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    Travelin' Man

    The amazing city you never knew you wanted to visit: Stumbling upon a South Pacific Island secret

    Stephan Lorenz
    Stephan Lorenz
    Nov 27, 2014 | 9:02 am

    Locals wrinkled their brows and other travelers were in shocked disbelief that we even considered spending a few days in Noumea. But here we were, our travel plans foiled by unexpected local school holidays, a bit of poor preparation, and we had already driven around the whole island, literally. Turns out, the city of Noumea is just perfect for four accidental days.

    Noumea is the bustling capital of New Caledonia, one of the largest South Pacific Islands and currently a special collectivity of France. The island is a continental chunk that separated from its closest neighbor, Australia, 66 million years ago. It now forms a long stretch of mountainous land, extending roughly 200 miles in length to 50 miles wide. The capital, with a population of roughly 100,000, sits on a peninsula surrounded by bays, coral reefs and small islands.

    Noumea serves mainly as an entry and exit point for overseas visitors, which move on to other parts of the island quickly. We had done the same for the previous 10 days and toured around the whole country along the main roads, visiting national parks, remote beaches and quiet mountains. We mainly chased after warmer waters and better snorkeling conditions, difficult to find during the southern winter.

    Underneath the peeling paint and beyond the rough edges, the city maintains lots of charm and has a relaxed atmosphere despite its size.

    After plans to visit islands further out fell apart, we found our way back to the capital with four days to spare. At first glance, Noumea definitely appeared as if an infusion of funding decades ago hurriedly erected high-rises and slapped infrastructure improvements between the turquoise bays, with the buildings now slowly decaying under the tropical sun and gentle, salt breezes wafting off the ocean. Yet, underneath the peeling paint and beyond the rough edges, the city maintains lots of charm and has a relaxed atmosphere despite its size.

    We stayed in the only youth hostel in town, or in all of New Caledonia for that matter. The rooms were spartan, but the central location atop a hill and friendly atmosphere are ideal. At $45 a night for a double, it was relatively expensive, but by far the cheapest option in town.

    An efficient bus system allows visitors to explore every corner of the city, but it is almost small enough that walking is also an option. Before setting out, ask the friendly hostel staff for some tips. They gave us good advice on places to visit and eateries.

    What to do?

    Beaches, restaurants, tours, museums, and markets, there is plenty to do in Noumea to easily fill several days. And if running out, just spend a day relaxing, adjusting to the rhythm of the South Pacific. One of the highlights during a visit to Noumea or New Caledonia in general is a trip to the Isle of Pines.

    While I can recommend a stay of a few nights, it is possible to make a day trip from Noumea to this enchanted island. We set off early in the morning on the fast Betico 2 passenger ferry. The crossing took nearly three hours and once there we quickly made our way to Piscine Naturelle. We spend the rest of the day snorkeling in this perfect natural swimming hole that teemed with colorful fish.

    The smooth, aquamarine pool fringed by distinct Cook pines, stretching their twisted trunks into the blue sky has to be seen to be believed.

    Nourishment!

    New Caledonia’s cuisine is a delectable mix of French and local Kanak food. Ask locals about the best places to eat. We were directed to Le Fournil Gourmand for baked goods and the obligatory baguette and we returned religiously after our first slice of crumble cake.

    Go to the market in the morning for breakfast and strong espresso. The selection for dinner is nearly limitless, ranging from expensive restaurants serving fancy French dishes (think escargot) to smaller eateries serving a mix of local and international food (think seafood).

    Underwater?

    We were ready to see some of the underwater wonders New Caledonia has on offer. The island is fringed by the second-longest double-barrier reef in the world, which supports corals teeming with fish and diverse marine animals. Large sections of the reef and the turquoise lagoon are protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After not having much luck with weather and rough conditions in other parts of the island, we were pleasantly surprised that Noumea offers several beautiful snorkeling spots.

