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    travel the spice route

    Houston chef couple's new Portuguese-Indian canteen pours into The Heights

    Eric Sandler
    May 13, 2021 | 1:15 pm

    One of this year's most eagerly anticipated restaurants has opened in The Heights. Da Gama Canteen has begun a quiet soft opening ahead of an official opening on Saturday, May 15.

    Named for Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama, the restaurant takes inspiration rom the Portuguese-Indian territories of Goa, East Africa, and Portugal. The latest project from chefs Shiva and Rick Di Virgilio, the couple behind popular Midtown restaurant Oporto, Da Gama represents an evolution of The Queen Vic, their Anglo-Indian restaurant that closed in 2018.

    "The soul of the restaurant reflects the background and experiences of Shiva and myself. A love story that’s evolved into 15 years of cooking and serving Houston,” Rick Di Virgilio said in a statement. “At this stage in our story we wanted to create a unique community space, where we could continue to offer Houstonians a taste of our heritage, nutritious food, and a fun place to enjoy organic wine and creative cocktails.”

    The menu offers a wide array of tapas-style small plates divided into four sections: do Quinta (vegetables), do Mar (seafood), do Carne (meat), and Pao (breads). Most are priced between $12 and $18 with only two — Goan fish curry with halibut and shrimp ($22) and Mishkaki (grilled picanha beef skewers, $24) — priced over $20.

    Highlights from the soft opening menu include three chili paneer, crab pani puri, lamb rib mattar (grilled lamb ribs served with canteen curry and green peas), and prawn ambot tik (Gulf shrimp in tamarind curry). Bullet naan is available with an optional bacon topping, which seems poised to become a customer favorite.

    Beverage options include a tidy selection of cocktails, both spirited and non-alcoholic, as well as a more expansive selection of wines by-the-glass or bottle and beer.

    Da Gama occupies a prime location at The M-K-T, the mixed-use development on N. Shepherd Drive just north of I-10. Centrally located in the project's Building 5, the restaurant's patio looks onto the Heights Hike and Bike Trail.

    Eventually, the restaurant will operate a trail-facing window that will serve drinks such as chai, organic coffee and tea, and natural wine along with snacks such as Tandoori rolls, samosa chaat, and curry bowls. The window, along with brunch and lunch service, will debut in the coming weeks. For now, the restaurant is open for dinner Monday - Saturday from 5 to 10 pm.

    M-K-T will continue to see a rush of new openings throughout the coming months. The development recently welcomed Rakkan Ramen, a LA-based restaurant known for its vegan broth, with Homestead, a breakfast and lunch concept, slated to follow. Other eateries slated for the property include Blue Sushi Sake Grill, a lively sushi concept from the Omaha-based Flagship Restaurant Group, salad juggernaut Sweetgreen, and California-based sandwich concept Mendocino Farms.

    Da Gama has begun a quiet soft opening.

    Da Gama sign
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Da Gama has begun a quiet soft opening.
    the-heightsnews-you-can-eatopenings
    news/restaurants-bars

    truffle masters recap

    Street corn shines at Houston's truffle-powered chef competition

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 12, 2026 | 5:32 pm
    Truffle Masters 2026
    Photo by Daniel Ortiz
    Marcus Benedict, Daniella Johner, and chef Luis Roger of MAD and BCN.

    One of Houston’s top Mexican restaurants took the top prize at this year’s Truffle Masters competition. Victoria Elizondo, chef-owner of Cochinita & Co., bested 24 other Houston chefs with Elotitos, corn brushed with chiltepin aioli, dusted with seven chile spice, and finished with shaved truffles and Parmesan.

    “The team killed it last night,” Elizondo wrote on Instagram. “We won 1st place at @thetrufflemasters all while having fun and cooking with love! Food doesn’t need to be fancy, it just needs to be made with corazón!”

    The attention couldn’t have come at a better time. As CultureMap reported last month, Cochinita & Co. is currently in the process of opening a second location in Lindale Park. Customers can invest in the project via the NuMarket platform in exchange for credits at the restaurant.

    Second prize went to Camaraderie in the Heights for its black sesame and black truffle gelato, while Cocody, a French restaurant in River Oaks, took third place for its truffle-shaped Lollys Persillade Escargot Cromesquis, essentially an escargot lollypop with with black truffle and quail egg in the middle.

    Montrose sushi restaurant Soto won People’s Choice with its Engawa fin muscle with truffle balsamic unagi sauce, kizami, and chocolate black truffle masago arare. Aniket Bhingare, a bartender at Michelin-starred restaurant Musaafer, won the cocktail competition with his Pour Me a Slice, made with truffle and herb-infused and a clarified mix of roma tomatoes, fresh basil, oregano, basil, and truffle oil.

    Other standout dishes included a Yukon Gold potato with truffle brown butter from Michelin-recognized sushi restaurant Hidden Omakase, truffle s’mores from Israeli-inspired steakhouse Doris Metropolitan, beef tartare and truffle ice cream from fine dining sushi restaurant Katami, and Credence’s truffle duck sausage with plums and truffles. Maximo, a Mexican restaurant in West U., maximized (sorry) its truffle usage with a Cachetada de Barbacoa Taco, made with nixtamalized truffle tortilla, truffle-braised barbacoa, and sottocenere al tartufo cheese with black garlic-habanero salsa

    More than 350 attended the sold-out affair, which took place at the Astorian events space in Sawyer Yards. The judging panel include both media members (such as this author) and hospitality pros. A portion of proceeds will be donated to the KNOWAutism Foundation.

    Truffle Masters 2026

    Photo by Daniel Ortiz

    Marcus Benedict, Daniella Johner, and chef Luis Roger of MAD and BCN.

    news/restaurants-bars

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