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    'Tis the season

    10 amazing soft-shell crab dishes to try right now at Houston restaurants

    Marcy de Luna
    Jun 13, 2017 | 1:00 pm

    If you’ve ever cracked the protective hard shell of a blue crab, working overtime to get a glorious bite of tender meat, you know the task isn’t easy. So, from around May through September, when crabs shed their tough exteriors making them entirely edible, and with ease, we get positively giddy. And so do chefs around town who are busily adding them to menus.

     

    From grilled to traditional deep-fried, here are 10 delicious soft-shell crab dishes to check out now — while they last.

     

     Granchio Ripieno at Potente
    Sink your teeth into a crispy crab stuffed with jumbo lump crab and presented with couscous and tomatoes at downtown Italian eatery Potente. A layer of tangy salsa verge aioli on the bottom of the plate adds the finishing touch. ($29)
     1515 Texas Ave.; 713-237-1515

     

     Fried at Riel
    At Riel restaurant in Montrose, tempura-fried crab is joined by sauteed ong choy (water spinach) and an over-the-top house-made tamarind vinaigrette, a deliciously-secret blend of more than 30 ingredients. ($25)
     1927 Fairview St.; 832-831-9109
     
     Grilled at Coltivare
    From now through the end of the month, Coltivare in the Heights is home to a delectable grilled crab creation. It's served with fennel, tomato, shiitake mushroom, and a hit of vermouth. ($28)
     3320 White Oak Dr.; 713-637-4095
     
     Baked at Prego
    Score a duo of ​romano-cornmeal crusted crabs at Rice Village’s Prego. The briny beauties, pan-sauteed and then baked to perfection, are topped with jumbo lump crab, heirloom tomatoes, grilled asparagus, and a white wine sauce. A pillowy potato-truffle ravioli comes on the side. ($40)
     2520 Amherst St.; 713-529-2420

     

     Karaage at Kata Robata
    Dig into the seafood delicacy at Upper Kirby’s Kata Robata. Here, it’s lightly fried and accompanied by tempura peppers, plus a side of spicy Singapore sauce for your dipping pleasure. ($18)
     3600 Kirby Dr.; 713-526-8858
     
     Build-your-own taco at Pico’s
    Get your fill of the summer staple at Pico’s restaurant, where the kitchen serves up your choice of two or three jumbo fried crustaceans, along with Mexican rice and habanero-chipotle salsa. Wrap it all up in a tortilla for an out-of-this-world bite. ($29 for two; $39 for three)
     3601 Kirby Dr.; 832-831-9940
     
     Fried at Underbelly
    The mouthwatering dish at Montrose’s Underbelly boasts fried soft-shell crab, corn maque choux (a medley of corn, green bell pepper, onion, celery, and tomato), and a green tomato relish. Get yours now: This dish leaves the menu at the end of the month. ($24)
     1100 Westheimer Rd.; 713-528-9800
     
     Salad at Backstreet Cafe
    Cozy River Oaks eatery Backstreet Cafe offers up a seasonal salad featuring the tender delicacy. It's perched atop a colorful mound of tomatoes and blistered corn for a delicious summer treat. ($15)
     1103 S Shepherd Dr.; 713-521-2239

     

     Pakora at Kiran’s
    The soft-shell crab at upscale Indian eatery Kiran’s is coated in cornmeal and rice flour, seasoned with Indian spices, and fried until golden brown. It’s complemented by fried green tomatoes, ginger remoulade, and a green salad topped with peach-jalapeño chutney. ($22)
     2925 Richmond Ave.; 713-960-8472
     
     Fried at Yauatcha
    Upscale Chinese dim sum teahouse and patisserie Yauatcha adds almonds and a spicy touch of chili oil to its crispy soft-shell crab, available year-round at the Galleria hotspot. ($15)
     5045 Westheimer Rd.; 713-357-7588

     

    At Riel, tempura-fried crab is joined by sauteed ong choy and a tamarind vinaigrette.

    Houston, soft shell crab dishes, June 2017, Riel
      
    Courtesy photo
    At Riel, tempura-fried crab is joined by sauteed ong choy and a tamarind vinaigrette.
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    welcome to paradise

    Veteran Houston bartender shakes up the Heights with new tropical bar

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 8, 2025 | 1:12 pm
    Berwick's Birds of Paradise bar exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Berwick's Birds of Paradise opened on July 4.

