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    Sneak peek at Riel Restaurant

    Sneak peek: Ambitious chef's genre-bending restaurant arrives in Montrose January 3

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 29, 2016 | 3:03 pm

    Despite its messy appearance on Wednesday morning — workers finished paving the parking lot and the boxes scattered around the interior — Riel Restaurant is ready to open. The eagerly anticipated new project from Underbelly and Reef chef Ryan Lachaine makes its public debut January 3 at 5 pm.

    The former Te House of Tea space has been given a clean, modern transformation with polished concrete floors, dark wood accents, and simple wooden tables and chairs. At only 65 seats, it feels intimate, but the large windows along Fairview allow plenty of light.

    The gleaming bar beckons with a full line of Scotch, bourbon, Canadian whiskey, and other spirits. Expect to see the bathrooms on Instagram thanks to murals by local artists Lee Carrier and Alex Roman that pay tribute to the restaurant’s namesake, Canadian historical figure Louis Riel, and the Manitoba region’s Métis population.

    “I’m so happy with how it came out,” Lachaine says about the build out. “I can’t say enough about how happy I am with the location and the size of the place. It’s literally exactly what I was looking for.”

    The neighborhood seems pleased, too. Lachaine says a woman has been stopping by almost every night with freshly baked cookies.

    Previously, Lachaine has been reluctant to provide too many details about Riel’s food, but he’s finally ready to divulge how the restaurant's 15 item menu will blend his Canadian and Eastern European heritage with the Southern and Asian influences he's absorbed in Houston. One entree consists steak from 44 Farms with pierogies and another riffs on Montreal-style smoked beef with housemade mustard and rye. Starters include raw oysters topped with granita and a Japanese-inspired Gulf fish karaage with a ranch dipping sauce.

    Diners will be able to splurge on caviar service or a large ribeye with a full complement of sauces and accompaniments — everything from homemade steak sauce to two fried eggs. Of course, some dishes are still being developed.

    “We’re working on a chicken wing dish,” Lachaine says. “You think chicken wings would be easy, but that’s been the biggest pain in the ass so far.”

    Joining Lachaine in the kitchen are cooks with serious chops. Sous chef E.J. Miller worked alongside Brandi Key at both Coppa Osteria and SaltAir Seafood Kitchen and worked as the executive chef at Down House. New Orleans native JD Fouché served as a sous chef at Reef, and Melven Batocabe worked at acclaimed Chicago restaurants Nightwood and Giant for chef Jason Vincent, who, like Chris Shepherd, earned a Food & Wine best new chef award in 2013. Pastry cook Alyce Garcia works for Tastemaker Awards Pastry Chef of the Year Becky Masson at Fluff Bake Bar. Together, they’re an experienced crew that Lachaine is practically giddy about working with.

    “The menu ideas we’ve had, we’ve sat down and discussed them. I’ve only had to give these guys a couple of recipes,” he says. “A lot of the stuff they can figure out themselves, maybe as good or better than I could. It made yesterday’s long day a lot easier.”

    In the front of the house, general manager Chris Fleischman, who also served as Pax Americana’s opening GM, has been given complete authority to develop an appropriate wine and cocktail list. Generally, he’s chosen high-acid wines like Riesling and lighter reds to match the food and created cocktails that riff on Lachaine’s Canadian heritage, including one inspired by borscht. Diners will find $40 values and a few $200 splurges — after all, why order caviar and not pair it with an equally luxurious sparkling wine?

    After a year in which Houstonians embraced new restaurants that served comfort food and carefully crafted concepts that originated in other cities, Riel represents a different direction. Lachaine’s food isn’t that wild, as he notes about the pierogies “every culture has a dumpling with something inside of it,” but it’s more ambitious than what the city has seen recently. Riel is also the first concept at least since Bernadine’s opened in December 2015 that seems explicitly designed to attract national attention. Lachaine concedes he would love to follow both Underbelly’s Chris Shepherd and Reef’s Bryan Caswell in earning recognition like a Best New Chef award from Food & Wine magazine.

    “I think everyone who is cooking or working at this level, I think that’s what they want to do,” he says. “I don’t know anyone who would say no to that. Everyone wants to be on the cover of the magazine or win a James Beard Award.”

    Of course, "ambitious" doesn’t have to be mean "formal" or "fine dining." Those bathroom murals are only one sign of the lively atmosphere Lachaine hopes to create. As the interview draws to a close, the chef hints at his expectations for Riel.

    “We’re excited, and we’re serious about what we do, but I don’t want anyone to take this too seriously,” he says. “I want people to come in here and have fun and enjoy themselves.”

    Riel Restaurant will be open for dinner from 5 pm to 10 pm Monday through Thursday and 5 pm to 11 pm Friday and Saturday. Reservations at OpenTable or by calling 832-831-9109.

    The bar at Riel.

    Riel restaurant bar
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    The bar at Riel.
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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Sneak peek at members-only wine club and restaurant opening soon in Upper Kirby

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 2, 2026 | 10:22 am
    55 Seventy Houston rendering
    Courtesy of 55 Seventy
    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    A wine-driven, members-only club is currently under construction next to Upper Kirby’s Levy Park. Called 55 Seventy, the game-changing facility is on track to open at the end of November.

