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    Anything but a cakewalk

    Masson shows off her one-armed ninja skills on Top Chef: Just Desserts, but aHouston chef is sent packing

    Sarah Rufca
    Sep 1, 2011 | 1:07 am
    • Rebecca Masson perservered despite a wrist fracture.
    • Houston's Vanarin Kuch was sent packing.

    Remind me never to describe anything easy as a piece of cake ever again. Top Chef: Just Desserts might have some outrageous, outside-the-box challenges up its sleeve, but for now just the most classic of all baked goods seems to be throwing the competitors for a loop.

    Anyone looking closely at the Bravo pics of Houston's highest profile pastry chef Rebecca Masson couldn't fail to notice the bright pink cast on her left arm, and this episode opened with her off-camera injury the night after the first challenge ended. I expected a cooking-related slip and fall or perhaps a case of whisking wrist, but Masson somehow hurt herself while "being a ninja," according to Amanda From Katy (otherwise known as Amanda Rockman).

    Aw, methinks the booze closet strikes again. It happens to the best of us, Becky.

    Who doesn't love lemon desserts? Communists and werewolves, that's who.

    Wrist wrapped and ready, the next day's quickfire is all about lemon desserts. Who doesn't love lemon desserts? Communists and werewolves, that's who. Also Orlando.

    Rebecca tests her injury immediately by juicing lemons for her take on lemon meringue pie with blueberries in ginger and lemon syrup, while another Houston competitor — Vanerin Kuch, pastry chef at Tiny Boxwood's — shows the judges a lemon curd semifreddo with coconut brown butter streusel and blackberry compote. Amanda From Katy whips up a caramel crémeux with café dulce comfit lemon segments.

    Honestly, it looks like the leftover tea in the bottom of my mug, and it lands her in the bottom along with Nelson and Orlando. Rebecca and Van skate by the middle while Matthew gets the win over Katzie and Carlos with a simple lemon vanilla crème.

    For the elimination challenges, teams form to create a tiered cake inspired by the Walt Disney Concert Hall. It must be nice for Craig to be working with Disney again, since he got his chef start as the non-rodent lead in Ratatouille.

    At this point, I get a little lost because everyone is just making cakes, and it's not a very visual process. There's something about Van designing instruments out of molding chocolate for his cake and a quick concern about whether Rebecca and teammate Sally should both make devil's food cake. Van finally gets his bio reel about living the American dream, with parents who emigrated to Houston from a concentration camp in Cambodia.

    It doesn't take a reality show addict to know that extra, unwarranted episode attention is — spoiler alert — not a good sign.

    The teams head to the concert hall for finishing touches and judging. The red team (Matthew, Chris, Megan and Melissa) present a cake that's simply shaped and monochromatic but stunning in its use of cascading sheet music made of fondant tumbling down one side. I would describe each of the cake layers, but suffice to say they all look delicious and I pretty much just want to eat them.

    The blue team (Vanarin, Katzie and Amanda From Katy) have created a tower that would legitimately belong on CakeWrecks.com, covered in musical notes, amateur-looking instruments and way, way more gold and silver glitter than I feel comfortable calling edible. In a word, it's tacky.

    Black team Orlando, Craig and Nelson have designed an interesting looking work of dessert architecture, which might have been a winner if it hadn't been for Craig's shoddy detailing and certain pieces melting and falling off in the sun. Finally Rebecca, Sally and Carlos, the green team, present their pretty, abstract-ish creation, which is a little more pretty in pink than anyone originally intended.

    When it comes to the judges' table, green and red teams are predictably on top. The news that she is safe sends Rebecca to tears over her survival so far with one good hand, which is kinda touching and adorable. But Ms. Masson is a bridesmaid and not a bride once again, as the win goes to the red team.

    The news that she is safe sends Rebecca to tears over her survival so far with one good hand, which is kinda touching and adorable. But Ms. Masson is a bridesmaid and not a bride once again.

