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    bringing it all back home

    Houston's mad scientist chef resurrects his modern restaurant in Kemah

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 26, 2025 | 6:20 pm

    Houston chef David Skinner is switching things up at his Kemah complex. The chef, who earned a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for his Native American-inspired tasting menu concept Ishtia, is bringing back Eculent, his modernist tasting menu concept — sort of.

    Instead of reviving Eculent’s original concept of a theatrical, 20-plus course tasting menu, a new name, Eculent Restaurant + Liquid Lab, points to its new iteration as a cocktail bar and restaurant with an inventive approach to drinks that are paired with tapas-style small plates, including some of the fan favorite bites. Before diving into the details, let’s clarify a few salient points.

    First, when it opens on October 1, Eculent Restaurant + Liquid Lab will occupy the space that had been dedicated to Th Prsrv, the historical tasting menu restaurant Skinner opened in partnership with James Beard Award-winning chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter and her husband Graham Painter of Street to Kitchen. While Th Prsrv has served its final meal, Skinner emphasizes that his personal and professional relationship with the Painters remains strong and the trio will collaborate again in the future.

    Second, when Skinner announced his plan to close Eculent and replace it with Ishtia, he said at the time that he was ready to move on after a successful 10-year run. Although Ishtia’s menu is grounded in Native American techniques, including some that Skinner adapted from his Choctaw grandmother's recipes, he continued to use modern elements such as sous vide to maximize the ingredients’ flavors. While Eculent lived on at large-scale private events, both the chef and his customers realized they missed the experience of dining there on a regular basis.

    “I have a decade’s worth of customers who’d say ‘I miss the Caesar salad. I miss the BLT. I wish you’d bring it back,’” Skinner tells CultureMap. “I kind of missed making them.”

    Specifically, he started making cocktails that were inspired by his visits to some of the world’s most innovative cocktail bars. They include familiar flavors like a blackberry mojito and rosemary gimlet as well as more avant garde offerings like the Floating Fire, which is served in a Tesla coil and paired with cotton candy.

    The food menu starts with some of the small bites that had been part of Eculent’s experience, including the Caesar salad, the smoking mushroom soup, and the BLT. Skinner has also dreamed up some new creations like a duck in mole taco on a house made red corn tortilla and and a beef Wellington flatbread.

    Diners who opt for the Taste of Eculent will receive 13 bite-sized dishes for $75. Skinner jokes that it could appeal to people taking GLP-1 medications that limit their appetites.

    “The DNA of Eculent never went away,” Skinner says. “Sabbatical is the best way I can describe it. We’ve kept the science-driven whimsy, layered with inspiration from the world’s best bars. We have a much more interesting story to tell now. Story telling is more front and center with this version of Eculent. That comes from the experience with Ishtia.”

    In addition to being a la carte rather than a tasting menu, Eculent 2.0 will also distinguish itself in the ordering experience. Skinner has created a website and app that allows diners to control every aspect of their meal — choosing not just what they order but when it will arrive. If someone isn’t interested in any of the cocktails on the menu, they can create their own custom concoction. If Skinner and Eculent’s staff like it enough, they’ll put the drink on the menu and name it after its creator.

    “The app allows guests to create a completely bespoke experience. If you don’t like what we have on the menu, create your own. The goal is that we get a lot more regular guests,” he says.

    “We may have an AI component where you can tell it [about your day and your tastes], and it will say, ‘here’s a cocktail we recommend or here are some bites we recommend,’” he adds.

    Eculent cocktail bar interior

    Courtesy of Eculent

    The interior has a whimsical design.

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    Goldee's and Barbs Go North

    2 Michelin-recognized pitmasters cooking up Texas barbecue joint in NYC

    Brianna Caleri
    Feb 26, 2026 | 4:46 pm
    Goldee's barbecue tray
    Photo by Will Milne
    Kirbee's will stay true to the menus at the two barbecue joints that came before it. (Pictured: A tray at Goldee's Bar-B-Q)

    Two important restaurants in the Texas barbecue scene have spawned a new project in a less-expected locale: New York City. Barbs B Q owner Chuck Charnichart and former Goldee's Bar-B-Q partner Jonny White will open Kirbee's, a restaurant combining classic dishes from both of its progenitors, at 55 McGuinness Blvd. South in Greenpoint (a neighborhood in Brooklyn) in about four to five months, White says.

    Both White and Charnichart have led two of Texas's most well-regarded barbecue joints. Located in Fort Worth, Goldee's ranked No. 1 on Texas Monthly's list of the state's 50 best barbecue restaurants in 2021 and ranked No. 3 on the 2025 list. Charnichart, who worked at Goldee's, opened Barbs B Q in Lockhart in 2023. Earlier this week, Barbs earned an impressive three-star review in the New York Times. Both restaurants hold Bib Gourmand designations in the Michelin Guide.

    Eater New York broke the news on February 24, and White caught CultureMap up with some additional written details.

    As Eater points out, Charnichart brings creative dishes from her Lockhart restaurant like pork ribs with lime zest, Mexican-spiced brisket, and the famous "green spaghett" made with poblanos and cilantro. White brings lauded barbecue from Fort Worth that's more fit for purists, including smoked turkey, brisket, and classic sides.

    For many, Barbs B Q represents the Texas barbecue vanguard. Now New Yorkers will be in on it, too.Photo by Bryce Gilbertson

    White further tells CultureMap that the menu will probably be organized into plates and trays so that guests can sample one barbecue joint or the other.

    White has been in New York for seven months after selling his shares of Goldee's. He's secured a building and is working with contractors to convert it for barbecue greatness. The two pitmasters will get to work together physically soon — although White doesn't spill the beans about whether Charnichart plans to move there or just visit.

    Kirbee's exterior New York Kirbee's will take over this cheerful space.Photo by Jonny White

    "Chuck is one of my best friends and an amazing chef," White says. "I’m super excited for us to be working together again and we are excited to be in New York!"

    One of the adjustments the duo had to make to thrive in the Big Apple is to make do with a smaller smoker setup. Instead of traditional offset smokers — the large barrels Texas foodies are used to seeing out back at their favorite barbecue joints — Kirbee's will use smoker ovens. White confirms the decision was about space, but he's hopeful the more consistent cooking process will actually be better than the Texas norm. "I think it will be interesting for people to compare," he says.

    The real question for barbecue-lovers who are in it for the culture: How will New Yorkers deal with the lines?

    "I think they’re used to long lines and being served to order because of Katz," White says, referring to Katz's Delicatessen, an ultra-famous New York deli since 1888 that's known for its gigantic pastrami sandwiches. But if it's not the brisket that transports Yankees to the Southwest, the Texas pitmaster looks forward to introducing them to Waco's own Big Red.

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