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    big changes at la table

    Ben Berg bids adieu to neighboring French restaurant, reveals 2 new Galleria-area concepts

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 1, 2022 | 8:42 am
    Ben Berg Valerio Lombardozzi La Table
    Ben Berg and Valerio Lombardozzi will lead the new La Table.
    Photo by Jenn Duncan

    Big changes are coming to La Table. The French restaurant’s current iteration will close after service on Saturday, July 2.

    In its place will be two new restaurants developed by a partnership between Berg Hospitality, the local company that operates adjacent restaurants Turner’s and The Annie Café & Bar, and the Bastion Collection, the New York-based hospitality firm behind both La Table and Le Jardinier, the vegetable-forward, French fine dining restaurant at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston.

    They are: Tavola (Italian for table), described in a release as offering “upscale Italian fare in a vibrant atmosphere,” and a new, more upscale version of La Table. Tavola will occupy the building’s first floor, and La Table will operate above it.

    “We are thrilled to announce this strategic partnership with Berg Hospitality as we combine our strengths to refresh La Table and create a new dining concept downstairs,” Bastion Collection executive vice president Michelle Upton said in a statement. “We are confident that Houstonians are going to be there with us to celebrate the return of La Table and the opening of Tavola in February 2023.”

    Berg Hospitality founder Ben Berg tells CultureMap that Bastion approached him about helping re-concept La Table. Since it opened in 2016 as a replacement for the short-lived Table on Post Oak, the French restaurant had been known for its fine dining atmosphere and tableside presentations, but it dropped them after a six-month closure during the beginning of the pandemic. It reopened in November 2020 with a more casual menu at a lower price point.

    After consulting with his team and negotiating with the landlord, Berg and Bastion came up with a plan that will combine Berg’s operational expertise with Bastion’s roster of culinary talent, including Le Jardinier creator Alain Verzeroli and star pastry chef Salvatore Martone.

    “La Table never found itself after COVID. I think it had a really hard time,” Berg says. “One thing I really want to do is redefine what La Table is. We want to define what French is. We want the table service, but I want to do it in a more relevant dining room. Not in a staid, Old World dining room. Bring some energy back into the dining room.”

    The menu will focus on brasserie-style fare that diners will recognize, alongside some of the restaurant’s most popular dishes, such as the signature crab and avocado salad. Table side presentations could return, too.

    “We want to bring that relevance back,” Berg says. “There’s a void here in French restaurants, but I think we have to have identifiable French dishes as well.”

    Berg describes Tavola as being different from both of his existing Italian concepts, family friendly B.B. Italia and recently-opened Heights restaurant Trattoria Sofia. Physical changes to the space will allow it to seat approximately 60 inside and 80 on the patio.

    “It’s more Roman-style Italian with a real Euro-New York vibe,” he says. “It’ll be on the larger side of a big menu, heavy pasta, in a really intimate, fun, lively atmosphere.”

    To make room for two separate restaurants, the physical space will undergo a number of changes, Berg says. They include: removing the large internal stairwell in favor of an exterior elevator; relocating the current downstairs bar so that it’s adjacent to the patio; adding a second floor terrace for La Table; and installing a small kitchen downstairs that will execute Tavola’s menu.

    One constant will be La Table general manager Valerio Lombardozzi, who will continue in his role and oversee both openings.

    “My opinion is Valerio is probably one of the best service managers in the city,” Berg says. “To not use that to our advantage would be a big mistake.”

    Ultimately, Berg Hospitality will operate four restaurants in the same property, but Berg isn’t worried about competing against himself.

    “Turner’s and Annie is our American side. [Tavola and La Table] are our European side,” he says. “They complement each other. When you define what you are, people know where they’re going.”

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    visiting popup bagels

    A highly opinionated take on Houston's venture-backed new bagel shop

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 18, 2026 | 5:10 pm
    PopUp Bagels
    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels
    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

    It’s hard to remember the last restaurant opening with as much fanfare as PopUp Bagels. Houstonians lined up in the heat for the bakery’s grand opening on Saturday, June 13.

    Shawn the Food Sheep included a glimpse of the line in his review below.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Shawn Singh (@shawnthefoodsheep)


    Eager to see what the fuss is all about, I stopped by around 10 am on Thursday, June 18. Thankfully, only about a dozen people stood in line ahead of me, and I had a bag of six bagels in less than 20 minutes.

    The frequency with which it boils and bakes it bagels sets PopUp Bagels apart from Houston’s traditional, mostly family-owned bagel shops. Instead of making large batches early in the morning that may get refreshed once or twice per day, PopUp Bagels is constantly boiling and baking smaller batches of a couple dozen bagels at a time throughout its operating hours. That's why customers will hear the cry of “hot bagels” echoing through the small, counter-service space every time more emerge from the oven.

    PopUp is different from traditional bagel shops in a couple of other important ways. First, the menu only list five varieties — plain, poppy, salt, sesame, and everything, which is topped with poppy seeds, salt, and sesame seeds. And, it only serves whole bagels — no slicing or toasting. The store’s motto of “grip, rip, and dip” explains how it expects customers to consume their bagels. Packaged lox are available, but diners have to assemble the sandwich themselves — either off-site or at one of the couple of cafe tables outside.

    PopUp Bagels also doesn’t sell individual bagels. Instead, diners must order a minimum of three bagels and a schmear — various cream cheese and butters are available — for $15. Six bagels and a schmear costs $24. A dozen bagels and two schmears is $46. As a point of comparison, the Bagel Shop Bakery in Bellaire charges $25 for 13 bagels and two, 8-ounce schmears.

    So, how is it?

    Fresh, hot bagels are inherently superior to hours-old bagels. That’s a real advantage for PopUp Bagels. On my visit, the fresh-from-the-oven plain bagels were so hot that they needed a couple of minutes before we could "grip and rip" them.

    As for the bagels themselves, they certainly look the part. The outside is deeply caramelized with an even distribution of toppings that adhere well to the exterior.

    But the biggest shortcoming is texture. Bagels, obviously, are supposed to be chewy, but all six of the bagels that an ex-pat New Yorker friend and I ordered walked the line between chewy and underbaked. That may be deliberate, as softer bagels are easier to “grip and rip.”

    It's also possible that the bakery’s new employees are still dialing in procedures, and that a different day would yield bagels with a crispier texture. Colloquially, friends who have also visited the shop — both in Houston and other cities — disagreed with my assessment of the texture.

    The plain is just that, with a very mild flavor. Both the scallion cream cheese and salted butter had a pleasantly creamy texture and boosted the dining experience.

    Overall, PopUp is competitive with Houston’s best bagels. That’s promising, since Stripes — the equity growth firm that bought PopUp Bagels in 2023 — has announced plans to open more than 300 locations nationwide.

    But you won’t see me driving half an hour or standing in a long line to get another taste. Houston’s locally-owned bagel shops are more convenient, less expensive, and just as good.

    PopUp Bagels

    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels

    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

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