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    What's Eric Eating Episode 56

    Houston barbecue couple reveal hot bakery plans, plus major Montrose food news

    CultureMap Staff
    Jun 21, 2018 | 11:35 am

    On this week's episode of What's Eric Eating, Veronica and John Avila join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss their three concepts: barbecue restaurant El Burro & The Bull, modern general store Henderson & Kane, and upcoming bakery Sweet Mary's.

    The conversation begins with John Avila describing his roots in the restuarant business, which go back to sweeping the floors at his grandparents' barbecue restaurant in Bryan, Texas. Ultimately, Avila made his way to Austin where he worked for Melissa Brinckmann at Cake and Spoon before spending time at Franklin Barbecue. He met Veronica in Houston shortly before moving to Brooklyn to open restaurants there. After returning home, he and Veronica launched El Burro & the Bull, which serves both barbecue and Mexican-inspired dishes at the Conservatory food hall in downtown Houston. The couple shares the various influences that shaped the restaurant's menu, as well as the steps they're currently taking to open a brick and mortar version of the restaurant.

    From there, they move on to Henderson & Kane, the modern general store they just opened in the Old Sixth Ward that will celebrate its official grand opening on July 4. The new business provides another outlet for the Avila's barbecue and sells a range of retails items including eggs and produce from Texas farms, wine and beer, and crafts. Veteran barista Jeremy Masters oversees H&K's coffee program. So far, the shop is off to a strong start, drawing people from its neighborhood to visit multiple times per week and expanding its offerings to include vegan food items.

    Although the couple has spent over a year working on Sweet Mary's, the podcast is their first time discussing it publicly. Inspired by the bakeries that John Avila patronized while growing up in Houston's East End, Sweet Mary's will offer a full range of pastries, breads, and sweets. Veronica Avila has created the design, which will utilize shipping contains and be located on the esplanade directly across from The Original Ninfa's on Navigation. While all of the couple's projects reflect elements of their heritage, Sweet Mary's is particularly special.

    "It's a cultural thing. A lot of us grew up with it. An opportunity to have those things again, to eat those things again, to show up every weekend, we were just waiting for the opportunity to do this kind of thing," John Avila says. "It's near and dear to our heart, because it's been our way of life our whole childhood to go to these places and grab stuff. We want to be able to put it right in the middle of Navigation."

    Prior to the Avilas joining the show, Sandler and co-host Nathan Ketcham discuss the news of the week. The segment begins with Ketcham recounting the various ways Anthony Bourdain shaped his career in the restaurant industry and the loss he feels since Bourdain's recent death by suicide. Sandler notes that Bourdain's death has prompted some important conversations in the restaurant community, including via writer Kat Kinsman's group Chefs With Issues, which is devoted to helping people in the restaurant community who are struggling with mental health issues, and David Chang, who spoke movingly about his battle with depression on a recent episode of his podcast.

    The rest of the segment is considerably lighter, with the duo sharing some thoughts on Goodnight Hospitality's plans to open three new concepts in Montrose and commenting on the recent openings of Pitch 25, Brian Ching's soccer bar and beer garden that's been a smash hit in EaDo, and Calle Onze, the new Mexican-inspired restaurant from the owners of Edison & Patton. In the restaurants of the week segment, Sandler and Ketcham recount their recent meals at Robard's Steakhouse in the Woodlands, which has some new energy since the arrival of chef David Morris, and Dream Tacos TX, the new concept from Jenni's Noodle House owners Jenni and Scott Tranweaver.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

    Anyone in crisis, or who knows someone in crisis, please call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-TALK (8255) or contact the Crisis Text Line by texting TALK to 741-741.

    John and Veronica Avila are this week's guests on What's Eric Eating.

    John and Veronica Avila
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    John and Veronica Avila are this week's guests on What's Eric Eating.
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    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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