    Prior to opening 55 Seventy’s original Dallas location in 2022, founder Tommy Shuey worked in finance. During the Covid-19 pandemic, he started looking around for new business ventures and quickly discovered that Dallas’ private wine storage facilities were completely sold out, despite, in his assessment, being relatively out of the way compared to where its clients live and not very nice inside.

    “The thought was, why don't I just make this nicer and charge more and put it in their backyard and really offer that quality and convenience that I feel like a wine collector would appreciate on storing wine,” Shuey tells CultureMap.

    He also envisioned a club component that would offer more than just a place for collectors to drink. It would provide a full service restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, along with the ability to host private events with custom menus. Dallasite embraced the concept, selling out memberships and prompting Shuey and his partner, sommelier Jeff Gregory, to search for a second location. They quickly identified Houston as the right place to expand.

    Bigger and better

    “Our winery partners, when they come for a tasting, they always go to Houston first or second,” Shuey says. Later, he adds, “The more I started digging into this Houston market, the more this is not going to be news to you, but you start unraveling this underbelly of wine in Houston. I'm convinced that Houston is the largest wine city in the country. It is unbelievable.”

    With lessons learned from the Dallas location, Houston’s 55 Seventy will be even more grand — a 30,000-square-foot, newly constructed building that will be able to hold as many as 150,000 bottles of wine while offering its members two restaurants, a demonstration kitchen, lounge areas, private dining and meeting spaces, and an art gallery. Houston's Gin Design Group is handling the interiors; as illustrated above, the club will have an Art Deco-inspired design.

    55 Seventy Houston rendering

    Courtesy of 55 Seventy

    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    “We've learned so much. A lot of it is learning, hey, we have to do this differently or we want to do it this way,” Shuey says. “And some of it's a guess. I think people are going to use the club differently from Dallas. I think Houston is a later city, and I think that they come in bigger groups more frequently than Dallas.

    “The one thing we know for sure is that Houston is a more adventurous food city. And it's a higher bar than Dallas. And so we hired two chefs, both of Michelin experience, to elevate the program.”

    While the food program will follow the template created in Dallas by executive chef and partner Josh Sutcliff, a veteran of Dallas’ acclaimed FT33 who’s committed to local sourcing and scratch cooking, day-to-day operations will be overseen by executive chef Diego Fernandez, who brings experience from Michelin-starred restaurants Alinea (Chicago), Quince (San Francisco), and time with research and development team at Pappas Restaurants. Executive banquet chef Jacob Solomon brings experience from the Michael Mina group to all of 55 Seventy’s private dining and events.

    55 Seventy’s main restaurant is located on its first floor. It will feature a wide-ranging menu centered around steak and seafood, along with sushi and vegetarian items. Shuey notes that many items will be able to be modified to accommodate gluten-free and other food allergies. Whereas the Dallas location opened with a 220-square-foot kitchen, later expanded to 660, the Houston club will have almost 2,000 square feet of kitchen space, giving both chefs plenty of room to cook.

    The second restaurant is called Canopy Bar. Located on the roof, it will serve pizzas and other Mediterranean-style fare. A nano wall will protect diners from the elements.

    “The goal is to have something a little more casual and approachable,” Shuey says. “I think what we're most excited about is to have those two very different restaurant options for our members versus in Dallas.”

    Shuey has made a similar commitment to the wine side of 55 Seventy by recruiting master sommelier Justin Moore to serve as executive director of wine. Most recently with Washington, D.C.’s Rose’s Restaurant Group that operates three, one-star Michelin restaurants — Pineapple and Pearls, Rose’s Luxury, and Little Pearl — Moore will oversee the club’s wine list as well as a wine brokerage service that will help members grow their collections.

    “I have deep respect for the classic benchmark producers, and I love finding the bottle nobody has heard of yet,” Moore said in a statement. “Houston appreciates both, and our list will reflect that.”

    Who the members are

    Two months before opening, 55 Seventy has already sold about 1,000 memberships. Ultimately, the club could offer as many as 3,000, but Shuey wants to build that slow. For now, the aim is to have enough people that both restaurants feel lively and that members are able to make connections with each other over great bottles.

    Beyond being able to pay the various fees — an initial payment of $6,000 for an individual, $7,500 for a couple, or $20,000 for a company, plus about $500 per month — Shuey says members typical have a certain perspective in common.

    “It's somebody who is at the stage of their life where they appreciate the finer things, food, wine, cocktails, and hospitality. If they're willing to appreciate the fact that we are sourcing our beef from a local producer, and they'll pay a little bit more for that because it's quality. It's somebody who wants their wine made by hand by a winemaker who's reputable and not by a machine and a factory somewhere. It's really somebody that wants our staff to know their name when they walk in and feel appreciated.

    “You're talking about partners at law firms, business owners, wealth management, firm partners, you're talking about people that live in the area and just love food and wine. People that work in the industry that have that like real appreciation for what we're building. And we don't want it to be stuffy. We want it to be approachable.”

    As he notes, service is a big part of 55 Seventy’s appeal. Since it isn’t operating with the same financial considerations as a stand-alone restaurant, the club doesn’t need to turn tables. A member can claim a spot all night, drink a bottle from their cellar, and eat as much or as little as they want to.

    55 Seventy is expected to open on Friday, November 27. It will be located at 3015 Richmond Ave. Membership inquiries may be directed to membership.houston@55seventy.com.

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