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    New Montrose Hangout

    Free Press guys set to open a new Montrose neighborhood bar — with a surprise "cool" chef

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 1, 2013 | 1:29 pm

    It's early Monday evening. Omar Afra, of Fitzgerald's and Free Press Summer Fest, is standing in the half-completed interior of Lowbrow. That's the bar he and business partner Johnny So are set to open soon in the former Sophia/Cafe Artiste space in Montrose.

    "We're just trying to create a cool space and environment," Afra tells CultureMap as he surveys the walls that have been painted but not yet fully papered. There are a few tables scattered around, but all of the chairs and benches are being redone.

    Afra says the goal is to work with "cool people who know shit from shinola" in all aspects of the bar's construction and operation, including design, art, food and drinks.

    Lowbrow looks set to be Montrose's next comfortable neighborhood bar.

    "We want to allow good people to have their way with the space," he says. "The great thing is you get people to do great things, but the bad thing is there's trial and error."

    It's a compromise Afra's willing to live with. For design, the group tapped Dutch Small, who designed the cool, comfortable, fun VIP tents at Summer Fest.

    In terms of artists, Afra wants Lowbrow, which is named after an art movement, to be a "permissive environment." Towards that end, there are lots of familiar names from other Free Press projects. Blake Jones and Dual have partnered to create a wallpaper that incorporates iconic Houston images such as the Astrodome and the Houston Oilers derrick logo. Yes, there's the obligatory foil variant.

    Shelby Hohl has created a series of posters featuring famous dead Houstonians including Anna Nicole Smith and Patrick Swayze, and Jermaine Rogers will display work in the space as well. Michael Rodriguez gets first crack at the front fascia, and videographer Mark Arms will develop content for the bar's projectors.

    Eatsie Boys chef Matt Marcus is developing a menu that Afra says is based on "recipes that have been proven through millenia . . . dishes that grandmothers cook." Afra cites biscuits and gravy as one classic recipe that will find its way onto Lowbrow's menu, but he also promises to deviate from the theme with both daily specials and guest chef pop-ups. Afra says that they partnered with Marcus because of his "cool, let's try it" approach to cooking.

    Afra and Fitzgerald's bar manager Travis Tobey have partnered up on a short cocktail menu that he describes as "four to six hits . . . We want to be a place for day drinkers," particularly when the weather is nice and people flock to lounge on The Menil Collection's expansive lawns. In addition, there will be about a dozen taps of local craft beer.

    Finally, there won't be an Internet jukebox pumping out the latest hits at Lowbrow. Instead, they're installing a turntable that will have a large, well-curated record collection. Patrons are invited to choose an album to listen to or to bring something from their own collections.

    If they don't? "I'll be in here dominating shit," Afra says.

    With a well-regarded creative team behind it and lots of high profile collaborators, Lowbrow looks set to be Montrose's next comfortable neighborhood bar. Afra cites Rudyard's as the sort of place he'd like to emulate, and there's nothing wrong with having another place like that.

    Omar Afra poses in front of Low Brow's custom wallpaper that was designed by local artists Blake Jones and Dual.

    Low Brow bar under construction October 2013 WITH GUY
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Omar Afra poses in front of Low Brow's custom wallpaper that was designed by local artists Blake Jones and Dual.
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    where's eric eating

    CultureMap editor's 10 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in November

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 2, 2025 | 5:13 pm
    Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

    November’s dining adventures across Houston consisted of only a couple of new restaurants, an upscale, contemporary Chinese restaurant in River Oaks; an ambitious neighborhood eatery in Garden Oaks; and a buzzy barbecue spot on the border of Conroe and The Woodlands.

    The month also provided me with an opportunity to visit a veteran chef in his new home, catch up one of the city’s new additions to the Michelin Guide, and sample a po’ boy from the rising star chef behind Houston’s hottest new burger joint.

    As a reminder, this list isn’t ranked. I liked all of these dishes for different reasons.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in November.

