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    Izakaya sets opening

    Sneak peek: Eagerly anticipated Midtown restaurant sets opening date and reveals menu

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 21, 2015 | 10:56 am

    One of Houston's most eagerly anticipated restaurants has finally set an opening date.

    Izakaya, the "drinks-first" concept from Kata Robata owners The Azuma Group, is now accepting reservations for August 1, according to a statement released Monday. The restaurant will hold a series of invite-only friends and families dinners this week, but could open its doors to the public as soon as Thursday — or, depending on how smoothly the preview runs, could go dark over the weekend and begin accepting walk-in diners next week.

    The menu has six sections: Raw Stuff, Greenery, Starting Line, From the Grill, Nom Nom Nom and Game Over.

    The former Farrago's space has been transformed by Schooley Design into a two-room concept. Up front, the lounge contains the bar, raw bar and a mix of booth and table seating. A tall, central bar showcases Izakaya's sake and spirits selection. Large, tattoo-inspired murals dominate the main dining room, which also features patio seating in an interior courtyard that's shared with neighbors like Fluff Bake Bar and Russo's New York Pizzeria.

    Co-executive chefs Jean-Philippe Gaston (known as Philippe) and Manabu Horiuchi (known as Hori) developed the menu, which takes its inspiration from Asian street food and is built around the popular shareable plates trend. Gaston will be at Izakaya, while Hori-san will remain at Kata Robata full-time. The menu has six sections: Raw Stuff, Greenery, Starting Line, From the Grill, Nom Nom Nom and Game Over.

    Raw items skip traditional sushi in favor of tartares, ceviches and crudos, which recalls the sort of work Gaston did as the chef at Cove Cold Bar. One dish consists of a riff on the Mexican seafood cocktail vuelve a la vida that blends scallop, shrimp, octopus, red onion, garlic, avocado, yuzu hot sauce and crushed sea salt; prices for this section of the menu range from $12 to 23.

    Grilled items include chicken skin, house-made venison sausage, octopus and street corn with bonito flakes ($5 to 14); authentic Japanese wagyu beef is $15 per ounce (min 4-ounces).

    The Nom Nom Nom section includes traditional fare like shumai and a katsu pork sandwich, as well as a chicken fried steak with kimchi-braised collard greens and a Texas quail Scotch egg ($8 to 30). Game Over offers a selection of rice and noodle dishes include two soba dishes, a daily rice bowl and the omu rice, which is wrapped in an egg omelette ($11 to 18).

    Promising concept

    One CultureMap reader who scored a coveted seat at Monday night's invite-only friends and family preview called the Peruvian ceviche "incredible" and the Scotch egg "awesome." Asked to sum up the experience, our mystery diner reports that Izakaya is a "very promising concept." As seen above, the reader's pictures provide a sneak peek inside the space.

    One CultureMap reader who scored a coveted seat at Monday night's invite-only friends and family preview called the Peruvian ceviche "incredible" and the Scotch egg "awesome."

    Izakaya's cocktail program, which has been developed by San Francisco-based consultants Clare Sprouse and Chad Arnholt, takes its inspiration from drinks they experienced during a three-week trip to Japan. The cocktails will incorporate seasonal produce, take advantage of Japanese fermentation and preservation techniques and are designed to be delivered quickly. The initial menu of 16 selections includes the "Good Morning" (shochu, maknut cream soda), a Midori-inspired cocktail of melon, sake, gin, citrus and milk and, of course, a simple blend of Topo Chico and Hokushu 12-year old Japanese whisky.

    Kata Robata general manager Blake Lewis has brought his expertise as a certified sake sommelier to that aspect of Izakaya's offerings, which will also include Korean shochu. Local sommelier Antonio Gianola has selected the restaurant's wine list with an emphasis on white, rose and sparkling varietals. Expect 50 to 70 bottles, with at least a dozen by-the-glass options.

    Taken together, Izakaya offers an exciting new addition to a section of Midtown that's seen a host of promising new arrivals like cocktail bar Spare Key, tapas restaurant Oporto Fooding House & Wine and sweets shop Fluff Bake Bar. While the area remains Houston's most profitable bar district, newcomers like Izakaya are a sign that even Midtown can grow up a bit.

    Scotch egg and cocktails.

    Izakaya Scotch egg
      
    Photo by a CultureMap reader
    Scotch egg and cocktails.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 459 and 460

    Meet the men behind Houston's most under-the-radar Italian restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 18, 2025 | 5:00 pm
    Fernando Rios Mike Sammons Mimo
    Courtesy of Mimo
    Chef Fernando Rios and sommelier Mike Sammons are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” sommelier Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Mimo, their Italian restaurant in the East End. The duo, whose history goes back to when they worked together at iconic Houston fine dining restaurant Da Marco, opened Mimo in 2023.



    The conversation begins with Rios explaining the progression of a career that took him from Backstreet Cafe to Da Marco to Weights + Measures, where he worked as the chef de cuisine while Sammons was a partner who oversaw the beverage program. Since they both live in the East End, they saw an opportunity to team up by claiming the former Kanomwan space on Telephone Rd.

    They discuss several aspects of the restaurant’s business, including Rios’ changes to the menu, the evolution of Mimo’s wine list, and how its been received by residents of the East End. A digression about Da Marco prompts Sandler to ask about its chef-owner Marco Wiles, who generally stays out of the media spotlight. Sammons shares that Wiles is the only chef or restaurateur who makes him nervous when he dines at Mimo.

    “He’s really not forgiving about things. This is very consistent with the Italian way of looking at things — there’s a right way to do things and that’s it. If it isn’t done that way, it’s wrong. A lot of my other mentors and friends can be more forgiving, but the standards Marco has kept for years has motivated me,” Sammons says.

    “He’s still the same way,” Rios adds. “That was insane to me. I thought, you get older, you’d be more relaxed, but the way he looks at you makes you nervous. Working in the kitchen, there was times he’d throw all my stuff away and say ‘start over.’”

    Was he right, Sandler asks.

    “Absolutely, yes. He was right all the time. I just think he was one of the best to do it,” Rios affirms.

    Listen to the full interview to hear both men discuss the one thing they’re most proud of about Mimo. They also discuss their plans for the future.



    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Houston’s finalists in this year’s James Beard Awards, the owners of Jūn adding a daytime concept called Third Place, and Aaron Bludorn promoting chef Allie Pena to be Bludorn’s new executive chef.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson visit Camaraderie, chef Shawn Gawle’s new restaurant in the Heights. They share their thoughts on the restaurant’s prix fixe menu, as well as its decor and beverage offerings.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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