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    No three-peat for Houston

    Houston chef will not be city's latest James Beard Award winner

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 11, 2024 | 9:29 am

    Houston came up a little short in this year’s James Beard Awards. Emmanuel Chavez, chef-owner of Spring Branch restaurant Tatemó, did not win Best Chef: Texas at the ceremony held on Monday, June 10.

    Instead, the prize went to Ana Liz Pulido of Ana Liz Taqueria in Mission, Texas. Located in the Rio Grande Valley, Pulido has earned wide acclaim for her tacos and other dishes made with nixtamalized corn, her precisely made salsas, and carefully prepared meats and other fillings. In a 2022 review, Texas Monthly taco editor José Ralat hailed the restaurant as “worth the pilgrimage for taco lovers.”

    As for Chavez, he still has the status of being a two-times Beard Award finalist, having been nominated in the Emerging Chef category in 2023. He’s earned considerable national attention for his restaurant, which serves a tasting menu built around dishes that use nixtamalized heirloom corn. In 2022, Esquire named it one of America’s Best New Restaurants, and last year Food & Wine selected Chavez as one of its Best New Chefs — the first time a Houston chef had earned that recognition since 2014. Tatemó won Restaurant of the Year in the 2024 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

    Considered the Oscars of the food world, the awards recognize chefs and other culinary professionals in a wide range of categories ranging from Outstanding Chef to Best New Restaurant. Winners are selected by the foundation’s Awards Committee that is made up of media members, former winners, and others. See the full list of winners here.

    If Chavez had won, it would have meant three years in a row that a Houstonian came home from Chicago with a medal. Last year, Benchawan Jabthong Painter won the award for her work at Street to Kitchen, and Southern-inspired cocktail bar Julep won Outstanding Bar Program in 2022. Other Houston chefs to win James Beard Awards include Robert Del Grande, Chris Shepherd, Justin Yu, and Hugo Ortega.

    Overall, it was a tough night for Texas chefs and restaurants, as Pulido was the state’s only winner. None of the nominees in the national categories took home prizes. They were:

    • Best New Restaurant: Barbs-B-Q, Lockhart
    • Outstanding Bar: Las Ramblas (Brownsville)
    • Outstanding Hospitality: Gemma (Dallas)
    • Outstanding Restaurant: Mixtli (San Antonio)
    • Outstanding Restaurant: Convenience West (Marfa)
    • Outstanding Chef: David Uygur, Lucia (Dallas)

    In addition to Chavez and Pulido, three other chefs were nominated for Best Chef: Texas:

    • Christopher Cullum, Cullum’s Attaboy (San Antonio)
    • Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel, Birdie’s (Austin)
    • Misti Norris, Petra & the Beast (Dallas)

    Here's a closer look at the other nominated Texas chefs:

    Christopher Cullum Attaboy James Beard Awards

    Photo by Getty Images for James Beard Foundation

    Christopher Cullum of Cullum's Attaboy in San Antonio.

    At Cullum’s Attaboy in San Antonio, chef Cullum serves a French-influenced breakfast and lunch menu. The restaurant’s fast casual format belies the fine dining aspects of its food, which include a burger topped with demi-glace, classic escargot, and rolled omelets adorned with freshly shaved truffles. Cullum, who famously began his career by washing dishes at his father’s River Walk jazz club, earned a nomination for Chef of the Year in the 2024 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

    At Birdie’s in Austin, chef Malechek-Ezekiel serves a constantly-changing menu based around seasonal proteins and produce. The restaurant blends a fast casual business model with a fine dining level of attention to detail and an extensive wine list. It has drawn lots of national attention, including being named a Best New Restaurant by both Esquire and Bon Appétit as well as 2023 Restaurant of the Year by Food & Wine and one of Austin’s 25 best restaurants by the New York Times. She won Chef of the Year in the 2024 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

    At Petra & the Beast in Dallas, chef Norris serves a menu built around locally-sourced ingredients, including meats that are butchered in-house, an extensive charcuterie program, and lots of fermented items. It has earned widespread national recognition, including Best New Restaurant recognition from both Food & Wine and Texas Monthly and a Food & Wine Best New Chef award in 2019. Norris won Chef of the Year in the 2019 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, and Petra & the Beast won Restaurant of the Year in the 2024 Tastemaker Awards.

    The awards were presented at the Lyric Opera in Chicago. The foundation also presented media awards on Saturday, June 8.

    ----

    Full disclosure: CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler is a voter in the James Beard Awards. Brandon Watson, Teresa Gubbins, and Amber Heckler contributed to this story.

