Benjy Levit’s Local Foods Group isn’t afraid to switch things up. Building on their recent successes of transforming French restaurant Eau Tour into smash hit Italian restaurant Milton’s and wine bar Lees Den into cocktail bar Lee’s, the company has made some major changes to Maximo, its Mexican restaurant in the heart of West University Place.

Even though Maximo opened last spring as an evolution of El Topo, the food-truck-turned restaurant, changes needed to be made, LFP creative and culinary director Seth Siegel-Gardner tells CultureMap. Instead of a neighborhood-focused, fast casual restaurant that primarily serves taco and burgers, the company decided to transform Maximo into a more destination-worthy Mexican restaurant that better utilized the talents of 26-year old executive chef Adrian Torres.

“We were lucky enough to have Adrian here from the beginning, even before Local Foods Group joined the team here,” Siegel-Gardner says. “We have this amazing talent in the building. Why don’t we let him use his voice with the food? That’s what we’re getting with this new menu and the relaunch.”

Beginning this Wednesday, January 15, Maximo will reopen with a new menu created by Torres (with some guidance from Siegel-Gardner). While both Maximo and El Topo always nixtamalized corn for tortillas, the new iteration will lean more heavily into masa — a part of the menu Torres calls his “pride and joy” — with a dedicated section on the menu that includes a shrimp tostada, cochinita pibil sope, bean and cheese tetela, masa cornbread with butter and caviar, and more. Although the El Topo barbacoa taco is gone (at least for now), the tempura mushroom, brisket suadero, and crispy fish tacos all remain available.

While Torres, whose resume includes both Hugo Ortega’s Xochi and Michelin Bib Gourmand Belly of the Beast, wants his cuisine to utilize Mexican ingredients and techniques, he’s also eager to add in a few global touches that showcase his knowledge of Peruvian, Japanese, and French techniques. Tikin Xic Papillote is a riff on salt-crusted fish that uses a masa crust diners will crack open. Both a yakitori grill and smoker from Texas fabricator Mill Scale powers the menu’s smoked pork chop, grilled oysters, and roasted chicken. Taken together, they’re the kind of dishes that diners will likely want to experience during a three or four-course meal.

“I’ve learned what the space is capable of, what our guests really enjoy. I’m finally in a position where I can be heard on that opinion,” Torres says. “I always imagined this building as a hidden gem where people are driving through the neighborhood. They come here, they’re getting beautiful food, creative cocktails, a great wine list, and great hospitality. That’s something i’m really excited for.”

Helping deliver that great wine list and great cocktails are two other recent additions to Local Foods Group — wine director Mark Sayre, who came to the company from March, and director of bars Máté Hartai, a veteran of Tongue-cut Sparrow and Refuge. Siegel-Gardner images showcasing the restaurant’s food, wine, and cocktails in an affordable tasting menu.

“I want there to be a small, maybe five-course tasting menu that will rotate constantly as well,” he says. “You could do this quick, fast, rally interesting tasting through the menu. A five-course for $55 or $60. And then mixed-beverage pairings: agaves, a Mexican sake. [Mixed beverage pairings] were super popular at The Pass. I think it speaks to Adrian’s style of cooking, and we’re highlighting Máté and Mark from the team as well.”

To go along with the new menu, Maximo is also changing its hours. The restaurant will only serve dinner on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday with brunch and dinner available Friday-Sunday (closed Tuesday). All of these changes demonstrate the company’s willingness to keep tinkering until it finds something that resonates with diners as much as its namesake sandwich shop Local Foods does.

“I like to think that Local Foods Group concepts are ever-changing and always improving

to please the likes and palates of Houstonians and visitors,” Levit adds.”The extraordinary team we have in place can dream, pivot, and execute thoughtfully and swiftly, and I think others will see that principle at work with the changes at Maximo. We’re really proud to highlight, rally around, and complement chef Adrian’s creations through service, beverages, and more.”

  

Photo by Carla Gomez

Tikin Xic Papillote is a masa-crusted halibut wrapped in a banana leaf.