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    Urban Gardens

    New gardens aim to bring more flavorful produce to top Houston restaurants — and the city's food deserts

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 5, 2014 | 3:04 pm

    Food deserts — low income neighbors without ready access to fresh food at grocery stores — are a sad reality throughout Houston. Recently, the City of Houston partnered with Pyburns Farm Fresh Foods to combat a desert in the South Union neighborhood by providing loan guarantees to establish a high-end grocery store.

    Now, a new campaign aims to broaden the fight with a new network of gardens.

    Known as Planted: Houston, the effort aims to establish a citywide network of urban gardens on city-owned land. Led by Edible Earth Resources, a company that has designed food-producing gardens for restaurants like Coltivare as well as private individuals, Planted has started an Indiegogo campaign to raise at least $35,000 by the end of September to establish new gardens in low income neighborhoods.

    "The more flavor a produce has the more nutrients . . . It's a pretty significant movement in the cancer community."

    "With Edible Earth we’ve doing food production systems in people’s yards. This will be a more commercial scale," gardener Scott Snodgrass tells CultureMap. The $35,000 goal will allow Planted to cultivate approximately one acre. Every additional $35,000 raised will be put towards the next series of plots. Restaurants, who will be the projects primary customers, are offering rewards like a Bloody Mary brunch at Beaver's for people who contribute $75 and dinner prepared by Adam Dorris of newly opened Pax Americana at the $275 level.

    Restaurants are eager to support the project for a number of reasons. First, Planted intends to grow produce with high nutrient density.

    "It was an easy, easy sell. I think that’s why they want to support us," Snodgrass says. "There’s a huge difference in produce from different farms and what their nutrients are. The more flavor a produce has the more nutrients . . . It's a pretty significant movement in the cancer community."

    In addition to more flavorful produce, Planted also hopes to offer restaurants a more consistent supply than some of the farms they currently buy from. "The chefs understand we have different seasons. What they don’t understand is why a farmer is out of a certain crop when he shouldn’t be," Snodgrass explains.

    Asked about his decision to enlist Planted to grow specific vegetables for his restaurant, Oxheart chef Justin Yu says, "I'm just trying to be the best I can be, and I'm gonna be out here every day working hard at that."

    City of Houston Steps In

    The City of Houston is supporting the project in order to further its goal of fighting food deserts. In exchange for being about to lease the land for $1 per year, Planted has agreed to donate 10 percent of all food grown to the neighborhood where the garden is. Additionally, Snodgrass says they plan to work with convenience stores in the area to sell produce to neighborhood residents at reduced rates. Area residents will also be able to work on the farms to earn produce.

    "We want to give access to people to good food — not just people who can afford it at a farmers market," Snodgrass adds.

    While the project's initial focus is on selling produce to restaurants, a subscription service for individuals will further enhance its mission with a plan that mimics Toms Shoes. "If a person purchases a subscription from us, they’ll get food every week. We’ll match that and donate the same amount of food every week to a family in need," Snodgrass says.

    Want to be one of the first subscribers? A 10-week, fall season subscription requires a donation of $950 for 10 to 25 pounds of produce per week. A year-long subscription requires a $3,500 donation.

    As for why anyone would donate to a for profit business, Snodgrass cites the ethos of social entrepreneurship.

    "We knew going into it that we were asking people to give us money to start a business," he says. "We know that’s unusual. We’ve tried to design a business where people who want to support it by purchasing things can know that a portion of the money they spend with us is going to a social need."

    To contribute at a slightly lower level, follow Planted on Twitter. They're rolling out a series of fundraising events at places like Beaver's, Coltivare and Lillo and Ella where a portion of proceeds from drink sales will go towards the goal.

    Attendees at the kickoff party included Edible Earth customer William Burch, left, as well as chefs like Erin Smith, Philippe Gaston and Sharon Gofreed, who will be Planted customers.

    Planted Houston kickoff party
    Photo courtesy of Planted
    Attendees at the kickoff party included Edible Earth customer William Burch, left, as well as chefs like Erin Smith, Philippe Gaston and Sharon Gofreed, who will be Planted customers.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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