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    American Aboard

    The perfect Paris vacation planner: Pictures, trains and dreamy visions — it's easy to be your own curator

    Leslie Loddeke
    By Leslie Loddeke
    May 19, 2014 | 1:43 pm

    PARIS — Picture this: You’re admiring a painting depicting a dreamy scene on a beautiful day in the elegant Jardin du Luxembourg.

    Angelic-looking children are peacefully wielding long wooden poles as they propel sailboats across the basin of a fountain on the statue-studded grounds near the regal Palais du Luxembourg.

    In the background, throngs of Parisians are showing what joie de vivre is all about as they enjoy Le Week-End, being in the moment, basking in the sunshine. Above, majestic trees fan out against a baby-blue sky. You can almost feel the light breeze that’s rippling the water in the bassin. You realize Vivaldi must have been inspired by a scene like this when he composed his joyous “Spring” concerto in “The Four Seasons.”

    Real love creeps in when you begin to see the pictures all around, wherever you walk in the city, away from the top-billed attractions, outside as well as inside the museums.

    The longer you look at this picture, the more you fall in love with it. But you don’t want to own it. You want to be IN it.

    Suddenly, you realize you are. You’re slowly waking from a reverie, standing in the Luxembourg Gardens on an idyllic spring day in Paris. You’re watching real people serenely pursuing picturesque activities or just lounging, comfortable as cats, in metal chairs on the manicured grounds of an artfully designed, well-cared-for historic setting.

    The scene strikes you as strangely quiet until you remember that Parisians discreetly inhale their words as they speak to one another, so they don’t bother anyone else, a pleasant legacy probably left over from the days of the Resistance.

    Now you’re getting the picture of why so many people fall in love with Paris, once they get past the understandable compulsion to take endless selfies at the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe. Those signature monuments are truly smashing spectacles that practically club you over the head, and I adore them, too.

    But real love creeps in when you begin to see the pictures all around, wherever you walk in the city, away from the top-billed attractions, outside as well as inside the museums. For the whole city is so artistically designed and presented, at some point you can’t help noticing its deeper, silent charms, and appreciating all the efforts that contributed to what you’re seeing.

    Plethora Of Pictures

    You may well be considering a trip to Paris this summer, as it’s among the world’s top tourist destinations. Before you go, it’s a good idea to set up a short list of museum exhibitions you’d like to see in order to acclimate yourself to the plethora of pictures, framed and unframed, throughout Paris.

    I recently returned from a week of luxuriating in such pictures, and thought I’d offer a few ideas on how others might start their own collections under the title “Dream Archives.” That was inspired by an exhibition I saw at the Musee de l’Orangerie: “Archives of the Dream, Drawings from the Musee d’Orsay: carte blanche for Werner Spies.”

    You’ll be mesmerized by this selection of fantastical ideas and shadowy figures drawn by masters like Redon (“Devil carrying off a head,” 1876), Moreau (“Samson and Delilah,” 1882), Millet (“Lobster fishermen throwing their pots,” night effect,” 1857-60), and Seurat (“The Veil,” circa 1883.) This exhibition runs through June 30.

    The Musee d’Orsay also is presenting a dreamy exhibition, although this one is drawn more closely along the lines of a nightmare: “Van Gogh/Artaud, The Man Suicided by Society,” which runs through July 6.

    The “Man Suicided” collection is based on a 1947 book by Antonin Artaud, who argued that Van Gogh was driven to end it all by a society that was either indifferent to his work or trying to keep him from “uttering unspeakable truths,” according to the handout. With the aid of Artaud quotes offering vivid descriptions like “landscapes of strong convulsions,” the visitor gains a better understanding of this tormented artist and his work.

    My favorite was a painting of “Le Jardin de l’hopital Saint-Paul” (1889), a colorful perspective of the profusely blooming garden of the artist’s hospital.

    Dazzling Entertainment

    While that show was intellectually stimulating, I felt far more cheerful touring the enormous, dazzling “Paris 1900, City of Entertainment” exhibition. Six hundred exhibits, including paintings, sculpture, costumes, jewelry and photos, offer varying, delicious views of the formidable grandeur of the City of Lights during the fabulous Belle Epoque. “Paris 1900” is appropriately showcased at the splendid Petit Palais, which was built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. There it will remain through Aug. 17.

    The Guardian’s slideshow selection of “Paris 1900” exhibits will give you a good taste of this wholly delectable exhibition. Look at the Prinet painting of the gentleman kissing the hand of the lady resting during an evening gala on “Le Balcon,” and check out that elaborate Worth evening cape!

    The Orient Express

    And now for something completely different. How about touring the beautifully restored, handsomely outfitted old train cars in the exhibition “Once upon a time, the Orient Express” at the Arab World Institute? It will be there all summer, closing Aug. 31.

    Peering into the train’s compartments inspires the fantasy of being able to take the Orient Express from Houston to Paris.

    In reviewing this exhibition, CNN asked a good question: “Can any train ride match the Orient Express for glamor and sheer romance?” CNN notes that France’s national rail system, SCNF, is planning on bringing back the Orient Express, and as a prelude, teamed with the Arab World Institute to present “a long lost era when time had another meaning and traveling to Istanbul took four days and three nights.”

    What a grand experience that must have been! Peering into this luxe train’s private compartments inspires the wild fantasy of being able to take the Orient Express from Houston to Paris. Talk about traveling in style!

