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    where to eat right now

    Where to eat in Houston right now: 9 best restaurants serving up something new

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 30, 2019 | 10:05 am

    Everything old is new again. Not to be cliche, but that old saying really feels true at this particular moment in the arc of Houston restaurants.

    This month's list of new restaurants to try features six establishments that are both old and new. Either they're existing establishments with new menus and designs or they're rebranded and updated takes on previous concepts. Some of these efforts are more successful than others, of course, but all are designed to induce diners into giving consideration to a place they might have otherwise overlooked.

    Restaurant revivals aren't the only new options to choose from. A California-based Top Chef Masters winner has channeled his great grandmother's spirit at downtown's buzziest new hotel, and a Chinatown veteran has opened the capstone concept of his ambitious, four-year project to transform a shopping center into a destination for cuisines from four different Asian countries.

    As always, these restaurants are in the order I think you should try them based on my experiences dining there. Please enjoy.

    One Fifth Gulf Coast
    After boldly exploring Mediterranean cuisine for One Fifth’s third iteration, Chris Shepherd’s decision to focus on the Gulf Coast for “four-fifths” seemed a little, well, obvious. After all, both Shepherd and Underbelly Hospitality culinary director Nick Fine are Brennan’s alums; they could practically shuck oysters and make snapper pontchartrain in their sleep.

    Thankfully, One Fifth Gulf Coast exceeds expectations thanks to its high-low mix of cuisine. Get down and dirty with fried popcorn shrimp, “gas station snacks” that are usually fried boudain balls or similar, or the wildly over the top Captain’s Platter, a literal boat laden with seafood that’s One Fifth’s version of Georgia James’ baller board. Diners may also skip the fryer entirely by opting for stone crab claws, jambalaya for two, or the delicate, surprisingly flavorful wood-roasted flounder almondine.

    Creative cocktails and pastry director Victoria Dearmond’s down home desserts — don’t miss the coconut cake — help round out the experience. 1658 Westheimer Rd.

    Rosalie Italian Soul
    For his first Texas restaurant, star chef Chris Cosentino channels his great-grandmother’s spirit. The restaurant’s design takes cues from her kitchen in ’70s-era Providence, Rhode Island, while the menu offers an updated take on Italian-American fare.

    Executive chef Sasha Grumman, who worked for Cosentino at Cockscomb in San Francisco, leads the kitchen. Highlights from a recent visit include the local vegetable frito misto with whipped ricotta, classic pepperoni pizza with a pleasantly chewy crust, and blue crab manicotti that get an extra shot of briny ocean flavor from lobster sauce Americane.

    Pastry chef Valerie Trasatti’s confections, including delicate, orange-flavored cannoli, make leaving room for dessert mandatory. 400 Dallas St.

    The Annie Cafe
    Cafe Annie has changed before — it relocated from its original home on Westheimer to Post Oak and San Felipe then to its current home in BLVD Place — but the changes at the 38-year-old go far beyond its flip-flopped name. Working with chef Robert Del Grande, new owner Ben Berg (B&B Butchers, B.B. Lemon, etc) and operating partner Sam Governale (Emmaline) have injected the restaurant with a lighter, brighter interior and a younger sensibility demonstrated with new plating designed to be Instagram worthy.

    Berg relocated the stairs to create the space for second floor bathrooms and the space’s massive, oval-shaped bar. The patio has also been reworked to allow diners to watch the street scene pass by on Post Oak.

    Some of Del Grande’s signature dishes remain (coffee-crusted filet, wood-grilled rabbit, tortilla soup), but the new items follow Del Grande’s core philosophy of preparing great ingredients in a way that enhances them. Scottish salmon comes with a savory black lentil stew, and the familiar long bone ribeye arrives in an eye-catching presentation: sliced on the bone and topped with pickled onions, cilantro, and cotjia cheese. Daily specials, ranging from fried seafood on Monday to prime rib on Thursday, help keep things fresh and offer more affordable alternatives to the entrees. 1800 Post Oak Blvd.

    Benjy’s
    Admittedly, the 20-year old restaurant isn’t new, but a smart redesign by Aaron Rambo (Local Foods, The Classic) and a new menu of shareable dishes that features contributions from chef Seth Siegel-Gardner (The Pass & Provisions) have provided this Rice Village staple with some much needed new energy.

    Siegel-Gardner fans still mourning the loss of Provisions will recognize the chef’s touches on dishes ranging from oven-roasted carrots with salsa verde and sea urchin carbonara to a Texas twist on tortellini in brodo — smoked bone broth with dumplings filled with brisket from Blood Bros. BBQ. French toast stuffed with red beans and topped with miso caramel makes for a decadent dessert option, but the savory beet cake with whipped goat cheese just didn’t register as dessert for me.

