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    where to eat caviar now

    Top 10 Houston restaurants crafting modern and traditional caviar creations

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 17, 2024 | 1:10 pm

    Once relegated to only the most premium fine dining restaurants, caviar is now served on menus throughout Houston. More than anything, what defines the city’s current caviar moment is that chefs want diners to enjoy the experience in non-traditional ways.

    Yes, the familiar accompaniments are widely available — and remain popular — but many establishments have also distinguished themselves by swapping traditional blini and egg yolks for everything from potato dumplings to salmon skin chips to stroopwafels. Houstonians who want to order a full caviar service have plenty of options, but they can also get a more affordable taste via dishes such as a caviar tot or a caviar doughnut.

    Yes, it’s still expensive (good ingredients always are) but the message is that caviar can be fun. Even fine dining institution Tony’s is loosening up a bit, serving its caviar with an optional shot of vodka that’s chilled in a block of ice.

    a’Bouzy
    Just like its wine list, the champagne-fueled River Oaks restaurant sells its caviar at a lower markup to make it more accessible. On the first Friday of every month, that includes selling caviar at cost. Usually, the restaurant’s caviar is served with blini and traditional accompaniments, but diners have the option of adding Pringles or chilled vodka to upgrade the experience.

    Baso
    The Basque-inspired restaurant in the Heights has been earning raves for its unusual caviar service. Instead of blini, the restaurant makes a classic stroopwafel that's filled with a caramel that’s infused with an umami-heavy combination of kelp, bonito, shiitake, and niboshi (dried anchovy). Served with Lucky Layla butter from Houston Dairymaids, diners have three caviar choices: Siberian osetra, golden, or grandeur. The result is a compelling sweet-salty combination that earned a shout out from chef Justin Yu during CultureMap’s Ultimate Date Night draft.

    Berg Hospitality
    Six of the company’s concepts offer traditional caviar service — Annabelle Brasserie, The Annie Cafe, B&B Butchers, Emilia’s Havana, Prime 131, and Turner’s. Diners may choose from four options: Berg Hospitality Reserve (Royal White Sturgeon), $160; Kaviari Paris Baeri, $140; Kaviari Paris Kristal, $160; and Kaviari Paris Oscietre Prestige, $190.

    Caviar fans will want to keep their eyes on Turner’s Cut, the ultra-luxurious steakhouse that’s scheduled to open next month in the Autry Park mixed-used development. It will feature caviar carts loaded with Golden Osetra.

    Katami
    The Montrose-area Japanese restaurant offers caviar alongside its extensive sushi program. Both Kaluga and Osetra caviar are served in a sterling silver bowl where they’re paired with crispy salmon skin chips, cauliflower mousse, and chives. Upgrade the offering by adding Japanese uni.

    Little’s Oyster Bar
    Chef Jason Ryczek demonstrates his caviar enthusiasm by attending an invitation-only caviar camp where he selects the sturgeon that will be harvested for the restaurant’s caviar. Little’s pairs its caviar with potato dumplings, hush puppies, radish butter, onion jam, and chives. Recently, Ryczek added dressed oysters that are topped with hibiscus ponzu, green oil, and caviar.

    March
    As part of its Països Catalans menu that’s inspired by Catalan-speaking regions such as Catalonia, the Balearic Islands, Alicante and Castelló in Eastern Spain, and the principality of Andorra, chef Felipe Riccio and his team have developed a caviar service that includes smoked egg yolk, creme fraiche topped with black walnut leek emulsion and leek ash, a white asparagus and caper relish, and spiced almond and duck skin crumble. It’s available as the first course both the six and nine-course menus, as well as a standalone caviar service in the restaurant’s lounge.

    Navy Blue
    No surprise that Aaron Bludorn’s Rice Village seafood restaurant serves caviar in a variety of ways. Splurge on Siberian or Osetra varieties that are served with either blinis or mini potato pancakes. Caviar can also be added to dishes such as oysters (available raw, roasted, or fried), chilled shrimp, or added to kampachi tartare. The truly caviar obsessed should sample the Apple and Eggs dessert — a bowl of green apple sorbet and creme fraiche gelato that’s topped with Siberian caviar.

