What's Eric Eating Episode 52

Star Houston chef dishes on his exciting summer opening and foodie fundraiser

On this week's episode of What's Eric Eating, Agricole Hospitality chef-owner Ryan Pera joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss both the current state of his Heights-based group as well as his involvement in the upcoming Houston’s Taste of the Nation for No Kid Hungry fundraiser. Pera serves as the culinary chair for the event that's happening Tuesday, May 22 at Silver Street Studios.

Taste of the Nation is part of a national effort that unites chefs to combat childhood hunger. The event will feature over 40 of the city's top restaurants serving bites and libations; participants include BCN Taste & Tradition, Louie Mueller Barbecue, UB Preserv, and Indianola, Agricole's new restaurant that will open in EaDo later this summer. The company recently announced that Paul Lewis (Cullen's, Osteria Mazzantini) will serve as Indianola's executive chef. As Pera explains, Lewis joining Agricole constitutes a reunion for the chefs.

"When I moved to Houston in 2003, the first job I had was chef de cuisine at the Four Seasons. Paul was working there. Paul was the sous chef and I was the chef de cuisine. We got along amazing," Pera says. "I respect him to no end. When we decided to go [forward] on the project, he was the first person I thought of, and he was the first person we reached out to. Was lucky he was in a place where he could take the job."

Prior to Pera joining the show, L'Olivier owner Mary Clarkson joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Anthony Calleo's plans after departing Cherry Pie Hospitality, the new Whole Foods Market 365 comes to Houston this summer, and the sort of restaurants that might be a fit for a new space in the Heights. In the restaurants of the week segment, the two share their recent dining experiences at UB Preserv, Poitín, and State of Grace.

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Pera is serving as this year's culinary chair for Taste of the Nation.

No Kid Hungry Taste of the Nation Coltivare Ryan Pera Maricelo Garica

Photo by Quy Tran

Pera is serving as this year's culinary chair for Taste of the Nation.

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Mutiny on the White Oak

Staple Heights wine bar and restaurant will shutter after 6 years

Photo by Jenn Duncan

Mutiny will close on January 31.

A wine bar and restaurant in the Heights is coming to the end of a six-year run. Mutiny in the Heights will close on January 31.

In an email to the restaurant’s supporters, co-owner Mark Ellenberger writes that rising costs for ingredients, insurance, and labor contributed to the decision to close Mutiny. “The closing is driven by increased costs and the traffic just did not sustain the operation,” he writes in response to CultureMap’s request for comment about the decision.

He also thanked Mutiny’s customers for their support. “You weren’t just customers. You were the familiar faces who stopped in after work, the couples who always sat at the same table, the friends who brought visiting family ‘to their spot.’ You celebrated birthdays here, toasted milestones, celebrated wedding receptions, had first dates, and made this place feel alive.”

Ellenberg and his wife Emily Trout opened Mutiny Wine Room in January 2020 as a companion to Kagan Cellars, their award-winning winery. It featured selection from boutique wineries that produced between 500 and 5,000 cases per year. Patrons could sample more than 30 by-the-glass options along with an extensive selection of bottles.

Food has always been part of Mutiny’s offerings. Originally, the restaurant served California cuisine, but last year it changed its name to Mutiny in the Heights and adopted a more family-friendly menu that includes a burger, meatballs, and steak frites.

Between now and January 31, Ellenberger writes that Mutiny will run specials for up to 50-percent off wines for both dine-in and to-go. Details about an anniversary/farewell on January 22 will be shared on social media.

As for the future, Ellenberger explains that he’ll continue to focus on Kagan Cellars, including launching a wine club. “We will also keep our hand in the hospitality sector through our investment in Stella Kenwood in Sonoma, CA.”

Elsewhere in the Heights, The Kid, a craft beer and burger concept from the owners of The Flying Saucer, quietly closed at the end of the year, Chron reports. Earlier this week, Rocket Farm Restaurants announced it will replace it’s Tex-Mex restaurant Superica with a casual steakhouse called Star Rover.

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