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    Food for Thought

    A doggy dilemma for Houston: Restaurant pet ordinances create confusion, AnniseParker wonders if there's a better way

    Marene Gustin
    Aug 31, 2010 | 7:42 pm
    • How can you turn this face away?
    • The terrace at Monarch is supposed to be dog free by ordinance, but leashed petsare allowed in reality.
    • Farmers markets have made into dog-free zones in Houston.
      Photo by Marene Gustin
    • The lamb lollipops that started this whole thought.
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    A lamb lollipop is, and isn’t, what you think. At Hotel ZaZa’s Monarch it is simply a perfectly cooked little lamp chop on a frenched bone. They come four to a plate with spicy horseradish for dipping and sweet and spicy jalapeños for topping.

    Light and yummy, they are my new favorite app, and they go down swell with Monarch’s Bubbles and Berries, a cocktail of champagne, rum and fresh blackberries and raspberries served in a sugar-rimmed flute.

    As lunch progressed at this swanky eatery through tomato soup and delicate grilled cheese, a spicy chicken sandwich and a wonderfully meaty sea bass swimming in a Bordelaise sauce that stood up well to a pinot noir, I gazed out at the elegant veranda and thought, not of food, but dogs.

    OK, follow me here.

    It was another in a line of great meals but I’d been thinking a lot about Houston’s ordinance that states: No live animals, birds, or fowl shall be kept or allowed within 20 feet of any area where food is stored, displayed, or held, excluding patrol dogs or support animals.

    Now, here I sat in this gorgeous luxury hotel that prides itself on being pet-friendly, offering “petilicious” (their word, not mine) treats at their pet turn down service. So what do they do if some rock star, Hollywood royalty, or real royalty for that matter, brings Fido down for a bite?

    If they are on a leash on the patio, there’s no problem, I was told.

    Um, except that it’s illegal, something Monarch and lot of other places either don’t know or don’t care.

    See, your neighborhood burger joint might get fined for letting you bring your four-legged pal on the patio but a lot of other places fly under the radar.

    Like, let’s say the Rodeo, where animals and fried foods mingle freely, or galas where pets are featured. And, even sports venues. Take the upcoming Dog Day at Minute Maid Park for example. For a price you can bring your pooch to watch the Houston Astros play ball (apparently something some dogs like to do) and you can get snacks.

    Oh yes you can. It clearly says so on the website: Limited pre-packaged food and beverages (i.e. hot dogs, Cracker Jacks, bottled Cokes, a variety of bottled drinks, etc.) will be available in the Reserved Seating Area and Dog Zone.

    Yet at Urban Harvest Farmers Market on Eastside they not only have a sign with a sad faced dog proclaiming no pets, they also have a security guard whose sole purpose seems to be turning away people with dogs. And, while they used to have baby goats and chicks for the children to play with, those are now gone, too.

    “I think it’s ludicrous,” says goat gal Lisa Seeger who now sells her Blue Heron cheeses at Highland Village Farmers Market. “About a third of the food here comes from animals. It makes sense to see the animals that your food comes from at a farmers market. You’d see them at the farm if you went there. I mean, I tried to milk my goats from 20 feet away but it just didn’t work.”

    Some farmers markets even have pet adoption sites. Although set up 20 feet from the food, you’ll frequently see folks test driving potential pets around the food.

    Having well-behaved animals close to food is not a health issue. There are no state or federal health regulations and if a dog on a restaurant patio is a dire threat to my health how is having a K-9 officer or service animal less dangerous to me?

    So will Houston ever join the likes of Dallas, Austin, West and East Coast cities and states?

    “I spent a lot of time growing up in Europe and have visited American cities that are dog friendly,” says the five-cat-owning Mayor Annise Parker. “I talked about this on the campaign trail and as we have the time to do it we’ll look at other ordinances. I’m looking at Dallas’ right now.”

    Dallas, like Austin, many California cities and the entire state of Florida have changed outdated health ordinances and laws in recent years to cash in on the country’s booming pet tourism industry. There are pet hotels, doggie day care centers, dog parks (like the one at the newly revamped Market Square Park that also features a Niko Niko’s but by God you better keep that growler 20 feet from the gyros), designer dog duds and kitty jewelry stores. There are websites that describe all types of pet friendly business, including some that list Houston restaurants) and places that offer pet marriages.

    According to the American Pet Products Association 71.4 million United States households include a pet and we’re going to spend an estimated $47.7 million on our furry, feathered and scaly friends.

    And yet Houston doesn’t want us to dine with them.

    But maybe there’s hope.

    “I really need a council member to take up the slack on this,” says Mayor Parker,who obviously has some other pressing issues on her plate. “And if there is a strong group of supporters I would like to hear from that group.”

    In the meantime, I’ll leave the chihuahua at home when I dine at Monarch. I’ll just ask for a doggie bag of those lamb lollipops. No reason he should be completely deprived.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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