    Ile aux Canard, or Duck Island, is the city’s most easily and worthwhile spot to don a mask and snorkel. It’s possible to catch a bus from any main road to Anse Vata beach, where regular taxi boats ferry visitors to the tiny island lying just offshore. The ride takes less than five minutes across the blue waters of Anse Vata bay and a quick hop landed us on the white sands of the island.

    We were pleasantly surprised that Noumea offers several beautiful snorkeling spots.

    There is an expensive restaurant, umbrellas and beach chairs for hire, and most importantly, snorkel gear for rent. Early in the morning, we had the place to ourselves and quickly plunged in to take advantage of the dedicated snorkel trail, where underwater signs explain the ecology of the reef and identify some of the creatures. We saw the expected sea turtle, tropical fish and even an octopus.

    An even easier plunge can be taken off the popular beach at Baie des Citrons where the reef starts just offshore. During a quick afternoon snorkel I saw plenty of clownfish and even sea snakes.

    Relax

    Watch the locals do the same at Place Des Cocotiers. This small plaza underneath enormous palms and flame trees is not only a good place to catch a bus into the city, but also offers an excellent vantage point to observe the rhythm of the city. People come to stroll, meet, and chat. Families rest on benches in the early evening or set up a picnic near the fountains. A few scattered food stands also serve strong coffee and snacks.

    The pier lies within walking distance along with many shops where souvenirs, local products, clothes and jewelry can be bought.

    Culture

    After tracking though the city, following historical markers to seek out the few remaining historical buildings in the city, we scanned through a pamphlet advertising the different museums in Noumea.

    The city has a maritime museum, cultural center, city museum, and the museum of New Caledonia. We decided to spend an afternoon in the latter. The small, but well organized museum displays artifacts and arts from various Polynesian cultures found throughout the South Pacific. Life-sized huts and watercraft allow visitors to gain an understanding of human settlement throughout the islands.

    Spears, masks, and other handicraft reveal the diversity of cultures found in the region. The Tjibaou Cultural Centre just outside the city is also worth a visit.

    Piscine Naturelle on Isle of Pines is a snorkeling paradise.

    Stephan Lorenz Noumea, New Caledonia November 2014 Piscine Naturelle on Isle of Pines is a snorkeling paradise.
    Photo by © Stephan Lorenz
    Piscine Naturelle on Isle of Pines is a snorkeling paradise.
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    news/travel

    Get your kicks

    Texas is just the start of the ultimate Route 66 road trip

    Associated Press
    Apr 9, 2026 | 9:30 am
    Cadillac Ranch
    Cadillac Ranch/ Facebook
    Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is an essential stop on a Route 66 road trip.

    ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. (AP) — There are faster ways to get from Chicago to Los Angeles, but none have the allure or cultural cachet of Route 66.

    To John Steinbeck, it was the Mother Road that led poor farmers from Dust Bowl desperation to sunny California. To Native Americans along the route, it was an economic boon that also left scars. To Black travelers, it offered sanctuary during segregation. And to music fans, it was the place to get their kicks.

    Route 66 marks its 100th anniversary this year. Despite losing its status decades ago as one of the nation’s main arteries, people from around the world still flock to it to take perhaps the quintessential American road trip and soak in its neon lights, kitschy motels and attractions, and culinary offerings.

    The dream
    Route 66, which runs for roughly 2,400 miles (3,860 kilometers) from Chicago through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before ending in Santa Monica, California, was stitched together a century ago from a collection of Native American trading routes and old dirt roads with the goal of linking the industrial Midwest to the Pacific coast.

    Oklahoma businessman Cyrus Avery, known as the Father of Route 66, saw it as more than just a way to cross the country efficiently. It was a chance to connect rural America and create new pockets of commerce.

    Avery knew the number 66 would be ripe for marketing and could be seared into drivers' minds, and he was right: Route 66 has been immortalized in movies, books, including Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath and Jack Kerouac’s On the Road, and songs such as Bobby Troup's “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66,” which served as an anthem for post-World War II optimism and mobility.

