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    it's fry time

    State of Grace owner's highly anticipated Heights Tex-Mex and seafood spots set opening date

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 15, 2018 | 4:46 pm

    Two of this year's most eagerly anticipated restaurants finally have their opening date. Superica and La Lucha, the new concepts from State of Grace owner Ford Fry, will debut on September 10 (Update: The opening has been rescheduled to September 17).

    Superica will be the fourth location of the Tex-Mex concept Fry launched in Atlanta in 2015. The menu runs the full gamut of Tex-Mex history, from vintage tacos and enchiladas to fajitas and mixta plates; interior Mexican dishes like menudo and pozole are also included. Kevin Maxey, a native Texan and Fry's "vice president of Tex-Mex," will lead the kitchen while former Bernadine's general manager Glenn Johnson will return to the space in the same role.

    Open for lunch, brunch, and dinner seven days a week, Superica also offers a full spectrum of wine, beer, and cocktails. Specifically, margaritas are available in "frozen, slushie, and shaken varieties," which should suit Houstonians just fine.

    Whereas Superica is tried-and-true, La Lucha is a new concept that takes its inspiration from Fry's childhood visits to the legendary San Jacinto Inn. The menu features burgers, fried chicken, and a wide range of seafood that includes raw, fried, and grilled oysters, peel-and-eat shrimp, and a decadent crawfish toast. As at Superica, beverage options will be extensive, with special attention paid to sparkling wines, craft beers, and agave spirits — apparently, mezcal pairs well with oysters.

    State of Grace executive chef Bobby Matos and general manager Matt Crawford will fill the same roles at La Lucha, which will be open for dinner during the week and brunch and dinner on the weekends.

    To convert the former Hunky Dory and Bernadine's spaces into La Lucha and Superica, Fry turned to Austin's Michael Hsu Office of Architecture, the company that originally designed the spaces. At Superica, that means channeling a little bit of Austin with vintage schoolhouse chairs, painted brick walls, and limestone accents. At La Lucha, the design will feature antique church pew banquettes, '70s-inspired elements, and an outdoor gaming area with lawn bowling.

    With a restaurant mini-empire in Atlanta and the success of State of Grace, Fry has certainly proved he knows how to create food people want to eat. Given Houstonians' seemingly limitless appetites for Tex-Mex and oysters, both Superica and La Lucha seem poised to continue that winning streak.

    Superica's mixed fajitas platter.

    Superica mixed fajitas
      
    Courtesy photo
    Superica's mixed fajitas platter.
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    a pizza the past

    New Houston pizzeria serves up slices and vintage vibes in the East End

    Eric Sandler
    May 6, 2025 | 4:00 pm
    Pinballz Pizzeria interior
    Courtesy of Pinballz Pizzeria
    A look inside Pinballz Pizzeria.

    A retro-styled pizzeria is slinging pies in the Second Ward. Pinballz Pizzeria pays homage to its neighborhood in its look and with select dishes on its menu.

    Pinballz Pizzeria interior
      

    Courtesy of Pinballz Pizzeria

    A look inside Pinballz Pizzeria.

    Located in the former Southside Flying Pizza space at 2240 Navigation, Pinballz is the latest project from chef and restaurateur John Avila. Best known locally for his modern general store Henderson & Kane, Avila is a native Houstonian who grew up in the neighborhood. He modeled the restaurant after Big Humphrey’s, which is described in press materials as “an East End original from the 1970s.”

    “We’re not just tossing dough — we’re celebrating Second Ward,” Avila said in a statement. “You’ll taste that in everything we do, from our chorizo and cheese stuffed-crust pizza to our fresh take of the ever-so-taboo ingredient — pineapple on our ‘Trompo Pizza.’ Every slice is a tribute to the people and flavors that made us.”

    Of course, the menu has traditional options as well. Diners will find familiar favorites such as meat lovers, a vegetarian pizza, and margherita. Those who want to build-their-own pizza will find 10 different meats, 16 vegetables, six cheeses, and three sauces — tomato, alfredo, and pesto.

    Non-pizza options includes wings, a meatball sub, a sausage and pepper hoagie, two pastas, spaghetti and fettuccine alfredo. Finish the meal with tres leches or cannoli.

    The restaurant stays true to its name with a John Wick pinball machine. Diners will also find plenty of TVs for watching sports.

    Quietly open for a few weeks, Pinballz will celebrate its grand opening this Saturday and Sunday, May 10 and 11, with $5 10-inch pies and free pasta with the purchase of a large pizzia.

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