that's phat

Award-winning Malaysian restaurant finally unveils new Woodlands location

One of the Houston area’s most acclaimed Asian restaurants opens its second location this week. Phat Eatery will begin lunch and dinner service this Wednesday, June 26.

First announced two years ago, the restaurant suffered numerous delays as it prepared to expand from its original location in Katy Asia Town. None were more significant than the death of founder Alex Au-Yeung, who succumbed to cancer in March. Directors of operations Kevin Lee and Marvin He, who have been part of Phat Eatery since it opened in 2018, are prepared to both maintain and expand upon Au-Yeung’s legacy. Specifically, Lee rose through the ranks at sushi restaurants before becoming a general manager with the Azuma Group, while He is the culinary mind behind dishes such as lobster dumplings and beef rendang Wellington.

“We’re so grateful to Houston’s chefs and restaurateurs, many of whom sent their condolences and offered to guide us through a lot of hurdles,” Lee said in a statement. “With the passing of Alex, a lot of things were delayed, but I’m thankful everyone has been more than understanding. I am sorry it took so long, but we’re here. We’re ready!”

The award-winning Malaysian restaurant had to perform extensive renovations to transform a 40-year old Fuddruckers in Grogan’s Mill into a modern restaurant that nods to Singapore and Malaysia (2290 Buckthorne Place in The Woodlands). Phat Eatery worked with Tramonte Design Studio on the 8,200-square-foot space.

Details include 24-foot ceilings, exposed cedar beams, and Chinese lanterns that hang over the wood-framed booths. An oversized neon sign that explains that “phat” means “highly attractive and gratifying” ties to the new location to the Katy original. Overall, the new restaurant seats almost 200 people, which includes two private rooms — the 75-seat atrium and a chef’s table room that seats 15 at a round party table that includes an electric Lazy Susan.

Behind the scenes, the Phat Eatery team visited restaurants in New York to get inspiration for designing the most efficient kitchen possible. Diners may not notice the separate stations for core dishes such as roti, dim sum, and Peking duck, but they’ll appreciate how efficiently the dishes arrive at their tables.

One thing that won’t change is Phat Eatery’s food. Diners can expect the same roti canai, kerabu prawn, curry laksa, beef rendang, and other fare that earned Au-Yeung a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in 2022.

Once the restaurant is more dialed in, He and Lee will fulfill Au-Yeung’s original vision for the menu by adding Chinese barbecue, including Peking duck, and expanding the restaurant’s dim sum offerings. Eventually, the restaurant will also add a bar menu that features fan-favorite specials such as salt-and-pepper chicken wings and the beef rendang burger that Au-Yeung created for a pop-up at CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year winner Burger Bodega. Although he isn't there to see it, the team is confident it is honoring Au-Yeung's legacy.

“If Alex were still with us, he’d say, ‘Finally. We got it open. Dreams really do come true,’” He added.

Phat Eatery opens daily at 11 am. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Jenn Duncan

Phat Eatery's location in The Woodlands opens June 26.

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2 staples shuttered

Downtown Italian restaurant and Upper Kirby wine bar suddenly close

Cru, seen here in happier times.

Inevitably, the end of the year brings a surprise closure or two, and 2024 is no exception. Both a staple downtown Italian restaurant and an Upper Kirby wine bar have quietly closed this week.

Sambuca closed after service on December 16, owner Kim Forsythe shared on Facebook. Open for 22 years in downtown’s The Rice apartment building, the restaurant was well known for its live music and lively atmosphere. While the restaurant had long been a staple for both downtown office workers and residents, it never fully recovered from the lingering economic changes brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic.

“In recent years, we've faced challenges that have tested our resilience,” Forsythe writes. “The changing climate of our city, with rising homelessness and crime, coupled with the lingering impacts of COVID and the resulting empty office spaces, has created a perfect storm that we could not weather. Though we fought with everything we had to keep our doors open, we're choosing to close this chapter with gratitude, carrying countless memories over the past 22 years.”

Crú Food & Wine Bar has closed its location in Upper Kirby’s Shops at Arrive development, according to a post former managing partner Annette Amaya on Instagram. In addition to the post about the closure, it is no longer accepting reservations via Open Table.

First opened in 2011, Crú earned a following for its eclectic wine list and a food menu that focused on familiar fare such as cheese and charcuterie boards and pizzas. Its location in The Woodlands remains open.

The Shops at Arrive have been busy this year with new openings. Staples such as Eddie V’s and Pondicheri have been joined by PostScript, a female-focused restaurant inspired by Dallas’ XOXO Dining Room, and Kira, an intimate hand roll bar from the team behind upscale omakase counter Neo.

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