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    First Taste

    Home to the Cougar Den and competition for Reef: Say hello to the new Eddie V'sat West Ave

    Sarah Rufca
    Oct 19, 2010 | 2:11 pm
    • V Lounge which has already been dubbed the Cougar Den.
      Photo by Daniel Ortiz
    • The dining room at Eddie V's is a swank setting.
      Photo by Daniel Ortiz
    • The tuna steak at Eddie V's
    • Eddie V's oysters on the half-shell
    • Chef Robert Rhoades of Eddie V's Prime Seafood
      Photo by Daniel Ortiz

    There's something about Eddie V's that really sets it apart. Maybe it's the waiters in the throwback white short coats — a visual reminder that you aren't just eating out, you are having an experience.

    Maybe it's the flawless design. But I think it's the slightly off-putting realization that every detail has been considered and nothing has been spared in the effort to create a pitch-perfect dining experience.

    At the newly opened West Ave Eddie V's, the basic structure of the Eddie V's at CityCentre has been maintained, with a few upgrades. The entrance still opens to the raw oyster bar, but the main bar area has been more integrated into the restaurant with an added elevated lounge seating area next to the rich, textured blue-and-black walls. While the TVs playing sports draw the men and the jazz pianist in the back holds the attention of couples, the lounge is already being dubbed the Cougar Den.

    The dining room features bench banquette seating for a more modern, urban feel and the dim lighting is perfect for forgetting that you aren't the only people in the room. I love that the open kitchen is viewable through windows the length of the wall, but glassed off so that the kitchen activity is seen and not heard. The vibe is lively, but not loud, with private rooms that can be opened or hidden as the occasion and capacity dictate, and the live music piped in from the bar area is a nice touch.

    We started with the Wagyu beef hot rock, six thin strips of raw beef ready to be flash-cooked on a piping hot stone at the table, then dunked in a light soy sauce. The interactive experience added a playful bent to the meal, and the results were quite tasty.

    For a main course the Louisiana red fish cooked meunière style with lump crab was mouthwatering. The fish was cooked perfectly and served in a generous portion. When the fish, the crab and the sauce were assembled into a single bite, the result was a truly mesmerizing combination of sweet, savory and zesty. This is as good as classically prepared seafood gets.

    The Pacific Ahi tuna was requested as rare as possible and came out as a cool cube accented with shiitakes, scallions and a mild wasabi-lime vinaigrette. But on tasting the pure, tangy flavor of the tuna took the lead, showcasing restraint in preparation and top-quality ingredients.

    We ordered (or perhaps demanded is a more accurate word) the bananas foster cake, which has sent me into paroxysms of sugary glee in the past. But this time there was a less than perfect flaming liquor pour, and not all the ignited liquid made it onto the cake. The melted side was gooey and delicious, but we had to leave an overly dry half behind. It was the one flaw in an excellent meal.

    Eddie V's certainly knows their market, and executive chef Robert Rhoades has mastered the balance between creating beautiful dishes and letting the premium ingredients speak for themselves. It's hard to imagine a better fit for West Ave.

    If Reef has been the sole standout for upscale seafood in the inner Loop, it has some competition.

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    news/restaurants-bars

    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Ronnie Killen sets closing date for his Michelin-rated comfort food eatery

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 22, 2026 | 9:48 am
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, Ryan Hildenbrand
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, and Ryan Hildenbrand at the 2025 Texas Michelin Guide ceremony.

    Since the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Texas, it has been rare for any included restaurant to close, but Killen’s, chef Ronnie Killen’s Southern restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation, will serve its final meals on Sunday, July 19.

    Open since 2020 in the space previously occupied by Hickory Hollow, Killen’s serves a Southern-inspired menu based on chef Killen’s family recipes. That includes chicken fried steak and fried chicken, as well as Killen’s signature items such as barbecue and smoked pork belly bites. Last year, chef Killen recruited chef Ryan Hildebrand (formerly of Triniti) to elevate the menu and upgraded the restaurant with new furniture, dinnerware, and silverware.

    All of which is to say that chef Killen’s decision to sell the property for $3.5 million to a new owner — who plans to convert it into a gas station — comes as a bit of a surprise. As he tells CultureMap in an exclusive interview, a number of reasons played into the decision.

    Why Killen’s is closing

    First, the chef has been consolidating his operations over the past few years. Closing Killen’s follows the 2023 closure of Mexican-inspired Pearland restaurant Killen’s TMX; the 2024 shuttering of Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; and the 2025 closures of both of his restaurants in The Woodlands, Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue.

    As Killen has discussed before, a number of injuries and surgeries have limited his mobility and caused him considerable pain. A couple months ago, he had another back procedure that’s left him unable to bend over to tie his shoes but has improved his overall health.

    “The chronic pain was so much worse than it was [before the surgery]. I’m not taking drugs everyday not to be in pain,” Killen says.

    In addition, the chef’s confidence in the restaurant’s location has also waned due to increased crime in the area. In one particularly bizarre incident, he spent $8,000 to remove graffiti by a mentally unstable woman who accused the restaurant of causing harm to her stuffed monkey.

    “When I first bought the place, I could walk to H-E-B and get stuff. I was never asked for money. or worried about getting held up,” he says. “Now, i get asked for money three different times on every corner. I think the area has gotten worse.”

    Finally, despite the Michelin recognition and new energy chef Hildebrand brought to the restaurant, it simply hasn’t performed as well financially as it needed to in order to stay open. The money he’ll make from selling the land is far more than the restaurant will earn, even over the next couple of years.

    “If the place were doing $10 million a year, I would have looked at the restaurant value instead of the land value,” Killen says.

    Ryan Hildebrand’s perspective

    Chef Hildebrand understands Killen’s business decision to cash out and move on. He went through a similar process at Triniti, his critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurant that closed in 2017. He’s committed to staying with the restaurant until it closes — at which point, he’ll be looking for a new job.

    “I’ve been an owner,” Hildebrand says. “I’ve owned the real estate. When someone makes you an offer and the restaurant isn’t doing what you wanted, you have a decision.”

    Ultimately, Hildebrand thinks the changes he made — including adding more seafood and other items to move the restaurant slightly upmarket — confused regular customers who just wanted the restaurant’s original dishes and heaping portions.

    “The challenge was to not shock the system too harshly. To hang onto the clientele that was existing and that was loyal. They were entrenched in barbecue,” Hildebrand says. “We had to maintain the identity and at the same time change things. We probably needed to rebrand the whole show. Shut it down. Change the name. Change the menu.”

    Still, he's proud of the work he did in the eight months he spent at the restaurant, and he's eager to take on his next challenge.

    "I definitely want to stay in Houston," he says. "We’re home. We’re much happier. The search starts now. You can announce it. I am wildly available."

    Closing Killen’s will leave Ronnie Killen with just five restaurants — three locations of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, Cypress, and Hobby Airport; Killen’s Burgers in Pearland; and Killen’s Steakhouse, which is currently closed for renovations that Ronnie Killen hopes will help it earn a Michelin star (more on that in the weeks to come).

    “It’s just business and timing,” Killen says. “Trust me, it’s very hard. That place means so much to me. It was built with recipes that my grandmother and my godmother made. It was the food I ate as a kid that made me want to become a chef.”

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    news/restaurants-bars

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