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    Mutiny on the Bayou

    New Napa-style wine bar and restaurant uncorks in The Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 8, 2020 | 1:25 pm

    The Heights may be known as a top-tier dining destination, but the neighborhood has also become more wine-friendly. In addition to staples like Sonoma and Coltivare, recent arrivals such as Savoir and Squable have given the area exciting new options for oenophiles.

    That movement takes another step forward this month courtesy of Mutiny Wine Room. Set to open January 18 at 1124 Usener St., the new wine bar and restaurant seeks to recreate the experience of visiting a California winery.

    Mutiny's owners, the husband-and-wife duo of Mark Ellenberger and Emily Trout, got their start in the wine business when they celebrated their first anniversary by making a barrel of wine. Since then, the couple turned their passion into Kagan Cellars, an award-winning winery that produces 500 cases per year.

    Mutiny recreates the winery experience with its own tasting room. Staff members will guide customers through tasting flights that are based on offerings from a specific boutique winery or around another theme such as a specific varietal.

    A separate area, dubbed "The Farmhouse," will allow patrons to eat and drink in a more traditional wine bar setting. The entire list of approximately 45 bottles will also be available by the glass, courtesy of a self-described "state-of-the-art Coravin wine system." Selections will be drawn from boutique wineries, which are described as those that produce between 500 and 5,000 cases per year.

    To further enhance the Napa Valley vibe, Ellenberger and Trout recruited California chef Ari Weiswasser to create Mutiny's menus. A veteran of restaurants such as New York City's Corton, which earned two Michelin stars, and The French Laudry, Weiswasser and his wife Erinn Benziger-Weiswasser operate Glen Ellen Star in California's wine country.

    At Mutiny, the menu will feature dishes such as cream of sunchoke soup, rigatoni pasta with black trompette mushrooms, and steamed mussels with saffron and Pernod emulsion. Chef Eduardo Alcayaga (Goode Co.) will oversee day-to-day operations.

    In terms of design, the establishment takes its inspiration from Napa Valley farmhouses. Details include "exposed beams, reclaimed wood fixtures, and stone walls," according to a release. Two patios, one of which will be dog-friendly, provide al fresco drinking and dining possibilities.

    "We are thrilled to be able to bring this new type of wine tasting experience to Houston,” Trout said in a statement. “Mutiny Wine Room has been a labor of love for Mark and me, and we know that the journey is only just beginning. Wine is our collective passion, and we could not be more excited to share our passion for wine, food, and socializing with future guests in a setting that will be the first-of-its-kind for Houston and even Texas.”

    Emily Trout and Mark Ellenberger.

    Mutiny Wine Room Mark Ellenberger Emily Trout
    Photo by Jenn Duncan
    Emily Trout and Mark Ellenberger.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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