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    Southern Smoke Wrapup

    Celebrity chefs go whole hog with smoked brisket and snapper, too, at barbecue street party

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 12, 2015 | 8:48 am

    Underbelly chef/owner Chris Shepherd had a pretty good Sunday. His beloved Houston Astros defeated the Kansas City Royals in the playoffs and the hated Dallas Cowboys suffered a humiliating 30-6 defeat at home to the New England Patriots. Perhaps most importantly, Shepherd, three visiting celebrity chefs and some of Houston's brightest culinary minds raised almost $184,000 for the National MS Society at the inaugural Southern Smoke charity barbecue event.

    James Beard Awards winners like Aaron Franklin of Austin's Franklin Barbecue and Sean Brock of Husk Restaurant (Nashville and Charleston) and McCrady's (Charleston) don't participate in many festivals, but they couldn't say no to Shepherd when he asked for their assistance, along with celebrated South Carolina pitmaster Rodney Scott, to make Southern Smoke a reality.

    In addition to the illustrious trio of out-of-towners, a group of Houston chefs — Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan from The Pass & Provisions, Oxheart's Justin Yu and Ryan Pera of Coltivare and Revival Market — joined Shepherd for some elevated riffs on barbecue as part of the debut of the HOUBBQ Collective. The combination of out of star power and high profile Houston chefs set Southern Smoke apart from the annual Houston Barbecue Festival, which focuses on mostly local barbecue talent.

    "You know we’re to the point where we could do a festival everyday if we said yes to everything," Brock told CultureMap. "I think at the end of the day one of the great things about being a chef is helping friends when they ask for help, and also to be able to ask for help when you need help. We can do all that through food, and that’s what’s so cool, you know? We’re just cooks, but we’re able to help so many people and we’re very fortunate."

    Franklin conceded that "I don't do any festivals," but made an exception for Southern Smoke.

    "From time to time, a homie calls (and says), ‘Hey, I want to do this thing. I want to raise money for this. I want to invite this buddy and this buddy. Do you want to hang out?’ 'Absolutely, I wouldn’t miss it for the world.' That’s pretty much all it takes. A homie calling up and saying, ‘do you want to hang out?’ 'Yup, I’ll be there. What day, what time, how many people?'"

    Greatest challenge

    Scott had perhaps the day's greatest challenge — serving his signature whole hog to Texans who revere beef brisket. "I think we’ll make it," he said with a laugh. "I’ve heard there wasn’t a lot of pork in Texas, but hopefully we’ll start converting them today."

    The visiting chefs received help from a high-profile group of culinary assistants including Main Kitchen executive chef Erin Smith, El Big Bad executive chef Jonathan Jones and Prohibition culinary director Ben McPherson. Southern Goods sous chef Patrick Feges furthered the interest in whole hog he demonstrated at the Houston Barbecue Festival by assisting Scott.

    "He pays close attention," Scott said of Feges, who won the CultureMap Tastemakers Rising Star Chef of the Year award in May. "He’s learning, and he’s putting in everything he needs to know. He helps both physically and mentally."

    In addition to whole hog and a constant line for Franklin's signature brisket, attendees feasted on Brock's snapper on the half shell with ndjua butter, smoked beef shoulder from Underbelly, smoked foie gras mousee and duck from The Pass & Provisions, smoked sticky rice tamales from Yu and smoked tongue and cheek hot dog with chili, chow chow and cheddar from Pera.

    For Siegel-Gardner, participating in Southern Smoke is an extension of the way he and Gallivan have been using more smoke at their restaurant. "We’ve tried to smoke just about everything possible. Smoked brats we’ve been doing come out really nice. Smoked short ribs that we’ve been doing with a pepita sauce. We do a lot of smoked vegetables for both The Pass and Provisions," he said.

    Those who missed it shouldn't feel too left out. After presenting the MS Society with a check on behalf of sommelier Antonio Gianola, whose MS diagnosis prompted the event, Shepherd vowed to make Southern Smoke an annual festival. We can't wait.

    Whitney Mercilus and Chris Shepherd.

    Whitney Mercilus and Chris Shepherd at Southern Smoke
    Photo by © Michelle Watson/CatchLightGroup.com
    Whitney Mercilus and Chris Shepherd.
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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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