Crowds at the Vatican.

    Jane Howze trip to Rome September 2014 Room of maps
      
    Photo by Jane Howze
    Crowds at the Vatican.
    unspecified
    news/travel

    Where to travel right now

    Hill Country's historic spa reopens + 10 more Texas travel ideas for June

    Amber Heckler
    Jun 3, 2025 | 9:15 am
    Ottine Mineral Springs pool
    Photo by David Brendan Hall
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    Texas, it's time to make those summer vacation plans. June is shaping up to be a big month full of travel ideas, from fun wine tastings in Austin to a lively mural festival on the coast. There's also plenty to explore at home in Houston, such as a Japanese culture festival. Here are our top picks for summer travel events, hotel deals, and more in June.

    Austin

    The Loren Hotel is introducing two new wine programs this summer, open to all visitors. The "Boxed or Bougie" wine tastings will be offered on the first Saturday of each month, starting June 7, where guests can taste different wines to discover if fine wine is worth the price tag. On the second and third Saturdays of each month, the hotel will host "Varietal Wine Tastings" with different themes to spotlight wine regions, flavor profiles, and winemaking styles. Since June 14 is National Rosé Day, the first varietal tasting will focus on rosés. Both programs are free to the public and events will be held from 3-5 pm in the hotel lobby.

    Nearly 30 participating Texas Hill Country Wineries will hit the highway for an Austin Road Show at the Austin Central Library. Attendees will get to meet the owners, winemakers, and managers behind some of the Hill Country's most successful vineyards while tasting new wines and dining on charcuterie. Guests will also receive a take-home event wine glass. The Austin Road Show event will be held from 5:30-8 pm on Friday, June 27. Tickets are $60 per person.

    Central Texas

    Floating down the Comal, San Marcos, or Pedernales Rivers while enjoying the scenery and the cool water is a perfect way to spend a hot afternoon this summer. People travel to the Central Texas area every year to tube, and locals love it, as well. However, it's not without dangers, rules, and guidelines that should be observed. Before setting off down the river, check out CultureMap's five essential tips for tubing this summer.

    There's a unique new spa making a splash in the small town of Gonzales: Ottine Mineral Springs is finally celebrating its grand reopening after undergoing an extensive renovation. The 40-acre historic site was previously home to two private mineral-fed pools, but now the property is dotted with five new pools of varying adjustable temperatures, outdoor dining options, saunas, cold plunges, cabanas, fire pits, and much more. Day passes are $65 on weekdays and $75 on weekends.

    Fredericksburg's beautiful new Albert Hotel, whichopened in January, is adding a new barbecue restaurant inspired by the area's German heritage. Junebug's BBQ will open Friday, June 6, serving barbecue classics such as brisket, pork ribs, house-made sausages, and more. Junebug's BBQ will have limited hours from June 6-9, serving food from 2 pm until it’s sold out. Starting June 12, Junebug’s will operate regular hours from Thursdays through Sundays, from 11 am until sold out.

    Junebug's BBQJunebug's BBQ is ready to open at the Albert Hotel. junebugsbbq.com

    TV stars Chip and Joanna Gaines' signature restaurant Magnolia Table in Waco has introduced a new summer menu, featuring dishes like a brunch slider flight and a spicy peach fizz mocktail. The nearby Silos Baking Co. and Magnolia Press café have also added new items on their seasonal summer menus, including a peaches and cream cupcake and a ham and cheddar croissant sandwich. Reservations for Magnolia Table can be made via OpenTable.

    Houston

    Texas-based luxury bus service Vonlane will debut daily service between Dallas and The Woodlands on Friday, June 13. The new route will pick up travelers at Woodlands Waterway Marriott Hotel & Convention Center and drop off at Dallas' Doubletree Love Field hotel. The ride will take 3 hours and 15 minutes. This will be a second Houston-area destination for Dallas, as Vonlane already offers service to downtown Houston. Tickets can be booked online; fares are a flat rate of $125 for one-way trips with advance purchase. No taxes, baggage fees, or change fees apply.

    Tokyo X, one of Houston's premier celebrations of Japanese culture, is returning to NRG Center from June 14-15, promising celebrities, food, martial arts, anime, and more. Highlights of the festival include the Hot Import Nights Japanese car show series, a ramen showdown, and an anime convention featuring cosplay contests, panels, and voice actor appearances. Tickets can be purchased via Eventbrite. Saturday tickets are $36.22 per person, Sunday tickets are $ 30.48 per person, and two-day badges are $59.21 per person.

    Along the Gulf Coast

    The coastal city of Corpus Christi will celebrate its annual Mural Fest during the first week of June, showcasing its colorful large-scale murals in the Marina Arts District. During the Artist Week days from June 2-5, visitors can take self-guided tours to watch artists paint murals live throughout downtown, and collect "artographs." The festival will draw to a close on Saturday, June 7, with a block party on South Chaparral Street from 3-9 pm. More information about daily events during Mural Fest can be found via Visit Corpus Christi.

    Mural Fest in Corpus ChristiMural Fest will take place during the first week of June in downtown Corpus Christi. Photo courtesy of Visit Corpus Christi

    Across Dallas-Fort Worth

    A long anticipated Fort Worth hotel and restaurant have arrived: The Nobleman Fort Worth, Tapestry Collection by Hilton and the hotel’s in-house restaurant Duchess, have opened at 503 Bryan Ave., with fabulous accommodations and food from celebrity chef Casey Thompson. The property has 121 guest rooms and 32 extended-stay suites with kitchenettes. Hotel amenities include a pool, state-of-the-art fitness center, and 2,000 square feet of meeting and outdoor event spaces, along with terraces. Nightly rates begin at $162 in June.

    Dallas' Perot Museum of Nature and Science recently reopened the Moody Family Children's Museum, unveiling an extensively renovated 11,000-square-foot space sprawling with educational and science-centered activities. Among the new areas for children to explore are an immersive multi-sensory Imaginarium, an expanded toddler area, a hands-on maker area, an open-air outdoor space, and a fiber art playscape created by Toshiko MacAdam. Non-member general admission to the Perot Museum ($15 for children aged 2-12, and $25 for adults and children 13 and older) also includes access to the children's museum.

    summer vacationtraveltexasdallasfort worthhotelsfestivalsspashill countrywineries
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