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    What's Eric Eating Episode 119

    The smokin' truth about Washington Avenue BBQ, plus first taste of a global restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 8, 2019 | 1:06 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Truth Barbeque pitmaster-owner Leonard Botello IV joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss his Washington Avenue restaurant that opened in January. Already ranked 10th by Texas Monthly for his original location in Brenham, the Houston Truth has quickly emerged as one of the city's best barbecue joints.

    The conversation touches on a number of topics, staring with the charity dinner that Truth will host Wednesday, November 13 on behalf of No Kid Hungry; in addition to Botello, the meal will feature courses prepared by chefs Nick Wong (UB Preserv), Bobby Matos (State of Grace, La Lucha), Rebecca Masson (Fluff Bake Bar), and Feges BBQ owners Erin Smith and Patrick Feges. Tickets are available for $175.

    From there, the discussion moves to Truth's evolution since opening in Houston. Botello once smoked every piece of meat he served, but the larger spaces means the self-described "control freak" has had to train a full staff that can execute his vision. Building that team allows him both the opportunity to travel to food events across the country and to contemplate opening a new restaurant.

    "I like the intimacy of smaller places. If you can't get in somewhere, that's where somebody wants to go eat, and it's more fun when you're closer together and the food is great. I always thought it'd be fun to have something like that," Botello says. "My brother finishes at the Culinary Institute in August. Hopefully, we'll be able to do something . . . I'm not going to say it will be barbecue."

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and Felice Sloan of Swanky Maven discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the sudden closure of Steel City Pops, Oporto owners Shiva and Rick Di Virgilio's plans to open a new restaurant and wine bar in The Heights; and the openings of Tejas Burger Joint and The Waffle Bus.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, they share first impressions of Traveler's Table, the newly opened Montrose restaurant that serves dishes from around the world. While some early reviews have rejected the global approach, Sandler and Sloan found much to like about their meal.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 7 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Leonard Botello IV is this week's guest.

    Truth BBQ Leonard Botello IV
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    Leonard Botello IV is this week's guest.
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    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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