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    Food for Thought

    Another Houston food institution is set to be bulldozed: Shouldn't we care more about history?

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Jan 21, 2013 | 9:01 am

    Restaurants and bars often become second homes to regulars.

    Think of Cheers. (Norm!) They are places where you can hang out, relax, get some great food and some drinks and just be as comfortable as you are in your own living room.

    But in Houston, where developers reign as king and city ordinances hardly benefit iconic hangouts and neighborhoods over new building, we often lose our homes away from home. They pave over paradise to put up a parking lot.

    As long as I’ve lived in Houston, and that’s been a while, one of the things I missed out on was the famous Shamrock Hotel. Built in the 1940s by wildcatter Glenn McCarthy for $23 million it was the epitome of elegance and the be-and-be-seen place in Houston. Frank Sinatra was the opening act on St. Patrick’s Day in 1949 when media from around the world came to see the celebrities and the water skiing women in the giant swimming pool.

    Oh, what I wouldn’t give to have dined in the Pine Grill where the champagne cocktails were $1.50 and the Chef’s Special Dinner (just $3.25!) consisted of cream of fresh celery, roast Long Island duckling with applesauce, French new peas, bread and butter and fresh strawberries and coffee. Heaven.

    Frank Sinatra was the opening act on St. Patrick’s Day in 1949 when media from around the world came to see the celebrities and the water skiing women in the giant swimming pool.

    But, alas, the Shamrock was torn down by the expanding Texas Medical Center in 1987 and — like the song says — was paved over for a parking lot.

    Sigh.

    But even in my time I’ve lost places I loved. La Mora Cucina Toscana on Lovett Boulevard, one of the most romantic, charming Italian eateries in Houston, is now a bunch of town homes. Luckily, chef/owner Lynette Hawkins has a new, causal spot, Giacomo’s cibo e vino. Not the same ambience but terrific food.

    Oh, and who remembers the Confederate House? The reigning dining establishment for oilmen, athletes and ladies who lunch for more than five decades, the establishment of old world dining (jackets required) that was finally forced to change its name to the State Grille to be more PC, is also gone. I used to love to lunch there and hang in the dark lounge on the right side after you entered, where regulars would congregate in the early afternoon for cheap cocktails and a free hot buffet. I really loved that place.

    Today it’s a huge hole in the ground about to be turned into a 40-story luxury apartment building because lord knows that’s what the corner of Weslayan and West Alabama needs when all the streets in the area look like they’ve been shelled by terrorists and there are high rises being built all around without any new water/sewer or police or fire stations being built to handle the increase in population.

    Oh, wait that’s not my beat.

    OK, back to food.

    And now the latest. Blanco’s Bar & Grill will close.

    You read the news here on CultureMap that St. John’s School purchased the land where Blanco's sits from the Taub family to expand the private school.

    Goodbye History — Again

    Blanco’s is not, by any stretch of the imagination, a fine dining establishment. But it is a Houston icon. A real Texas country-style honky tonk that features boot scootin’ bands by night, political fund raisers, chili cook offs, Rodeo committee ad hoc meetings over beers and burgers, and a popular cheap lunch. There are chicken fried steaks, red beans and rice, chopped steaks, chili cheese fries and a surprisingly good club sandwich.

    Today it’s a huge hole in the ground about to be turned into a 40-story luxury apartment building.

    The wood frame single story building with faded blue paint has been around almost as long as St. John’s. Originally it was a day care center, and then a bar called Hondo’s before Barry E. DeBakey, son of the late, great heart surgeon Michael DeBakey, bought it and changed the name.

    For decades Blanco’s has served the River Oaks rich set, nearby office drones, construction workers, journalists and just about anybody wanting to escape the big city feel and just relax in a place where the beer is cold, the wild animals stuffed and decorated (there’s a pink cowboy hat on a deer head at the bar) and the staff knows your name and your drink of choice.

    Last week the Today show did a live shot from Blanco’s for a story about a drinking app for your iPad. Too bad they didn’t talk about the impending demise of this institution.

    Sometimes history and modern development can coexist. Case in point is the Church of St. Joske’s in downtown San Antonio. Technically, its name is St. Joseph’s Catholic Church.

    Built in 1876 by the German community it has long been known for its fabulous stained glass windows. But Joske’s department store wanted to expand and in the late 1940s it wanted the church land. The church refused to sell and the flagship Joske’s, a five-story emporium that was the first in the state to have escalators and air conditioning, built around the church.

    Three sides of the church are now surrounded by the store that has since been acquired by Dillard’s, which then closed it in 2008. The historic little church is still active and still surrounded by huge development.

    But that likely won’t happen to Blanco’s.

    Honky tonks and parochial schools don’t exactly mix. I can’t see St. John’s School building around Blanco’s. And besides that Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission has a rule about selling liquor within 1,000 feet of a school.

    So, it’s adios Blanco’s.

    We don’t know when it will close. The school first needs a master plan for expansion and then will likely have to raise funds before construction begins.

    In the meantime, get your boots over to Blanco’s for little dancing, a little booze and some great greasy burgers.

    As long as I’ve lived in Houston, and that’s been a while, one of the things I missed out on was the famous Shamrock Hotel.

    The Shamrock Hotel, Houston, postcard
    PostcardRoundup.com
    As long as I’ve lived in Houston, and that’s been a while, one of the things I missed out on was the famous Shamrock Hotel.
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    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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