NYT loves HOU

Eclectic EaDo eatery makes New York Times Best Bakeries list

Koffeteria chef-owner Vanarin Kuch.

Koffeteria Facebook

The New York Times has once again shined its spotlight on Houston’s culinary scene. It included Koffeteria, a bakery in EaDo, on its new list of the 22 of the Best Bakeries Across the U.S. Right Now.

Interim food critic Priya Krishna hails Koffeteria for pastry chef-owner Vanarin Kuch’s creative fare that includes dishes such as beef pho kolaches, Chinese sausage breakfast tacos, and butter mochi.

“Some of Mr. Kuch’s offerings are rooted in his Cambodian American identity — he makes cornbread with the coconutty, scallion-forward flavors of Cambodian street corn — while others are odes to Houston’s multicultural makeup. But most of the fun of Koffeteria is having no idea what Mr. Kuch will do next, and eagerly awaiting his next innovation,” Krishna writes.

Open since 2019, Koffeteria has been riding high this year. It earned a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Outstanding Bakery and a CultureMap Houston Tastemaker Award for Pastry Chef of the Year.

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The Times also recognized Austin’s Comadre Panadería. Krishna praises pastry chef Mariela Camacho’s pastries that include conchas and her signature pink cake. “Despite their saccharine appearances, not one of the desserts is overly cloying, and even the coffee drinks (Texas pecan horchata! Cranberry vanilla agua fresca!) strike the playful tone of the pastries,” she writes.

Like Koffeteria, Comadre Panadería has also been widely recognized. Comacho earned a 2024 James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker. She also won Pastry Chef of the Year in the 2023 CultureMap Austin Tastemaker Awards.

Comadre Panadería and Koffeteria are the only Texas establishments to make the Times’ list. Only California and New York City, which each have three representatives, earn more recognition.

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From morocco to Memorial

Growing Houston Mediterranean restaurant picks Memorial for 3rd location

Courtesy of Zoa Eateries

A rendering previews the Memorial location of Zoa Eateries.

A casual, Houston-based Mediterranean restaurant is coming to Memorial. Zoa Eateries will open a new location this summer at 9807 Katy Fwy.

Opened in 2020 as Zoa Moroccan Kitchen, chef-owner Youssef Nafaa has rebranded the concept. Along with the new name, the fast casual restaurant will roll out a new menu with simplified sandwich offerings, more grab-and-go options, and new breakfast items.

Nafaa, the owner of concepts such as Mia Bella Trattoria, Coco Crepes & Coffee, and Mi Luna Tapas Restaurant & Bar, is working with his sons Zack, Omar, and Adam — the brand’s namesakes — on the restaurant. It currently has locations in Greenway Plaza and near the intersection of Shepherd Dr. and Washington Ave.

"Memorial means a lot to our family,” Adam Nafaa said in a statement. “I grew up in the area and attended Spring Branch ISD schools, including Memorial High School. Bringing it to the neighborhood I grew up in feels personal. I remember hanging out at Southwells after school, which, for those who know that location, was an institution, excited to be entering a market that influenced the formative years of my own growth.”

While the menu is being refreshed, it still revolves around build-your-own bowls and sandwiches made with braised beef tagine, roasted lamb meshwi, and beef kefta. Sandwiches are served on house made bread. Bowls can be enhanced with 20 toppings and nine sauces, including red and green harissa.

The restaurant itself is approximately 1,800 square feet and will offer indoor seating for 42 along with an outdoor patio. It will be open daily from 8 am until 10 pm.

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