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    chefs on the move

    Underbelly Hospitality's pivotal chef announces imminent departure from company

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 25, 2022 | 11:05 am
    Wild Oats Nick Fine

    Nick Fine will remain a partner in Wild Oats.

    Photo by Claudia Casbarian

    A key player in Underbelly Hospitality’s operations will soon step down from his day-to-day role, but his influence will continue to shape the restaurant he helped create. Chef Nick Fine’s last day as culinary director will be November 14.

    The chef will step down to spend more time with his family, according to a release. He will remain a partner in Wild Oats, the company’s restaurant devoted to Texas cuisine that opened earlier this year at the Houston Farmers Market.

    "My time with Underbelly Hospitality has been one of the most transformative and influential experiences, and one that I will truly miss,” Fine said in a statement. “As anybody in the food and beverage industry knows, time passes in the blink of an eye, and with three young children at home, I look forward to devoting more time to them. Wild Oats will remain a top priority and I will be heavily involved as partner, continuing to oversee the menu and direction of the restaurant.”

    Fine, who initially joined the company as One Fifth’s chef de cuisine when it opened in early 2017, has served as culinary director since December 2017. During that time, he worked alongside Underbelly Hospitality founder Chris Shepherd to lead menu development for the company’s restaurants, which include luxurious steakhouse Georgia James, downtown’s GJ Tavern, Underbelly Burger, and Wild Oats.

    As a partner in Wild Oats, Fine took the lead in writing a menu he called a “love letter to Texas.” The chef researched many of the state’s diverse culinary traditions — diving into the history of chicken fried steak, for example — to put a fresh spin on dishes such as campechana, Medina County steak tartare (also known as parisa), and even Texas chili. Like all Underbelly concepts, Wild Oats’ dishes use primarily locally-sourced ingredients.

    “My idea [for] the menu is for everybody to get it,” Fine told CultureMap in February. “I don’t want everyone to be like ‘whoa, he’s doing all this crazy stuff.’ I just want everything to be really good food but also technically really sound.”

    Fine’s departure comes at a time of transition for Underbelly Hospitality. The company relocated Georgia James from its original home on Westheimer to an expansive new building in the Regent Square mixed-use development this summer. At the same time, Shepherd left the company to focus on the Southern Smoke Foundation, the non-profit he co-founded that provides emergency assistance to hospitality workers. Underbelly Hospitality will open Pastore, a new Italian restaurant, in 2023.

    “Our team is the core of Underbelly Hospitality, and Nick has been instrumental in developing and nurturing the talent we have today,” Underbelly Hospitality director of operations Nina Quincy said. “We value and respect Nick’s commitment to his family and are incredibly supportive of his desire to spend more time with his children.”

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    oh bevin

    Houston bartender's new book celebrates cocktails and sexuality

    Craig D. Lindsey
    Apr 14, 2026 | 1:15 pm
    Bevin Biggers Aphro cocktail
    Photo by Troy Ezequiel Montes
    Bevin Biggers writes about sex and cocktails in her new book, Aphro.

    “There's a lot of stigma about sexuality, especially with black women.”

    Louisiana-born, Houston-based mixologist/multidisciplinary artist Bevin Biggers says as she’s flipping through the pages of her literary debut Aphro: A Cocktail Book on the Sexual Response Cycle. A veteran of Houston’s bar and restaurant scene, who has worked nightspots from Montrose to the Heights and collaborated with big-name alcohol brands (and who also isn’t afraid to call out shady establishments), Biggers has created a project that’s part cocktail manual and part Black, female sexuality manifesto.

    “We already have a lot of other s**t going on and then, on top of that, it's sex, too,” says Biggers, while sipping on a drink at a Midtown watering hole. She points out that, when it comes to media representation, Black women have been stuck with many stereotypical caricatures/portrayals throughout the decades: maids, baby mommas, lesbians, jezebels, sistas who are just plain ol’ angry. But as for Black women who freely explore their sexuality with no shame or repercussions, the culture usually comes up empty.

    “[White women] can be explorative and do all these different things. Black women do it and it’s ‘she’s a whore’ or whatever, right? So, all these caricatures kind of negatively impact how we live, and I talk about all of that here,” she says.

    Aphro originally began a decade ago as a bar concept. After years of becoming a pro in the mixology game, even honing her craft-cocktail skills while living in New York (where she became a fan of the city’s Museum of Sex), she wanted to make it a full-fledged business. Unfortunately, this hasn’t been a good time to open a bar (“Bars are expensive,” she confirms).

    Eventually, it morphed into a book project where Biggers drops sex talk, cocktail recipes, and surprising bits of African American history. “There's a lot of Black bartenders back in the day who freed their wives, their children, and themselves from slavery, using bartenderships,” she says.

    The sex lives of African Americans during and after slavery is a subject Biggers has done extensive research on. Last November, she gave her Substack readers an Aphro taste when she posted a lengthy study on chattel slavery and its impact on the orgasm gap. “It's still a real cocktail book – there are still many pages of recipes,” she assures. “But, here, I talk about stereotypes, caricatures of black women, the orgasm gap, chattel slavery, and how things almost connect to current times.” She also included a questionnaire she sent women regarding orgasms. “I asked very specific questions, and I got a lot of f—ed-up answers, which was the whole point ”

    Funded by a grant from Houston Arts Alliance, Biggers worked with Toronto-based Sure Print & Design to put Aphro into book form. She collaborated with local photographer Rosebeth Akharamen in serving up glorious color shots of the suggestively-named cocktails, made from “aphrodisiac ingredients,” Biggers had conceived.

    Drinks range from “Late Night Cinemax,” (consisting of mezcal, corn puree, chipotle honey, coconut, and a popcorn garnish) to “Locally Deflower” (which includes Texas sized herbs and “delicate floral notes to evoke a softer intimacy”). These 20 recipes are the result of Biggers spending over a decade getting to know more about classic cocktails and modern bartending techniques.

    “I come from Hiram Clarke, where it’s just Hennessy, Alize, Crown Royal,” she says. “And, then, when I came to start bartending, I was learning about Fernet and Montenegro and IPAs and good considerations of beers, and I was like, what the hell is all this? But I want to learn. I want to know what y'all know,” she says.

    We also get seductive shots of Biggers herself, all glammed up in several swanky locations, including her own living room. “I didn’t see any of these photos when she took them because we were in a rush, because of the makeup artists, and I had to do my makeup all over again,” she says. “So, this was all trust, and she knocked it out the park.”

    For Biggers, it’s all worth it if her fellow cocoa-colored beauties buy her book and start feeling more grown, Black, and sexy about themselves. “The inspiration is always being curious about this topic, but it was such a big deal in my community, of not wanting to be accused of being fast,” she says. “Even something that's mutual, it's always, what did you do to him? If it's kissing, it’s you kissed him, and it's not like, y'all kissed each other, you know. There was always punishment for something that's kind of natural. Then, when you're curious about something like that, you start to learn about it in dangerous ways… You learn through strangers, because your parents are not telling you anything about this stuff. You learn through movies. You learn through putting viruses on the f—ing computer, because you typed in the wrong thing, and now, the home computer, the family computer is f—ed up.”

    Biggers ordered a limited run of Aphro volumes that she sells on her website, which also has related merch like color prints and an adult coloring book. She still has dreams of turning her book into a watering hole one day. Until then, she’ll continue her mission of instructing women (and men) on how to stir up your sex life – as well as a stiff drink.

    ----

    Biggers will host an Aphro book release party/talk at Los Perros Cafe on Friday, April 17, at 7 pm. RSVP here.


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