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    Introducing Neo Baguette

    Worldly new restaurant spices up The Heights with a dash of Moroccan flair

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 11, 2018 | 3:55 pm

    When it comes to new, interesting restaurants, The Heights continues to lead other parts of Houston. While area residents are probably still lining up for Calle Onze or eagerly awaiting the arrival of Superica and La Lucha, a new cafe that deserves attention is quietly preparing to open this week.

    Meet Neo Baguette and its owner Karim Kasri. A native of Morocco, Kasri went to culinary school in France before moving to New York, where he served as the general manager for several restaurants. He moved to Houston to open his new cafe in a former auto parts warehouse at 201 East 20th St.

    “I spent 10 days checking out Texas,” Kasri tells CultureMap. “Houston is the right place for me and my family. It’s a family town with parks for the kids. Something about Houston kept me [here].”

    That “something” could be the building. Kasri has restored the brick walls and added wood paneling on the walls. A couple of chandeliers in the middle of the dining room and orange leather banquettes along the walls add an elegant touch. The building even inspired a change in the menu.

    “Neo Baguette, it was supposed to be a sandwich place with salads,” Kasri says. “Then, once we have this place, it’s such a nice building. We said, let’s make it more interesting.”

    Kasri blended his heritage with his training to create recipes that are built around French and Italian classics with a little Moroccan spice. Billed as an all-day cafe, the menu features sandwiches and salads at lunch with a few larger plates at dinner. Breakfast is on the table but won’t be available at launch.

    The menu still starts with sandwiches and salads. Kasri will get his baguettes from Kraftsmen Baking. They provide a platform for sandwiches such as the Poulet Classique (sliced chicken breast with avocado, portabello mushroom, roasted bell pepper, manchego) and the Moroccan-inspired merguez sausage with sauteed mushrooms, olives, eggplant spread, and parmesan. Salad options include a quinoa with avocado and baby zucchini and candied beets with cherry tomatoes and goat cheese.

    Since every menu in 2018 needs a toast or two, Neo Baguette offers an avocado option with a poached egg and cherry tomatoes as well as a smoked salmon toast with goat cheese, fried capers, and a sunny-side-up egg.

    Kasri brings more of his Moroccan heritage to the dinner menu. A classic Cornish game hen gets cooked in a tagine and is served with preserved lemon. Similarly, Moroccan spices season both a salmon filet and its bed of sauteed spinach. Even a bowl of tagliatelle pasta with smoked salmon gets a little saffron for added flavor.

    Diners are welcome to BYOB, or they can opt for a selection of drinks from a grab-and-go cooler. The restaurant also features its own blend of coffee that Kasri developed with Katz Coffee.

    Almost all of the menu items are in the $10-15 range, which should make Neo Baguette the kind of spot people can come to once or twice a week. A kids’ menu adds to the restaurant’s utility.

    Heights diners have been quick to embrace affordable restaurants that serve a wide variety of needs. If Kasri and his team can execute consistently, they should have a hit on their hands.

    A look inside.

    Neo Baguette interior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    A look inside.
    openingsthe-heightsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

    bringing it all back home

    Houston's mad scientist chef resurrects his modern restaurant in Kemah

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 26, 2025 | 6:20 pm
    Eculent cocktail bar interior
    Courtesy of Eculent
    Eculent is reopening October 1.

    Houston chef David Skinner is switching things up at his Kemah complex. The chef, who earned a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for his Native American-inspired tasting menu concept Ishtia, is bringing back Eculent, his modernist tasting menu concept — sort of.

    Instead of reviving Eculent’s original concept of a theatrical, 20-plus course tasting menu, a new name, Eculent Restaurant + Liquid Lab, points to its new iteration as a cocktail bar and restaurant with an inventive approach to drinks that are paired with tapas-style small plates, including some of the fan favorite bites. Before diving into the details, let’s clarify a few salient points.

    First, when it opens on October 1, Eculent Restaurant + Liquid Lab will occupy the space that had been dedicated to Th Prsrv, the historical tasting menu restaurant Skinner opened in partnership with James Beard Award-winning chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter and her husband Graham Painter of Street to Kitchen. While Th Prsrv has served its final meal, Skinner emphasizes that his personal and professional relationship with the Painters remains strong and the trio will collaborate again in the future.

    Second, when Skinner announced his plan to close Eculent and replace it with Ishtia, he said at the time that he was ready to move on after a successful 10-year run. Although Ishtia’s menu is grounded in Native American techniques, including some that Skinner adapted from his Choctaw grandmother's recipes, he continued to use modern elements such as sous vide to maximize the ingredients’ flavors. While Eculent lived on at large-scale private events, both the chef and his customers realized they missed the experience of dining there on a regular basis.

    “I have a decade’s worth of customers who’d say ‘I miss the Caesar salad. I miss the BLT. I wish you’d bring it back,’” Skinner tells CultureMap. “I kind of missed making them.”

    Specifically, he started making cocktails that were inspired by his visits to some of the world’s most innovative cocktail bars. They include familiar flavors like a blackberry mojito and rosemary gimlet as well as more avant garde offerings like the Floating Fire, which is served in a Tesla coil and paired with cotton candy.

    The food menu starts with some of the small bites that had been part of Eculent’s experience, including the Caesar salad, the smoking mushroom soup, and the BLT. Skinner has also dreamed up some new creations like a duck in mole taco on a house made red corn tortilla and and a beef Wellington flatbread.

    Diners who opt for the Taste of Eculent will receive 13 bite-sized dishes for $75. Skinner jokes that it could appeal to people taking GLP-1 medications that limit their appetites.

    “The DNA of Eculent never went away,” Skinner says. “Sabbatical is the best way I can describe it. We’ve kept the science-driven whimsy, layered with inspiration from the world’s best bars. We have a much more interesting story to tell now. Story telling is more front and center with this version of Eculent. That comes from the experience with Ishtia.”

    In addition to being a la carte rather than a tasting menu, Eculent 2.0 will also distinguish itself in the ordering experience. Skinner has created a website and app that allows diners to control every aspect of their meal — choosing not just what they order but when it will arrive. If someone isn’t interested in any of the cocktails on the menu, they can create their own custom concoction. If Skinner and Eculent’s staff like it enough, they’ll put the drink on the menu and name it after its creator.

    “The app allows guests to create a completely bespoke experience. If you don’t like what we have on the menu, create your own. The goal is that we get a lot more regular guests,” he says.

    “We may have an AI component where you can tell it [about your day and your tastes], and it will say, ‘here’s a cocktail we recommend or here are some bites we recommend,’” he adds.

    Eculent cocktail bar interior

    Courtesy of Eculent

    Eculent is reopening October 1.

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