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    what' up with Clark Cooper

    Brasserie 19 owners relocate pop-up burger joint to Rice Village, plot new wine bar

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 27, 2020 | 11:50 am

    Clark Cooper Concepts, the Houston restaurant group behind establishments such as Brasserie 19 and Coppa Osteria, has reshuffled its remaining restaurant lineup. Beginning last week, it reopened The Dunlavy for breakfast and lunch and relocated its Daddy’s Burgers pop-up to the former home of Punk’s Simple Southern Food in Rice Village.

    Co-owner Grant Cooper tells CultureMap that Punk’s has come to the end of its run as its original location next to Coppa, but the company plans to open a more stripped-down version focused on the restaurant’s signature fried chicken in a new location. Daddy’s Burgers will operate in Rice Village for now — possibly until the end of 2020 — at which point it will give way to a new, unnamed wine bar and restaurant that the company is still developing.

    That’s a lot to take in. Let’s break it down a little further.

    Clark Cooper launched Daddy’s Burgers in June at The Dunlavy, its restaurant and event space along Buffalo Bayou. The concept, built around the burgers Cooper serves at home, features burgers made with grass-fed beef patties, paired with tater tots, onion rings, milkshakes, cold beer, cocktails, and more. When Dunlavy regulars requested the restaurant resume serving its familiar menu of breakfast and lunch dishes, the company decided to relocate Daddy’s Burgers to Rice Village. Moving puts the burger restaurant in a more family-friendly area and creates synergy with Coppa, Cooper notes.

    With the move, the Daddy’s Burgers menu has added some lighter options. The “...but Mama says” section includes a raw bar with oysters and shrimp, a crab Louie salad, shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, and salads. Asked about operating a burger restaurant so close to two national heavyweights in Shake Shack and Hopdoddy, Cooper replies that he isn’t concerned.

    “A burger’s a burger, but each has their own styles, vibe, and mojo. Shake Shack is different than Hopdoddy, and Daddy’s Burgers is different from both of them,” he says.

    As for Punk’s, Cooper says they plan to relaunch the Southern-inspired restaurant with a new version that’s more focused on its popular fried chicken, which he describes as Punk’s Chicken Shack. “When things calm down, we’ll find a home for Punk’s,” Cooper says.

    Daddy’s Burgers will wind down around the end of 2020 to allow the space to transition into a new wine bar and restaurant that will also feature a market for high-end food items and grab-and-go meals. While it doesn’t have a name yet, Cooper says the menu is about 65-percent ready.

    ‘We’ll do a lot of shareable plates, things on Lazy Susans, Mediterranean-driven,” he says. “It will be California-inspired like a lot of our things. At the end of the day, it will be a neighborhood wine bar-restaurant with a market in it as well.”

    Spare Cooper all the questions about whether this new concept is “Ibiza 2.0.” He and chef Charles Clark may be opening a “Mediterranean-driven,” wine-fueled new restaurant, but it will be distinct from their celebrated concept that ended its 20-year run in February.

    “I don’t want people to think it’s Ibiza, because it’s not,” he says. “It’s going to have a totally different look, a different menu. It’s not Ibiza 2.0.”

    Meanwhile, all of the company’s other plans for new concepts, including the healthy-eating restaurant Satisfy, are on-hold until restaurant operations return to a more normal footing.

    “There’s really no reason I want to put the effort into launching a new restaurant [right now]. It’s hard enough at 100-percent,” Cooper says. “When you’ve got these unknowns, I feel like I don’t know what’s going to happen in the fall.”

    Charles Clark and Grant Cooper.

    Charles Clark Grant Cooper Clark Cooper Concepts
    Photo by LeZu Photography
    Charles Clark and Grant Cooper.
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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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