    I also recommend a look at the Orient Express for a nostalgic perspective of an entirely different, exotic way of traveling. Each of the elegant carriages, which date back to the ‘20s, is lavishly decorated like a stage set, strewn with vintage pieces. There are references to Murder on the Orient Express author Agatha Christie, Stamboul Train novelist Graham Greene, and even a steamy railcar scene in a James Bond film.

    However, that “once upon a time” feeling came through for me most vividly in examining the cars themselves — aspects like the exquisite, floral-designed Lalique glass paneling and the gleaming, rich wood. I loved seeing how so much concern about real quality went into the design and selection of the materials used in every part of those cars.

    While in Paris, I saw other exhibitions, but these were my favorites and they were all very well-attended. If you want to see any of them, you would be well-advised to book a timed-entry reservation in advance.

    One Regret

    I missed only one show I had wanted to see, that I would recommend. I’d read a great review in The Guardian on the Musee Marmottan Monet’s “Les Impressionistes en Prive” exhibition, which runs through July 6. It features seldom-seen Impressionist paintings from numerous private collections, and I was really looking forward to seeing it when I drew up my must-see list before I left.

    However, that was the one exhibition on my list for which I couldn’t get a ticket during my week’s stay when, on the day I landed, I visited my local FNAC event ticket purveyor. While I was disappointed, the news evoked little more than a Gallic shrug from me at the time.

    After all, I was in Paris. See what I mean?

    You’re slowly waking from a reverie, standing in the Luxembourg Gardens on an idyllic spring day in Paris.

    Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris
    Photo by Leslie Loddeke
    You’re slowly waking from a reverie, standing in the Luxembourg Gardens on an idyllic spring day in Paris.
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    Now hear this

    New Texas museum shines spotlight on Tejano music history

    Edmond Ortiz
    Dec 18, 2025 | 11:30 am
    Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum, San Antonio, tejano music
    Photo by Edmond Ortiz
    Roger Hernandez serves as board president of the Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum.

    For a city that proudly calls itself the capital of Tejano music, San Antonio has long been missing a permanent place to honor the genre’s pioneers and preserve its history. That gap officially closed In December with the opening of the Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum at 1414 Fredericksburg Rd.

    The music couldn’t have found a better steward than its founder and board president. Roger Hernandez has had his finger on the pulse of Tejano music for decades. His company, En Caliente Productions, has provided a platform for countless performing artists and songwriters in Tejano, conjunto, and regional Mexican music since 1982.

    Hernandez says his wife, who ran a shop at Market Square years ago, would often get questions from visitors about the location of a physical Tejano music museum, a thing that simply did not exist. In 2022, he banded together with friends, family, and other local Tejano music supporters to make the nonprofit Hall of Fame a reality.

    “I decided I've been in the music scene for over 40 years, it's time to do a museum,” Hernandez recalls.

    Hernandez says a brick-and-mortar Tejano music museum has long been needed to remember musical acts and other individuals who grew the genre across Texas and northern Mexico, especially those who are aging. Recently, the community lost famed Tejano music producer Manny Guerra and Abraham Quintanilla, the renowned Tejano singer/songwriter and father of the late superstar Selena Quintanilla-Perez. Both deaths occurred roughly one week after the Totally Tejano museum opened to the public.

    “They're all dying. They're all getting older, and we need to acknowledge all these people,” Hernandez says.

    The Totally Tejano Museum — named after Hernandez’s Totally Tejano Television Roku streaming — has 5,000 square feet of space packed with plaques, photos, promotional posters, musical instruments, and other memorabilia honoring the pioneers and stars of the beloved genre. Mannequins wear stage outfits from icons like Laura Canales and Flaco Jimenez, and a wall of photos remembers late greats. Totally Tejano Television plays legendary performances on a loop, bringing the exhibits to life.

    Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum, San Antonio, Tejano music The newly opened Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum includes a growing collection of memorabilia. Photo by Edmond Ortiz

    Hernandez says the museum will soon welcome permanent and rotating exhibits, including traveling shows, a Hall of Fame section, and an area paying homage to Chicano music crossovers, such as the late Johnny Rodriguez, the South Texas singer-songwriter who blended country with Tex-Mex music. Plans call for the organization to hold its inaugural Hall of Fame induction in February 2026.

    Eventually, a 2,000 square feet back room will be converted into additional display space and host industry gatherings, community symposiums, and record and video release parties. The museum also plans to add a gift and record shop and a music learning room where visitors can listen to early Tejano music and browse archival photos. Hernandez is already talking with local school districts about educational field trips.

    Much like Tejano itself, the museum is a grassroots production. Hernandez and fellow board members have used their own money to rent, renovate, develop, and maintain the museum space. The board also leads the selection of the Hall of Fame honorees and curates the exhibits.

    Hernandez has been heartened by the museum’s reception, both from media outlets and music fans around Texas and beyond.

    “We had a radio station come in this morning from Houston to interview us,” he says. “People have come in from Lubbock, Texas. We have had people from Midland, Texas. We have another person who emailed us who’s coming in from New York. People are learning all about us.”

    That includes many of the musicians who helped shape the genre. Johnny Hernandez, Sunny Ozuna, Elida Reyna, and Danny Martinez from Danny and The Tejanos are among the luminaries who have already graced the halls.

    The Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum is now open 10 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Sunday, and closed Monday. Admission is free, but donations are encouraged. Fans can call 210-314-1310 for more information.


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