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    8 things to know

    8 things to know about Houston food right now: openings, closings, and a major chef change

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 23, 2018 | 9:02 am

    A major chef change tops this week’s news. Montrose restaurant Aqui and chef de cuisine Gabriel Medina have parted ways, CultureMap has learned.

     

    General manager Steven Lo confirmed Medina’s departure but politely declined to comment on the circumstances. Medina has yet to respond to CultureMap’s request for comment about the situation or what his future plans might be.

     

    Chef-owner Paul Qui, who is still awaiting trial on charges for domestic assault stemming from an incident in March 2016, and former Kuneho chef de cuisine Mia Li are spending more time at the restaurant in the wake of Medina’s departure, according to Lo. Sous chef Niki Vongthong and CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Pastry Chef of the Year winner Jill Bartolome are still with the restaurant.

     

    Medina, who came to Aqui after successful stints at Kata Robata, Soma Sushi, and acclaimed Tokyo restaurant Narisawa (among others), helped lead Aqui to widespread acclaim, including a four-star review from Chronicle critic Alison Cook and a nomination for Medina as one of the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Rising Star Chefs of the Year. The New York Times reported that Aqui would have been nominated for the country’s Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Awards if not for Qui’s assault charges.

     

     MidiCi, the California-based Neapolitan pizza chain, has closed its Greenway Plaza/Upper Kirby location at 2925 Richmond Ave. after less than a year in business. Although the space still has its equipment and furniture, the restaurant has been removed from the company's website and its Facebook page has disappeared. Locations in Katy and Pearland remain open.

     

     Che Inka, a Peruvian and Argentinian restaurant in Rice Military, recently closed. Despite generally positive reviews, a "For Lease" sign now hangs above the space at 5535 Memorial Dr. Argentina Cafe, the restaurant's sister concept in the Galleria area, remains open.

     

    River Oaks residents with a taste for General Tso's chicken take note: Cafe Ginger has moved to its new home at 1574 W. Gray. The popular Chinese restaurant moved approximately half a mile to make way for The Driscoll at River Oaks, Weingarten Realty's 30-story residential tower that will be built on the site. Cafe Ginger will be BYOB at its new location until it receives its liquor license.

     

    Houston's second Velvet Taco opened quietly last month at 907 Westheimer Rd. The Dallas-based restaurant is known for its creative tacos, loaded tater tots, and rotisserie meats. With a two-story space, late night hours (open until 4 am on Friday and Saturday), and casual atmosphere, it's a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

     

    Memorial-area favorite Leibman’s Eatery, Market, and Gifts (formerly Leibman's Wine & Fine Foods) has reopened in its new location at 10100 Katy Freeway. Although smaller than the Memorial Drive store it replaces, the new Leibman’s still features the same wine, gifts, and deli that has made it a neighborhood staple for almost 40 years.

     

    Owner Sharon Leibman, the daughter of founders Ettiene and Ralph Leibman, has expanded the deli’s selection and seating area to allow for dining during breakfast, lunch, and dinner. While some items are new, signature dishes like the chicken salad Afrique and Gone In a Minute dip are still available and made with their classic recipes.

     

    Popular Italian restaurant Grazia Italian Kitchen has opened its third Houston-area location in Katy at 22764 Westheimer Pkwy., the restaurant announced on Facebook. Currently open for dinner only, lunch and brunch services will begin in May. Expect the same pizzas, pastas, steaks, and seafood items that have made the restaurant successful at both its Pearland and Clear Lake locations — including the award-winning smoked short ribs and risotto.

     

     Creamistry, a California-based chain that serves ice cream made with liquid nitrogen, will open its third Houston-area location in Friendswood at 211 W. Eldorado Blvd., Ste. D. The new location will join outposts near the Galleria and in the Memorial area when it opens in May.

    Velvet Taco has arrived in Montrose.

    Velvet Taco Montrose exterior
      
    Courtesy photo
    Velvet Taco has arrived in Montrose.
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    one night only

    Award-winning NYC chefs join Houston rising star for pop-up dinner

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 10, 2025 | 4:45 pm
    Barbacana restaurant interior
    Courtesy of Barbacana
    Barbacana will host the special dinner on July 22.

    One of Houston’s rising star chefs is teaming up with two of his mentors for a one-night-only experience. New York chefs Fabián von Hauske-Valtierra and Jeremiah Stone are coming to downtown restaurant Barbacana on Tuesday, July 22 for a collaboration dinner with chef-owner Christian Hernandez.


      
     
     
     
     
     
     
    View this post on Instagram
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    A post shared by Barbacana Restaurant (@barbacanahtx)


    Stone and von Hauske-Valtierra earned a Michelin star and a Food & Wine Best New Chef award for their New York City restaurant Contra. First opened in 2013, Contra served an affordable tasting menu of dishes that could change from night to night based on available ingredients. It closed in 2023. The chefs opened a new concept called Bar Contra in 2024.

    Hernandez worked at Contra as a line cook in 2016 and 2017, which is when it first earned a Michelin star. He tells CultureMap that he turned down an offer from Eleven Madison Park, then considered one of the best restaurants in America, to cook at the smaller, more innovative Contra.

    “It really shaped everything I did afterwards,” Hernandez tells CultureMap. “Their level of creativity, their confidence and comfort with what they do — we’d change the menu every couple of days. It showed me a lot of what it takes to perform on that level consistently.”

    For the collaboration dinner, Stone and von Hauske-Valtierra will prepare three dishes alongside three dishes from Hernandez and the Barbacana team. Even though the dinner is only a couple of weeks away, Hernandez hasn’t finalized the menu yet. The plan is to shop for ingredients the day before and let them dictate what’s served.

    One possibility is a dish Hernandez is testing that’s inspired by his time at Contra. It’s a tuna crudo with seasonal melson and lacto-fermented blackberry consomme.

    “Two or three elements, simple plating — as I’ve been working on this tuna dish, I’ve been thinking about them,” he says.

    Hernandez opened Barbacana in late 2024. Located near Market Square in downtown Houston, it takes inspiration from Houston’s immigrant traditions, filtered through the chef’s work at fine dining restaurants such as Oxheart, March, and Contra.

    The six-course dinner is priced at $200 with an optional, $100 wine pairings. Reservations are available on OpenTable.

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