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What's Eric Eating Episode 28

Legendary Houston chef looks at city's restaurant future, value of lists in food podcast

CultureMap Staff
Nov 20, 2017 | 11:44 am

Legendary Houston chef Robert Del Grande joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler on this episode of CultureMap's podcast, "What's Eric Eating." Sandler and Del Grande discuss the chef's decision to bring back the name Cafe Annie and the recent changes at the restaurant that have brought wood-grilled steaks and oysters to the forefront of its menu.

Towards the end of the conversation, Sandler asks Del Grande, the city's first James Beard Award Best Chef: Southwest winner and a part of the city's dining scene for almost 40 years, what he would like to see happen over the next five or 10 years.

"Is that a true/false question or an essay question," Del Grande jokes. "I guess what I would really like to see — what is it? A fear? A concern? — is not to lose the sense of magic of food or restaurants or people cooking. I think sometimes cell phones have depreciated our sense of magic . . . so then to think of all that cooks are doing and so forth, it's still kind of a miracle. It still has a magical quality to it."

At about the 48 minute mark, Del Grande, Sandler, and co-host Nathan Ketcham use Cafe Annie's removal from Chronicle critic Alison Cook's list of the top 100 Houston restaurants as a jumping off point to discuss the value of lists, Del Grande's feelings about them, and the idea that food writers should be required to work at least one shift washing dishes in a restaurant.

Prior to Del Grande joining the show, Sandler and Ketcham discuss the news of the week. Topics include Dyanmo star Brian Ching's plans to open a soccer-themed sports bar in EaDo, LePeep's plans to relocate, and the fire that has temporarily closed Heights restaurant Southern Goods.

In the restaurants of the week segment, the hosts share some first impressions of Pappas Delta Blues Smokehouse and the ups and downs of a recent visit to Grimaldi's Pizzeria in CityCentre.

Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

Robert Del Grande is this week's guest on "What's Eric Eating."

Taste of the NFL Robert Del Grande Cafe Annie
Photo by © Chuck Cook Photography
Robert Del Grande is this week's guest on "What's Eric Eating."
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don't call it a comeback

Veteran Houston chef's vibrant new cafe now open at the Menil Collection

Eric Sandler
Jun 30, 2026 | 2:52 pm
Chroma restaurant food
Photo by Becca Wright
Flautas and campechana are both available at Chroma.

Visitors to The Menil Collection once again have a compelling, on campus dining option. Chrôma, the new restaurant from veteran Houston chef and restaurateur Claire Smith, is now open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Located in the former Bistro Menil space (1512 Sul Ross), Chrôma (styled in press materials as the all-lowercase “chrôma”) is an all-day cafe that serves Smith’s signature take on globally inspired comfort food.

"I'm honored by the trust the Menil Foundation has placed in me," Smith said in a statement. "Chrôma will be a space that reflects the creativity and warmth of the Menil community — a place where visitors, neighbors, and art lovers can gather, dine, and connect."

Smith worked with architect Dillon Kyle to transform Bistro Menil into Chrôma. The interior features a 30-foot sculptural bar that consists of seven kinds of marble in a butcher block pattern. The main dining room features a wood ceiling with bright orange felt leaves. Diners who opt for the 500-square-foot patio will have a view of the Menil’s celebrated Jack sculpture by Houston artist Jim Love.

"The space is an allegorical landscape," Kyle explained. "We have created a light and airy space that brings in the existing nature and landscape, aiming for a casualness that is comfortable to all.”

The menu will feel familiar to anyone who visited Smith’s previous establishments such as Shade, Canopy, and Alice Blue. Weekday breakfast includes classic egg dishes — think a green egg frittata; a bacon, egg, and cheese breakfast sandwich; chilaquiles; and Smith’s signature quiche. Pair them with freshly baked pastries that include croissants, scones, danish, and a gluten-free chocolate chip cookie.

During lunch and dinner, meals start with appetizers, including Japanese eggplant, fried green tomatoes, cheese and charcuterie plates, deviled eggs, and campechana that’s made with shrimp and crab. From there, diners can pick one of six salads, including a chicken cobb, and entrees that run the gamut from a BLT to a cheeseburger, chicken flautas, and pan-seared red snapper in a Thai red curry sauce. Weekend brunch, served from 10 am-3 pm on Saturday and Sunday, offers many of the dishes from both the breakfast and dinner menus.

Considered one of Houston’s earliest advocates for using locally sourced ingredients on a menu, Smith opened Daily Review Cafe, her first restaurant, in 1994. She followed it with Shade, which debuted in the mid-aughts on 19th Street in the Heights. It earned a devoted following for its Southern-inspired comfort food such as the signature shrimp and grits.

In 2017, she transformed Shade into the European-inspired Alice Blue, with an assist from chef Jason Vaughan and beverage expert Sean Jensen — the duo who would go on to earn a Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide for Nancy’s Hustle. She also operated all-day concept Canopy on Montrose Boulevard from 2009-2019.

Last year, Smith told CultureMap that she never planned to retire when Alice Blue closed in 2024. She was simply looking for the right opportunity to return to the dining scene.

“When the opportunity arose to open a project on the Menil campus, I jumped on it,” she said.

Chrôma opens daily at 7 am.

Chroma restaurant food

Photo by Becca Wright

Flautas and campechana are both available at Chroma.

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