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    What's Eric Eating Episode 88

    Poitín's chef dishes on big changes, plus River Oaks' buzzy new steakhouse

    CultureMap Staff
    Feb 21, 2019 | 4:12 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Dominick Lee joins CultureMap food editor to discuss Poitín Bar & Kitchen. As the restaurant in Sawyer Yards approaches its one-year anniversary, Lee and the restaurant's owner Ian Tucker have made a number of changes in response to customer requests.

    From installing partitions to separate the bar from the dining room to utilizing the space for events (he's looking forward to St. Patrick's Day), Poitín has become a different restaurant than it originally intended to be. No bigger change has come than on the menu, where Lee has moved in a more explicitly Southern direction. Sandler asks him why he made that choice.

    "The best that I always use to explain the change is, we have pork belly that is seasoned with five spice and adobo, which is this Filipino sauce. That dish sold heavily. It's a Southern-inspired dish with these international feels and injections into it," Lee says. "When I realized that was working a lot better and people gravitated towards dishes like this, I decided that I wanted to make Southern food.

    "I believe when chefs focus in on the palate that they come from that they make the best food. It's what you've grown up on. It's the food you resonate with the best. If we do this and give ourselves this identity, then people know who we are instead of people always saying 'Poitín, they make world food.' That was just a constant thing that was driving us nuts."

    The chef discusses other changes at the restaurant, including the new Sunday roast menu inspired by The Exchequer, Tucker's successful bar and restaurant in Dublin. Lee even hints at what sort of restaurant he'd like to open next.

    Prior to Lee's interview, Urban Swank blogger Felice Sloan joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Bobby Heugel and Justin Yu's plans for Squable, the restaurant they're opening in the former Southern Goods space; popular taco truck La Macro's new home near the Heights; Perry's Steakhouse hiring star chef Rick Moonen; and a deal between craft brewers and beer distributors that could pave the way for to-go sales from breweries. In the restaurants of the week segment, they rave about a recent meal at 2840 at Dukessa, where former Kitchen 713 chef Ross Coleman is catering to an upscale lunch crowd. They also discuss Perry's newly opened location in River Oaks and share some of their favorite dishes from the Rodeo Uncorked! Best Bites competition.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 3 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Squable's cuisine intrigues the hosts.

    Squable food spread
    Photo by Jenn Duncan
    Squable's cuisine intrigues the hosts.
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    Bernadine's Revived?

    Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 4, 2026 | 9:01 am
    Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
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    Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

    If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

    “I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

    Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

    The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

    Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

    The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

    “I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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