    If you’ve ever planned to motor west and take the highway that’s the best, the year of Route 66's 100th anniversary just might be the time.

    Many stretches of Route 66 may be littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but there's still much history and magic to be discovered. With each stop the wheels of imagination turn, leaving travelers to contemplate what life was like for the people and communities that made the road hum.

    Here are essential stops and sights to see on a road trip along historic Route 66.

    Route 66 Somewhere along Route 66. Photo by Morten Andreassen on Unsplash

    Illinois
    Chicago has long been one of the country’s economic engines, with access to international waters and railroads that linked all corners of the country.

    For some travelers, the journey is fueled more by the food than the scenery, and there’s plenty to choose from — slices of homemade pie, thick shakes, cheeseburgers and an assortment of fried delights.

    The Cozy Dog Drive In in Springfield, the Illinois capital, is one of the many diners that sprang up along Route 66, and its breaded hot dogs on a stick have stood the test of time. Third-generation owner Josh Waldmire says the recipe is a secret.

    Waldmire’s grandfather, Ed, saw the concoction’s potential as fast and convenient road food and developed a system for frying the dogs vertically.

    Missouri
    Route 66 has its share of twists and turns, and it’s no surprise that a highway famous for its quirky roadside attractions would cross the nation’s most famous river on one of the more peculiar bridges known to modern engineering.

    As the road nears St. Louis, the mile-long (1.6-kilometer-long) Chain of Rocks Bridge hovers more than 60 feet (18 meters) above the Mississippi River.

    Engineers eventually built a straighter, higher-speed option, and a poor resale market spared the original bridge from the scrap heap. Today it’s reserved for pedestrians and cyclists.

    A median in Missouri is home to St. Robert Route 66 Neon Park, which features orphaned neon signs that once beckoned travelers to stop at certain sites and businesses along the highway. Often handcrafted, they weren’t only markers for motels, cafes and gas stations, but were also folk art and symbols of local culture.

    Kansas
    The Sunflower State hosts only a short stretch of Route 66, but it packs a punch with the Kan-O-Tex Service Station in Galena. A classic example of roadside fare, the station served as inspiration for the animated 2006 Pixar film Cars.

    Director John Lasseter and his crew took road trips along the route, digging into history and looking for elements that could bring the project to life. It was in Galena where they spotted the old boom truck that served as the basis for the character Tow Mater. The plot wasn’t far off, as so many once bustling towns — like the fictional Radiator Springs — nearly faded away after being bypassed by an interstate.

    Kansas also is home to the Brush Creek Bridge, otherwise known as the Rainbow Bridge. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of few remaining examples of the concrete arched bridges designed by James Barney Marsh.

    Route 66 Neon signs along Route 66. Photo by Mick Haupt on Unsplash

    Oklahoma
    There was a real danger for some who traveled the road, particularly Black motorists passing through inhospitable and segregated areas during the Jim Crow era. The Green Book — a guide first published in 1936 by Victor Hugo Green — listed hotels, restaurants and gas stations that would serve Black customers.

    The Threatt Filling Station near Luther wasn’t listed in The Green Book, but it was a safe haven — not only for getting fuel, but for barbecue and baseball. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it was the only known Black-owned and operated gas station along Route 66.

    Route 66 is littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but one example of the highway’s resilient spirit stands tall in Sapulpa, near Tulsa. The restored Tee Pee Drive-In Theater offers a step back into the 1950s, when the booming car culture helped spawn thousands of drive-in theaters nationwide.