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    wine guy Wednesday

    Chris Shepherd suggests 6 Houston wine dinners to support hospitality workers

    Chris Shepherd
    Mar 18, 2026 | 2:00 pm
    Southern Smoke decanted 2025
    Photo by Daniel Ortiz
    Southern Smoke Decanted is sold out, but Chris has other wine dinner suggestions.

    What’s happening team! I have some amazing events coming up for you to dive into.

    Southern Smoke Decanted is coming up in just a few weeks. The event itself is completely sold out, but you have some opportunities here to do some cool things and drink some cool wines!

    First, the auction will be available for anyone to participate in and have access to amazing bottles and experiences. For year three of Decanted, we’re hosting six wine dinners around the city, and you will want to kick yourself later for not attending.

    I absolutely love a wine dinner. Just think about this for a minute, chefs letting their creative juices flow to pair with fantastic wineries pouring all the delicious wines that they spend so much time perfecting. As a chef, these were some of my favorite nights of service. It always let me break away from the menu and let me just create.

    First, I want to thank each restaurant and each winery for choosing to be a part of these dinners and committing to helping the food and beverage industry in a very meaningful way. If we, as people that love to eat food and drink things, can come together to make sure that the people that are producing these things can feel our support by helping to build the much needed safety net, then we can all sleep better at night.

    Imagine that world for a minute because it all boils down to one word, access. Access to something that cooks, waiters, farmers, distillers, winemakers, and anyone else in the F&B industry have never really had. Imagine what it’s like to make sure that someone’s rent has been paid, their child’s doctor’s appointment has been covered, or speaking to a therapist before making a decision that will alter an entire family’s day-to-day life.

    You can help to make that change just by going to a dinner. Wow, that’s powerful. We always say that the restaurant is the place you go to celebrate, to relax, to not have to cook, to go through the drive-through on the way home when your kids are yelling at you for chicken nuggies and that person that opens the window and hands you a bag of hot-and-crispy items. Your stress has been relieved, but the person who handed you that bag of joy is in full turmoil over not having money for rent, food, or medicine. As an industry, these fantastic humans are always there to take care of you, but who takes care of them? It’s that easy, you can literally save a life without even knowing it.

    So let’s get into the details! The Marigold Club will host an amazing Hirsch dinner featuring nine different bottlings! Attendees will taste rosé, Chardonnay, and six different Pinot Noirs. I’ve written about Hirsch previously, and it’s my wife’s absolute favorite, no questions asked. The Hirsch Vineyards are some of the most iconic in the world and produce such beautiful wines. You can literally see the Pacific Ocean from their vineyards.

    Bludorn is up next with a magical evening with the iconic Littorai who produces some of the most delicious Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sonoma and Anderson Valley. Aaron sent me their menu, and it looks so good!

    If you would like something elegant but casual, visit the newest restaurant on our list, Star Rover. Chef Bobby Matos and team are hosting the folks from the Napa Valley legend Spottswoode. They are going to be throwing an awesome oyster roast party with other snacks for folks with that delicious Sauvignon Blanc and the Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon. This is more of a banger party than a sit-down dinner, so it’s time to choose your adventure!

    Musaafer will host Houston’s own Dr. Revana as they pour wines from the beautiful Alexana estate in Willamette Valley with its Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Teo blocks of Pinot Noir. Then Dr. Revana will take us on a ride down to Napa Valley for the 2018 and 2019 vintages of the esteemed Revana Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. I can only imagine what Michelin-starred chef Mayank has planned for this amazing evening. Get down!

    Speaking of Michelin stars, I guess they aligned because chef Luis Roger of BCN Taste & Tradition will be hosting the teams from Raventós i Blanc and Can Sumol for a whimsical evening at MAD. I’ve seen the menu and pairings and I will be very jealous of everyone going to this one. This menu is just fun!

    Last but not least, my dear friend chef Ryan Lachaine and the team at State Of Grace will be pouring wines from the legendary Paul Hobbs. At this dinner, you get to try wines from all over the place, starting with Hillick and Hobbs Riesling from Seneca Lake in upstate New York. Then we move into wines from Argentina, Spain, and Napa Valley. I mean c'mon! I know how chef Ryan cooks and I can’t wait to see what he throws down for you guys with this one!

    These evenings will be a celebration of food, wine, and the beautiful industry that takes care of us on a daily basis. For one minute imagine a world without food service where we’re left to grow and cook our own food, ferment our own wine, distill our own bourbon. That sounds very challenging and very hard. Let’s take a little time to honor these amazing people and go to a wine dinner! You owe it to yourself. I’ll see you out there!

    ----

    Send Chris an email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $15 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2 or on YouTube.

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