    Lobster Fettuccine at State of Grace
    Chef Ryan Lachaine is off to a strong start as the executive chef of the River Oaks restaurant. The lobster fettuccine — pasta made in-house, of course — features a generous portion of seafood along with a lobster-infused sauce americane. In addition to a couple of Riel favorites, the caviar tots and the butter burgers, he’s also introduced a cheese fondue that matches the menu’s Continental-influenced, retro vibe.

    Birria Beef Pacchei at Lazy Lane
    The newly opened Garden Oaks restaurant is putting a Houston spin on classic Mediterranean dishes. In this entree, house made pasta is paired with braised beef cheek, radishes, salsa verde, and herbs, turning the building blocks of barbacoa tacos into a form that fits the ambitious neighborhood restaurant. Other highlights from the meal included Spanish meatballs and crispy skin ocean trout over beet risotto.

    Deviled Crab at Credence
    One of the 14 Houston restaurants added to the Michelin Guide for 2025, the live fire restaurant near Memorial City Mall serves this dish instead of a crab cake. Blue crab meat gets sauteed in smoky tomato butter for a bite that’s sweet, smoky, and satisfying. Pair it with the grilled snapper for the full Gulf Coast seafood experience.

    Peking Duck at Maison Chinoise
    This contemporary Chinese restaurant from the company behind Toulouse and Lombardi Cucina Italiana is already winning fans in River Oaks. The Peking duck, a speciality of chef Jordan He, delivers tender meat, crispy skin, and paper-thin crepes that are worthy of any version served around town. Pair it with some of the restaurant’s extensive dumpling selection for the full experience.

    Branzino at Okto
    Chef Yotam Dolev recently updated the menu at this Mediterranean-influenced Montrose restaurant. Seared to achieve a crispy skin, the flakey white fish sits in a tomato-gazpacho broth with fennel and olives. Don’t miss the signature frena bread and Greek salad.

    Shrimp Po’ Boy at Boo’s Burgers
    One perk of moving from pop-up to brick-and-mortar is that it allows Boo’s Burgers chef-owner Joseph Boudreaux to indulge creative impulses such as a rotating Friday fish special that’s currently this sandwich. Loaded with a generous serving of crispy, well-fried shrimp, the sandwich is simply dressed shredded lettuce, tomato, and the chef’s smoky burger sauce. Get it before Boudreaux moves on to another special.

    Veal Piccata at Fielding’s River Oaks
    The River Oaks restaurants is fond of fusion flavors, and its take on veal piccata is no exception. Instead of the usual lemon-caper sauce, Fielding’s serves its veal in a richer mushroom cream sauce with fall-friendly caramelized apples and creamed spinach. It’s a heartier take on the classic that’s well-suited to winter’s recent arrival.

    Barbecue at Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Thai fare meets Texas at this restaurant on the border of The Woodlands and Tomball. The house made sausages are a standout, particularly the beef-and-basil and German hotlink, particularly when dipped in the restaurant’s tangy nam jim jaew. While the brisket and ribs could’ve used a little longer in the smoking, a weekend prime rib special with a crispy crust and well-rendered fat already has me contemplating a return visit.

    Shrimp Tacos at Cochinita & Co.
    At this restaurant in the East End, plump shrimp are paired with a sweet and spicy pineapple pico and a morita aioli, then wrapped in house made corn tortillas. Good ingredients and precise execution — the shrimp are cooked gently enough to retain a springy texture and mild sweetness — make them some of my favorite tacos in Houston. A side of the vegetarian black beans make for a tasty companion.

    Tonkotsu Gachi at Japanese Ramen Gachi
    Influenced by Shawn the Food Sheep, I visited the two-year-old Med Center-area restaurant for dinner. The signature tonkotsu features a well-seasoned, milk-colored broth with deep pork flavor and major umami punch. Paired with some karaage it made for a very satisfying dinner — just be aware that the Food Sheep’s flock may overwhelm the restaurant’s ability to serve diners quickly.



    Charm Taphouse & BBQ

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

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