    Essentially, this transformation is what restaurateur Benjy Levit could have done with Benjy’s on Washington; instead of a full rebrand, as Levit did when he created The Classic, Benjy’s in Rice Village keeps its old name but may otherwise be unrecognizable to long time fans wondering what happened to their crunchy chicken plate (sorry not sorry). Staying relevant in a world where even six month-old restaurants struggle for attention can’t be easy, but diners who had written off Benjy’s previously (*raises hand*) would be well-served by a return visit. 2424 Dunstan Rd.

    Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine
    Speaking of restaurants that aren’t quite new, Eugene’s may have a new name and a new location in the former Mockingbird Bistro space, but owner Kyle Teas has essentially imported the menu and most of the staff from Danton’s, his popular Creole restaurant that closed at the end of 2018.

    That’s good news for people who missed signatures like crab Danton, oysters Montrose, and shrimp Kyle. All of those are more, think pecan-crusted snapper and seafood courtboullion, are present and accounted for.

    Teas’ wife, Clare Teas, and sister-in-law, Christa Yates, have decorated the 70-seat oyster bar with vintage family photographs. Antique mirrors from the Teas family help make the 80-seat main dining room feel larger and more open. 1985 Welch St.

    Toukei Izakaya
    Mike Tran has gone all out for the sixth and final restaurant he’s opened in a Chinatown shopping center. Toukei attempts to transport diners to Japan with vintage Japanese signage, wooden booths, and an open kitchen that shows off the cooks working the grill.

    The menu covers a broad spectrum of izakaya favorites, roughly divided among hot and cold appetizers, sashimi, yakitori skewers, ramen, and larger entrees. Even across two visits, it would be impossible to sample them all, but soy duck breast, chicken thigh with green onion, and crispy chicken skin are all worth ordering. As these visits occurred shortly after opening, we detected some issues with both seasoning and cooking, but Tran’s track record suggests they’ll be resolved quickly (if they haven’t been already).

    Toukei is as much bar as restaurant, and lots of attention has been lavished on the drinks. A tap dedicated to highballs made with Suntory whisky serves as the starting point for the beverage options, but the selections also include sake, shochu, spirits, and an extensive selection of Japanese whisky. The truly rare stuff — such as Hibiki 21 and Mars Komagatake non-chill filtered — is only available by the bottle, which would mean a group would need to commit a whole evening to finishing it off. Plan accordingly. 9630 Clarewood Dr.

    Gen Korean BBQ
    Jinya Ramen franchisee Jim Wang has brought this California-based Korean barbecue restaurant to the former Holley’s location in Midtown. Unlike most Korean barbecue restaurants that offer a la carte pricing, Gen’s all-you-can-eat (in two hours) model means diners may choose from a wide selection of meats for just $17 at lunch and $25 at dinner. The low price does come with some trade offs — specifically, the bowls of banchan are pretty small (although they will be refilled) and diners are mostly on their own to cook the various cuts of beef, pork, and chicken — but the overall value is very high.

    Whereas a recent dinner at Bori cost about $200 for 3 people, a meal at Gen, even with a beer or two, would be half that. So load up on classics like bulgogi, marinated short rib, and thinly sliced brisket, bring friends who are willing to help with the cooking, and enjoy one of the least expensive beef feasts inside the Loop. 3201 Louisiana St.

    Studewood Cantine
    Occupying the former Los Cucos location near the corner of 11th and Studewood, this restaurant fulfills its role as a neighborhood Tex-Mex spot with enough TVs to make it a game day destination. Chile con queso delivers the right, gooey texture; my combination plate of a chicken flauta, a green chile enchilada, and a beef taco al carbon satisfied all the usual Tex-Mex cravings for an eminently reasonable $13. Sometimes, that’s good enough. 1111 Studewood St.

    Ginza Japanese Restaurant
    The Briargrove staple has a new look and a new menu courtesy of Harold Wong, an Uchi alum who has spent the past few years leading The Fish in Midtown. Wong took over Ginza this summer, bringing his fresh perspective on contemporary, Japanese-inspired cuisine. Featured dishes include: tuna “nachos” with raw tuna on wonton chips topped with avocado, pico, and tobiko; hamachi with tomato, candied jalapeño, and yuzu soy; and a wagyu beef patty melt.

    It may cause sushi purists to twitch, but Wong isn’t claiming to offer Houston’s most authentic Japanese experience — just a fun, flavorful one. That makes it an excellent fit for a neighborhood full of young families who might enjoy a sushi dinner without all the fuss and, critically, at a lower price than some of its Inner Loop competitors. 5868 San Felipe St.

    Pork, chicken, and shrimp jambalaya at One Fifth Gulf Coast.