    The woman behind your favorite bartender’s favorite bar has quietly opened a new cocktail spot in the Heights. Called Berwick’s Birds of Paradise, it’s the latest project from Double Trouble owner Robin Berwick.

    Berwick tells CultureMap that she began looking for a new project about a year ago. Double Trouble, a coffee and cocktail bar that opened in late 2011, no longer required her full attention. She found an ideal space with the former La Coqueta at 2020 Studewood Street, a standalone building in a prime area of the Heights. Similar to Double Trouble, Berwick took inspiration from tropical destinations for BBOP's (pronounced “be bop”) drinks and design — with some additional flair from the only kind of bar she’s never worked at.

    “I might be embarrassed if you print this, but it’s the truth. I have bartended in just about every category of bar: restaurant bar, nightclub, dance club, strip club, dive bar, and Anvil and Poison Girl, the cocktail bars that people knew me from before Double Trouble,” she says.

    “The only place I didn’t work that I wanted to was a resort hotel bar. I never want to be responsible for running a hotel, but I wanted to open a bar that felt like it was once attached to a hotel.”

    Patrons will notice a screen printed portrait of a woman hanging on one of the bar’s walls. Berwick has decided that it depicts the mythical owner of the non-existent hotel that BBOP is attached to.

    “I don’t know her name, but she’s a little spooky and she’s blue. I just look at her and ask her what would she do,” Berwick says.

    Berwick worked with Jarred Pruitt and Eli Ashby at Houston builder Pruitt Structures to renovate the space with everything from new plumbing and HVAC systems to a vintage-inspired tile floor and an all-new ceiling treatment. The costs ran a little higher than expected, but Berwick cites her “fantastic investors” who raised the money required to build the bar she envisioned.

     Berwick's Birds of Paradise bar interior The building received a comprehensive renovation to become Berwick's Birds of Paraidse.Photo by Eric Sandler

    The cocktail menu takes a similarly tropical (not to be confused with tiki) theme. For example, the bar’s frozen cocktail is called La Bruha, after a nickname Berwick received from the tradesmen who helped renovate the bar. “It’s a riff on an El Diablo,” she explains, “Tequila, fresh lime juice, spicy ginger beer, habanero tincture, topped with a layer of elderberry liqueur. The ginger surprises people. It’s got a little punch to it.”

    Similarly, the Crocodile Tears Martini gets a little island flavor courtesy of Strange Water, a coconut water created by former Houstonian Yael Vengroff, and Grey Goose Citra vodka. “Everybody’s been saying it’s ‘dangerously drinkable,’” Berwick adds.

    BBOP’s tidy food menu is overseen by veteran Houston chef Jacob Pate, whose resume includes Coltivare, Good Dog Houston, and the recently-closed Savoir. Current offerings include chicken wings, a smash burger, and a Bikini Sandwich — similar to a Cubano, Pate gives the traditional Catalan-inspired pressed ham and cheese sandwich a Houston twist courtesy of muffaletta compound butter and tomato condiment.

    “On the horizon is a house made sausage dog that I’m excited about,” Pate writes in an email. “At Savoir, we had some fun butchery projects that I would like to build upon where it makes sense. Beyond that, the first priority is figuring out how it all fits in our small kitchen and having fun.”

    In addition to food and drinks, Berwick is working with Heights cigar bar Nice Ash to stock a humidor for BBOP. Patrons will be able to smoke a cigar on the bar’s patio. Because people will be smoking (among other reasons), BBOP is strictly 21-plus.

    The bar opened quietly on July 4. So far, its customers has been a mix of curious neighbors, Double Trouble regulars, and Berwick’s friends in the service industry. After spending so much time on renovations, she says she’s happy to focus on operating her bar.

    “I had been used to this high stress level, waiting for the bottom to drop out [during the renovations],” she says. “When the first guests came in, I relaxed. We know how to make drinks.”

    Currently, the bar is open Wednesday-Sunday from 4pm - midnight. Days of service and hours of operation will expand once additional employees have been hired.

    Berwick's Birds of Paradise bar exterior
      
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Berwick's Birds of Paradise opened on July 4.
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