Introducing Squable

Bobby Heugel and Justin Yu reveal eagerly awaited details of ambitious new Heights restaurant

Bobby Heugel and Justin Yu have revealed details about their plans for the former Southern Goods space on 19th Street in the Heights. The new restaurant is called Squable and is slated to open later this spring, the duo announced.

In addition to its high-profile owners — Yu is the James Beard-award winning chef-owner of Theodore Rex and Heugel is the owner and co-founder of Anvil Bar & Refuge — Squable will pack a lot of food and beverage talent into its kitchen and bar.

The restaurant will feature the culinary talents of two chef partners: Mark Clayton, a veteran line cook who worked for Yu at Oxheart, and Drew Gimma, the talented baker who helped open Common Bond and currently works for Yu and Heugel at Better Luck Tomorrow. Terry Williams, the one-time Tastemaker Bartender of the Year winner who oversees operations for Anvil and Better Luck Tomorrow, will serve as the restaurant's general manager and be a partner in the business. BLT' bartender Anna Wilkins (Julep, Eight Row Flint) will move to Squable and serve as head bartender.

“Justin and I are very excited about everyone involved taking a big next step with our careers through this restaurant as we get to fill the role of restauranteur by supporting three of the most talented professionals we’ve ever worked with," Heugel said in a statement.

“Mark and Drew have all the talent in the world, but the way they approach food is very pure and without an agenda," added Yu. "To enjoy their food, you don’t need to be a world traveler or in touch with the chef world, you just have to enjoy good food, good drink and good company.”

Like Better Luck Tomorrow, the bar they opened in 2017 that earned best new restaurant honors from both Food & Wine and Bon Appetit, Squable's name is a bit of a joke: a reference to a playful argument (properly spelled "squabble") as well as, in Heugel's words, "a blatantly dorky food reference." The setting will feature signature touches that combine their experiences, including Theodore Rex's integrated silverware drawers and Anvil's brass bar top. Expect dinner six days a week followed by brunch.

Turning to the food, the partners describe Squable as a neighborhood restaurant that serves a menu of European-style dishes with American touches and Texas ingredients. Expect dishes like handmade pasta with butter-braised onions, pork neck schnitzel, smoked grouper with pumpkins seeds, and tagliata steak with Texas olive oil and arugula. A patio menu will focus on oysters and other shellfish that customers can snack on before they have a table.

“My background has taught me to be resourceful and, most importantly, humble," Clayton said. "I don’t think anything can prepare you for opening your first restaurant, but I know it is time for me to do so.”

In addition to working with Clayton on the savory menu, Gimma will utilize his experience to lead the restaurant's pastry and bread program with offerings that include a Dutch baby pancake with fresh cheese, black pepper, and honey, as well as a caramelized pain di mie with maple and cream that will serve as a dessert option. He will also create a range of rotating seasonal breads.

As for the bar, Williams and Wilkins plan to focus on classic cocktails, especially martinis and drinks that diners can sip on the patio while they wait for a table. Once seating, they expect patrons to opt for one of the 60 or so wines selected by sommelier Justin Vann, the same mind behind the wine lists at Public Services, Theodore Rex, and BLT. While the natural wines trend will be represented among the offerings, Squable's list will also provide plenty of "classics that are classics for a reason."

Taken together, it looks like the celebrated duo are evolving. Having spent the past few years building a team of talented individuals to help run their various projects, the time has come to turn them loose on a more ambitious endeavor. Whatever the results, the competition for the best new restaurant of 2019 will certainly include 19th Street.

A selection of Squable's dishes.

Photo by Jenn Duncan

A selection of Squable's dishes.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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