    PostScript
    Many meals at the Upper Kirby restaurant begin with its signature caviar doughnuts, but chef Bryan Caswell also has a more extravagant option available. The restaurant’s caviar service allows diners to build their own bites with a selection of vessels that includes celery root crème fraîche, mini buckwheat waffles, deviled quail eggs, a drinkable cauliflower cocktail, or oyster crackers. PostScript’s caviar selection includes American ghost pepper caviar, Israeli Imperial Golden Osetra, Californian White Sturgeon, and Siberian Osetra from Poland.

    Riel
    The restaurant’s signature caviar potato tots are just one option for those looking to enjoy the delicacy. Potato fans may also opt for truffle pierogi that are sauced with a caviar beurre blanc. For true devotees, consider the eye-catching caviar board that’s loaded with house cultured butter, egg yolk, egg white, chives, capers, and buckwheat blinis. Riel offers a rotating selection of caviar that currently includes Diamond Osetra, Imperial Osetra, Royal Siberian, and Kaluga Hybrid.

    Tony’s
    Since returning as chef-partner two years ago, Kate McLane has made caviar a staple of Tony’s offerings. The restaurant carries five different kinds of caviar and serves them five different ways:

    PostScript  caviar service
      

    Courtesy of PostScript

    PostScript's caviar service includes deviled eggs and doughnuts.

    Classic: Yukon gold blinis, red onion, creme fraiche, and egg yolk.
    Bread and Butter: A Russian-inspired take of brioche slices paired with Maison Le Gall, a cultured butter from Normandy

    Pasta Portonova: A tableside preparation in which an ounce of caviar is tossed with fresh tagliarini and a horseradish fish fumet
    The Ocean's Cup: Inspired by the pairing of oysters and caviar, this preparation features warm Prestige oyster froth with squash blossom frito misto

    Potato Robertson: One ounce of caviar served atop a tiny baked potato that is filled with Robuchon-style mashed potatoes

    “We do caviar flights all the time now,” McLane adds. “Listed on the website are a few types of flights, but we mix and match in the moment, too, so guests can pick and choose what they would like to try.”

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 459 and 460

    Meet the men behind Houston's most under-the-radar Italian restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 18, 2025 | 5:00 pm
    Fernando Rios Mike Sammons Mimo
    Courtesy of Mimo
    Chef Fernando Rios and sommelier Mike Sammons are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” sommelier Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Mimo, their Italian restaurant in the East End. The duo, whose history goes back to when they worked together at iconic Houston fine dining restaurant Da Marco, opened Mimo in 2023.



    The conversation begins with Rios explaining the progression of a career that took him from Backstreet Cafe to Da Marco to Weights + Measures, where he worked as the chef de cuisine while Sammons was a partner who oversaw the beverage program. Since they both live in the East End, they saw an opportunity to team up by claiming the former Kanomwan space on Telephone Rd.

    They discuss several aspects of the restaurant’s business, including Rios’ changes to the menu, the evolution of Mimo’s wine list, and how its been received by residents of the East End. A digression about Da Marco prompts Sandler to ask about its chef-owner Marco Wiles, who generally stays out of the media spotlight. Sammons shares that Wiles is the only chef or restaurateur who makes him nervous when he dines at Mimo.

    “He’s really not forgiving about things. This is very consistent with the Italian way of looking at things — there’s a right way to do things and that’s it. If it isn’t done that way, it’s wrong. A lot of my other mentors and friends can be more forgiving, but the standards Marco has kept for years has motivated me,” Sammons says.

    “He’s still the same way,” Rios adds. “That was insane to me. I thought, you get older, you’d be more relaxed, but the way he looks at you makes you nervous. Working in the kitchen, there was times he’d throw all my stuff away and say ‘start over.’”

    Was he right, Sandler asks.

    “Absolutely, yes. He was right all the time. I just think he was one of the best to do it,” Rios affirms.

    Listen to the full interview to hear both men discuss the one thing they’re most proud of about Mimo. They also discuss their plans for the future.



    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Houston’s finalists in this year’s James Beard Awards, the owners of Jūn adding a daytime concept called Third Place, and Aaron Bludorn promoting chef Allie Pena to be Bludorn’s new executive chef.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson visit Camaraderie, chef Shawn Gawle’s new restaurant in the Heights. They share their thoughts on the restaurant’s prix fixe menu, as well as its decor and beverage offerings.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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