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    chefs on the move

    Underbelly Hospitality's pivotal chef announces imminent departure from company

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 25, 2022 | 11:05 am
    Wild Oats Nick Fine

    Nick Fine will remain a partner in Wild Oats.

    Photo by Claudia Casbarian

    A key player in Underbelly Hospitality’s operations will soon step down from his day-to-day role, but his influence will continue to shape the restaurant he helped create. Chef Nick Fine’s last day as culinary director will be November 14.

    The chef will step down to spend more time with his family, according to a release. He will remain a partner in Wild Oats, the company’s restaurant devoted to Texas cuisine that opened earlier this year at the Houston Farmers Market.

    "My time with Underbelly Hospitality has been one of the most transformative and influential experiences, and one that I will truly miss,” Fine said in a statement. “As anybody in the food and beverage industry knows, time passes in the blink of an eye, and with three young children at home, I look forward to devoting more time to them. Wild Oats will remain a top priority and I will be heavily involved as partner, continuing to oversee the menu and direction of the restaurant.”

    Fine, who initially joined the company as One Fifth’s chef de cuisine when it opened in early 2017, has served as culinary director since December 2017. During that time, he worked alongside Underbelly Hospitality founder Chris Shepherd to lead menu development for the company’s restaurants, which include luxurious steakhouse Georgia James, downtown’s GJ Tavern, Underbelly Burger, and Wild Oats.

    As a partner in Wild Oats, Fine took the lead in writing a menu he called a “love letter to Texas.” The chef researched many of the state’s diverse culinary traditions — diving into the history of chicken fried steak, for example — to put a fresh spin on dishes such as campechana, Medina County steak tartare (also known as parisa), and even Texas chili. Like all Underbelly concepts, Wild Oats’ dishes use primarily locally-sourced ingredients.

    “My idea [for] the menu is for everybody to get it,” Fine told CultureMap in February. “I don’t want everyone to be like ‘whoa, he’s doing all this crazy stuff.’ I just want everything to be really good food but also technically really sound.”

    Fine’s departure comes at a time of transition for Underbelly Hospitality. The company relocated Georgia James from its original home on Westheimer to an expansive new building in the Regent Square mixed-use development this summer. At the same time, Shepherd left the company to focus on the Southern Smoke Foundation, the non-profit he co-founded that provides emergency assistance to hospitality workers. Underbelly Hospitality will open Pastore, a new Italian restaurant, in 2023.

    “Our team is the core of Underbelly Hospitality, and Nick has been instrumental in developing and nurturing the talent we have today,” Underbelly Hospitality director of operations Nina Quincy said. “We value and respect Nick’s commitment to his family and are incredibly supportive of his desire to spend more time with his children.”

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    a major award

    Michelin-recognized Houston diner makes Bon Appetit best new restaurants

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 24, 2026 | 11:38 am
    Agnes and Sherman interior
    Photo by Jenn Duncan
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    The hits just keep on coming for Houston restaurant Agnes and Sherman. Bon Appetit has named the Asian American diner as one of its best new restaurants of 2026.

    Published Monday, April 24, the list includes 19 restaurants in 12 states and Washington, D.C. that opened between March 2025 and March 2026. In addition to Agnes and Sherman, Texas is represented by Le Calamar, a French-Texas bistro in Austin.

    Editorial operations manager Kate Kassin hails Agnes and Sherman for signature dishes such as a wedge salad that’s topped with youtiao croutons, lap cheong, and ginger-scallion ranch and the signature cheeseburger fried rice that’s made with shredded iceberg lettuce, two slices of American cheese, sauce, and sesame seeds.

    “It’s a mishmash of two iconic dishes in their own genres but, together, something wholly emblematic of the food that owners Nick Wong and Lisa Lee are putting forth,” Kassin writes.

    Opened in April 2025, Agnes and Sherman puts an Asian spin on the classic American diner. Its received significant regional and national praise, including being named Texas Monthly’s best new restaurant of 2026, as well as earning a James Beard Award finalist nomination for Best New Restaurant and a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Good Morning America recently featured the restaurant during a weeklong series on diners. During the segment, Wong and Lee announced they'd recently become engaged.

    At Le Calamar, Kassin finds first-rate stuffed chicken wings that are cooked on a Japanese binchotan grill. “Likewise, Wagyu hanger steak au poivre boasts a floral sauce that blends black, white, and Tellicherry peppercorns with garlic, brandy, cream, and ginger; it is a dynamic update on the classic,” she writes.

    Le Calamar opened in May 2025 in the former Underdog space. A nominee for best new restaurant in the 2026 CultureMap Austin Tastemaker Awards, the restaurant is known for its chic interior, warm service, and dishes such as gnocchi and and raw oysters with fennel mignonette.

    While Bon Appetit recognizes restaurants are facing challenges ranging from rising costs to AI disruption, the magazine takes an optimistic tone in the article’s introduction.

    “The restaurants we found the most exciting are, of course, delicious, but they were also fearless about challenging the playbooks by betting on community and creativity. These are the traits that help evolve modern American cuisine,” it writes.

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