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    big bagel shop changes

    Longtime Houston Jewish bagel bakery dishes on its major kosher and name changes

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 30, 2022 | 12:04 pm
    Bagel Shop Bakery assorted
    The bagel shop is making some big changes.
    Courtesy of The Bagel Shop Bakery

    A bakery that’s a staple of Houston’s Jewish community has dropped its kosher certification, but its sister location will continue to be kosher compliant. The Bagel Shop Bakery on Hillcroft will no longer be kosher as of October 1, but the Bellaire location will remain under the supervision of both the Houston Kashruth Association (HKA) and the Mehadrin Kashrus of Texas (MKT).

    To emphasize the change, the Hillcroft bakery will be known as New York Deli, which is also the name of its adjacent coffee shop and cafe. Bellaire’s kosher certified bakery will continue to be called the Bagel Shop Bakery.

    Partners Michael Saghian and Riana Sherman tell CultureMap that they worked with both MKT and HKA before making the decision to drop the kosher certification at the Hillcroft location but maintain it in Bellaire. The recipes will remain the same at both locations, but the baking at the Hillcroft location will no longer be performed under the supervision of kosher authorities, which is a requirement for those who observe Jewish dietary laws.

    Previously, the Hillcroft location had been both kosher certified and open on Saturdays, but that changed when co-founder Ed Gavrila retired last year. Without someone who isn’t Jewish as an owner, the kosher authorities required the bakery to close on Saturdays for the Jewish Sabbath as well as all Jewish holidays. That caused a downturn in business that needed to be rectified.

    “This decision is purely a business decision,” Sherman says. “Being closed on a Saturday and for all the Jewish holidays, it really has hurt us this past year.”

    Similarly, keeping the Hillcroft bagel shop open on Saturdays should boost business at the cafe next door, which has never been kosher-certified — as anyone who’s ordered a side of bacon with their breakfast knows well. Still, the bakery and the deli have a symbiotic relationship that was disrupted by the bakery being closed.

    “What I learned was the bakeries tie into the restaurants,” Saghian says. “We’re a bagel shop over everything. The bagel differentiates who we are as a restaurant. If you remove the bagel, the restaurant will be slow.”

    Keeping the Bellaire location of the Bagel Shop Bakery as kosher certified also made sense from a business standpoint. First, that’s where the company’s wholesale operations are based, which allows it to supply kosher-certified bagels and other baked goods to synagogues, schools, and other Jewish facilities. Second, since it was designed from the beginning to be a kosher bakery and cafe, it also has a larger menu of sandwiches, breads, and pastries to serve the kosher community.

    “When we built the Bagel Shop Bakery in Bellaire, we knew we wanted to be held to HKA/MKT standards, learn from their leaders and have them guide us to be the best we could be for the community,” Saghian added in a statement. “The Bagel Shop Bakery and HKA are working together in creating new and exciting additions to the Bellaire location. Through new menu items, potential dinner pop-ups, new catering menus, etc., we are building upon what has worked in the past and creating a better future.”

    The New York Eatery, the Bellaire bakery’s companion, non-kosher restaurant, will remain open daily as it has since it opened last year. It serves a broader menu of breakfast, lunch, and dinner items than the Hillcroft deli location.

    “At the end of the day, people expect a fresh bagel,” Saghian says. “That’s what Ed and Jay have always preached. You make a bagel today. You eat a bagel today.

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    One Day Only

    Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

    Eric Sandler
    May 12, 2026 | 5:00 pm
    Josephine's crawfish Lucas McKinney
    Photo by Quit Nguyen
    Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

    The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

    Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

    • Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
    • Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
    • Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
    • Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

    The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.


    LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

    “Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

    McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

    “With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

    LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

    “It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

    Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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