    One Fifth Gulf Coast pork, chicken and shrimp jambalaya
      
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Pork, chicken, and shrimp jambalaya at One Fifth Gulf Coast.
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    Houston chef Tristen Epps dishes on his Top Chef victory — and what's next

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    Award-winning Houston cocktail bar diverts to new home in Montrose

    and the winner is...

    Innovative Houston chef is the city's newest James Beard Award winner

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 17, 2025 | 6:00 am
    James Beard Awards 2025 Thomas Bille Belly of the Beast
    Photo by Getty Images for James Beard Foundation
    Thomas Bille is Houston's newest James Beard Award winner.

    Add another Houston chef to the city’s growing list of James Beard Award winners. Thomas Bille, chef-owner of Belly of the Beast in Spring, earned Best Chef: Texas at the James Beard Foundation’s Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony.

    Held at the Lyric Opera of Chicago on Monday, June 16, Bille was one of five finalists for the award, along with fellow Houstonian Emmanuel Chavez (Tatemo), Emil Oliva (Leche de Tigre in San Antonio), Regino Rojas (Purépecha in Dallas), and Michael Anthony Serva, (Bordo in Marfa). Neither of Houston’s other finalists — Mexico City-inspired cafe Casaema (formerly known as Ema) for Best New Restaurant and fine dining tasting menu restaurant March for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program — earned awards in their categories.

    A Los Angeles native who moved to the Houston area to be closer to his wife’s family, Bille took a winding path to his James Beard Award. He opened the first iteration of Belly of the Beast in 2020 as a chef-driven taqueria that was known for its ceviches and birria tacos. He then spent about a year at Chivos, an ambitious but short-lived Mexican-American restaurant in the Heights.

    In late 2023, he and his wife Elizabeth opened a new version of Belly of the Beast in a Spring shopping center. It showcased a broader array of Bille’s skills, with a wide-ranging menu that pulled from global flavors — lamb shank rendang, anyone? — that included meat, seafood, and pastas. The new restaurant quickly earned wide acclaim, including a Bib Gourmand in the 2024 Michelin Guide and CultureMap Tastemaker Award nominations for both Restaurant of the Year and Chef of the Year.

    “I feel a depth of gratitude,” Bille tells CultureMap in a text message. “Knowing that my wife and I were able to reopen on our own terms. Gratitude for my family, staff, and guests to give us love and support. It is much appreciated.”

    In an interview from the ceremony shared by the James Beard Foundation, Bille paid tribute to his wife, Elizabeth, for her role in the restaurant’s success.

    “The risk that my wife and I took to open this restaurant is more than worth it. My wife left her industry, she was a national director for nonprofit organization,” he said. “I said, ‘We’re going to reopen Belly of the Beast. I need you with me side-by-side the whole time.’ The first iteration she held down her job and supported us. With her at my wide, I’m able to focus on the kitchen, on the food, and mentoring my cooks. Able to see the bigger picture instead of just being in the weeds all the time.”

    Bille is the second Houstonian to win Best Chef: Texas, joining Street to Kitchen chef-owner Benchawan Jabthong Painter, who won in 2023. Since the category of Best Chef: Texas has only been awarded since 2022, Bille is the first man to earn the title. Prior to being its own region, the James Beard Foundation included Texas in the Southwest, where chefs Robert Del Grande (Cafe Annie), Chris Shepherd (Underbelly), Justin Yu (Oxheart), and Hugo Ortega (Hugo’s) all won awards.

    The only other Texas finalist to win his category was Arjav Ezekiel of Birdie's in Austin, who became the first winner of Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service, one of three beverage-oriented categories the foundation added for 2025.

    In addition to Bille and Ezekiel, Texam Chad Houser, founder of Cafe Momentum in Dallas, received the Humanitarian of the Year Award. Toni Tipton-Martin, a Houston-based author, scholar, and journalist, received the Lifetime Achievement Award. Houstonian Alba Huerta, who won Outstanding Beverage Program for her bar Julep in 2022, presented one of the night’s awards.

    “It’s with deep celebration that we congratulate the 2025 Restaurant and Chef Award winners — distinguished culinary, beverage, and hospitality leaders whose talent and vision are shaping our dining landscape,” said Clare Reichenbach, CEO, James Beard Foundation, in a statement. “These outstanding professionals are the epitome of ‘Good Food for Good,’ elevating our industry’s standards and redefining what’s possible in American cuisine.”

    James Beard Awards 2025 Thomas Bille Belly of the Beast
      

    Photo by Getty Images for James Beard Foundation

    Thomas Bille is Houston's newest James Beard Award winner.

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    Houston chef Tristen Epps dishes on his Top Chef victory — and what's next

    Intimate Houston cocktail lounge adds European-inspired outdoor patio

    Award-winning Houston cocktail bar diverts to new home in Montrose

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