    In the weaker teams, Nelson gets credit for good cake and interesting structure, while Craig and Orando get dinged for aesthetics and flavor. The blue team is essentially destroyed by the judges for creating amateur work and "not editing" (a.k.a. making everything gaudy and ugly). Amanda From Katy gets the sole compliment on her cake flavor (judge Hubert Keller declares it his favorite overall) but Katzie's is deemed spongy and Van is told he needs to "turn his flavors up to a nine or a ten." Yikes.

    In the end, Vanarin is sent packing, but not before being reminded that "you keep saying you're a flavors guy . . . your flavors were underwhelming. Plus your design was amateurish." He gets it, Johnny, just let him go pack his tools in peace.

    Poor Van, who never heard a kind word from the judges before being shown the door.

    Are you bummed the first two chefs to exit are Texans? Who do you think are the chefs to beat?

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    Goldee's and Barbs Go North

    2 Michelin-recognized pitmasters cooking up Texas barbecue joint in NYC

    Brianna Caleri
    Feb 26, 2026 | 4:46 pm
    Goldee's barbecue tray
    Photo by Will Milne
    Kirbee's will stay true to the menus at the two barbecue joints that came before it. (Pictured: A tray at Goldee's Bar-B-Q)

    Two important restaurants in the Texas barbecue scene have spawned a new project in a less-expected locale: New York City. Barbs B Q owner Chuck Charnichart and former Goldee's Bar-B-Q partner Jonny White will open Kirbee's, a restaurant combining classic dishes from both of its progenitors, at 55 McGuinness Blvd. South in Greenpoint (a neighborhood in Brooklyn) in about four to five months, White says.

    Both White and Charnichart have led two of Texas's most well-regarded barbecue joints. Located in Fort Worth, Goldee's ranked No. 1 on Texas Monthly's list of the state's 50 best barbecue restaurants in 2021 and ranked No. 3 on the 2025 list. Charnichart, who worked at Goldee's, opened Barbs B Q in Lockhart in 2023. Earlier this week, Barbs earned an impressive three-star review in the New York Times. Both restaurants hold Bib Gourmand designations in the Michelin Guide.

    Eater New York broke the news on February 24, and White caught CultureMap up with some additional written details.

    As Eater points out, Charnichart brings creative dishes from her Lockhart restaurant like pork ribs with lime zest, Mexican-spiced brisket, and the famous "green spaghett" made with poblanos and cilantro. White brings lauded barbecue from Fort Worth that's more fit for purists, including smoked turkey, brisket, and classic sides.

    For many, Barbs B Q represents the Texas barbecue vanguard. Now New Yorkers will be in on it, too.Photo by Bryce Gilbertson

    White further tells CultureMap that the menu will probably be organized into plates and trays so that guests can sample one barbecue joint or the other.

    White has been in New York for seven months after selling his shares of Goldee's. He's secured a building and is working with contractors to convert it for barbecue greatness. The two pitmasters will get to work together physically soon — although White doesn't spill the beans about whether Charnichart plans to move there or just visit.

    Kirbee's exterior New York Kirbee's will take over this cheerful space.Photo by Jonny White

    "Chuck is one of my best friends and an amazing chef," White says. "I’m super excited for us to be working together again and we are excited to be in New York!"

    One of the adjustments the duo had to make to thrive in the Big Apple is to make do with a smaller smoker setup. Instead of traditional offset smokers — the large barrels Texas foodies are used to seeing out back at their favorite barbecue joints — Kirbee's will use smoker ovens. White confirms the decision was about space, but he's hopeful the more consistent cooking process will actually be better than the Texas norm. "I think it will be interesting for people to compare," he says.

    The real question for barbecue-lovers who are in it for the culture: How will New Yorkers deal with the lines?

    "I think they’re used to long lines and being served to order because of Katz," White says, referring to Katz's Delicatessen, an ultra-famous New York deli since 1888 that's known for its gigantic pastrami sandwiches. But if it's not the brisket that transports Yankees to the Southwest, the Texas pitmaster looks forward to introducing them to Waco's own Big Red.

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