    Built in 1949, the drive-in officially opened in the spring of 1950 with a screening of John Wayne’s “Tycoon.” It was one of the few drive-ins at the time to have paved pathways. Over the years, it survived a tornado, a fire that destroyed the concession stand and break-ins before being shuttered for more than 20 years. It reopened in 2023.

    route 66 historic district Get your kicks on Route 66 in Amarillo. Photo courtesy of Visit Amarillo

    Texas
    Blink and you might miss it, but a stop at the Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is a must for any Route 66 journey. For decades, visitors have been spray-painting the 10 vintage Cadillacs at the site and mulling the transitory nature of time as Bruce Springsteen did in his 1980 song of the same name.

    It’s not a ranch, but rather a public art installation created in 1974 by the art and architecture collective Ant Farm. At first, the cars — which were half-buried front-down at a 60-degree angle — were used for target practice. Others would scratch their initials into the metal. The spray painting started later.

    Arrive in Adrian and you’re halfway through your trip. Steps from a white line marking the midpoint of Route 66 is the Midway Cafe, where the “ugly pies” are anything but.

    If you’re still hungry, head back to Amarillo for a 72-ounce (2 kilogram) steak and all the sides at The Big Texan. If you can finish the meal in an hour or less, it's free.

    New Mexico
    More than half of Route 66 cuts through sovereign Native American lands, often tracing routes used by tribes long before settlers arrived. Much like the railroad in the 1800s, the highway opened the door to a new era of commerce, but it also fueled stereotypes about cultures along the way.

    There are still faded and crumbling references to tipis and feathered headdresses at some stops along the historic highway. The symbols were easily appropriated for marketing by roadside vendors but weren't indicative of the separate and distinct Native American cultures in the area.

    Today, tribes are telling their own stories and showcasing their creations, whether it be pottery, fruit pies or poems.

    Albuquerque boasts the longest intact urban stretch of Route 66. Those 18 miles (29 kilometers) pass through several neighborhoods and business districts, from historic Old Town to Nob Hill.

    Some of the old motor lodges and neon signs along what is now Central Avenue have been restored. Other signs are being reimagined using hubcaps, elaborate lowrider-inspired paint jobs and New Mexico’s classic yellow and red license plates in a nod to the car culture that is very much still alive in the city.

    Arizona
    Musician Jackson Browne was taking his own road trip in the early 1970s when his car left him stranded in Winslow. The experience inspired the lyrics to the Eagles’ hit “Take it Easy.” But it’s certainly not the only song that is a must-have for a Route 66 playlist.

    Bobby Troup created a classic American road anthem in the 1940s with “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66.” Nat King Cole, Chuck Berry, The Rolling Stones and Depeche Mode carried it through the decades, each covering the song with their own flair.

    While standing on a corner in Winslow, don’t be surprised if someone saunters up with a guitar and starts strumming favorites from their own road trip playlist.

    Before leaving the state, the one-time gold mining town of Oatman features a Wild West atmosphere, daily staged shootouts and beloved burros. Oatman was a destination along one of the original alignments of Route 66 via a treacherous path through the Black Mountains, but it was later bypassed as part of improvements made in the 1950s.

    California
    Once a desert oasis, Roy’s Motel & Café in Amboy is a quintessential Route 66 landmark. The towering neon sign is one of the most photographed spots along the road. Inside, foreign currency left by international visitors lines one wall. Across the street, a clothing post decorated with shoes, shirts and other items juts up from the desert floor.

    This stretch of the highway through the Mojave Desert offers a special kind of solitude. The pavement gets rough in spots and the landscape takes charge, showing off Joshua trees, wide-open spaces and the remnants of ancient volcanic activity.

    Much of the area is undeveloped, meaning it looks a lot like it would have when Route 66 was commissioned in 1926.

    After making it through oft-congested Los Angeles, the iconic Santa Monica Pier marks the end of the line, and it’s nothing short of a perpetual party with a steady stream of spectators and performers. Although many stretches of Route 66 have lapsed into decay, the breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean are a reminder of the pursuits made possible by the road over the last century.

    american road tripneon signsroad triproute 66
    news/travel
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