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Changes in River Oaks

Gourmet food shop brings classic American fare to River Oaks after bistro shutters

Eric Sandler
Aug 12, 2015 | 9:00 am

The turbulent River Oaks dining scene that's seen Taco Milagro become Local Foods, 60 Degrees Mastercrafted become The Harwood Grill and Brio become SaltAir Seafood Kitchen added another switcheroo to its roster Tuesday.

Upscale comfort food restaurant The Bird & The Bear has closed. In its place will be a new offering from gourmet food store Relish Fine Foods called Relish Restaurant and Bar.

"The first thing is the deal itself was great. I just couldn’t refuse the offer," Bird and the Bear co-owner Wafi Dinari tells CultureMap. "The second thing was the construction all over Westheimer. We have something going on that we’re looking into doing. We think it’s better to move forward without The Bird and The Bear."

Meanwhile, things are status quo at Wafi and his partner Elouise Adams Jones's other restaurant, iconic Southern restaurant Ouisie's Table, but Wafi has plans for a new concept, which he describes as "vibrant, chic Moroccan."

Turning to Relish, owner Addie D'Agostino tells CultureMap that she's excited about moving beyond her store's prepared gourmet items into a full service restaurant. "We’ve developed a good relationship with River Oaks at Relish, and we are hoping to give them a more high end dining experience," she says.

While the construction on Westheimer has been a challenge for restaurants in the area, D'Agostino says the improvements will ultimately benefit the neighborhood. "They’re going to make it easier for the neighbors to walk and access the area," she notes.

D'Agostino says the restaurant, which will be lead by Relish's executive chef Dustin Teague, will feature "really classic American fare. Simple food is what we like to cook and what we like to eat . . . There’s not a lot of just simply cooked cuisine (in River Oaks). That’s the direction we’re heading in."

Interior changes should take approximately six months, which puts Relish on track to open in the spring of 2016. "Basically, we’re going to redo the interior," D'Agostino says. "We’re going to put a new bar in, make that the focal point of the restaurant. It really needs an update. I don’t think it’s changed since Rickshaw. We want to give it a whole new look."

The Chronicle first reported The Bird & The Bear's closure.

Relish owner Addie D'Agostino and executive chef Dustin Teague will build on their success of their gourmet food store.

News_Relish_Owner Addie D'Agostino_chef Dustin Teague
Photo by Julie Soefer
Relish owner Addie D'Agostino and executive chef Dustin Teague will build on their success of their gourmet food store.
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Meet the man behind Houston's affordable new Chinese restaurant

CultureMap Staff
Jul 17, 2026 | 4:57 pm
Fortune Eight restaurant food spread
Photo by Clay Grier
Fortune Eight's menu includes dishes such beef with broccoli and mapo tofu.

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler talks to Allen Lin about Fortune Eight, his recently opened Chinese restaurant on Washington Avenue.



The conversation begins with Lin explaining how Covid restrictions and political turmoil in Hong Kong prompted him to close his four restaurants and relocate to Texas. Whereas his Hong Kong restaurants were full service, Fortune Eight is an affordable, fast casual concept.

“If I could do Chinese restaurants all over again, how could I streamline it so I wouldn’t have to be faced with so many inconsistencies in how we produce the food. I started looking at Chinese restaurants across America. Why is there only one restaurant that’s been able to do it on a wide basis? It’s Panda Express,” Lin says.

“I wondered if I could modernize Chinese food but make it with better ingredients. I wanted to create something that’s comfortable and familiar, but I want to elevate it a bit to make it taste better. You don’t feel so bloated and greasy afterwards. That’s what we’ve tried to focus and lean in on to create that consistency and taste.”

Towards that end, Fortune Eight uses automated cooking tools to saute the meats and vegetables in some of its dishes. Not only do these methods help Lin achieve the consistency he’s aiming for, they allow him to charge almost fast food level prices for Fortune Eight’s dishes. Diners can expect to pay about $13 for an entree, drink, and tax.

The tidy menu includes a greatest hits-style menu of Chinese and Chinese American fare, including Mongolian beef, beef with broccoli, walnut shrimp, sauteed green beans, chow mein, and, of course, General Tso’s chicken.

Listen to the full episode to hear more about Lin’s time in China. He also discusses his plans for marketing the restaurant and adding additional locations.

In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Felice Sloan discuss the news of the week. Their topics include chef Justin Yu’s plans to open House of Louie in Montrose, Barnaby’s Cafe opening a new location in Garden Oaks, and Uptown Italian restaurant Tavola closing just shy of its three-year anniversary.



In the restaurant of the week segment, Sloan and Sandler share first impressions of Galaxy Pizza, chef Anthony Calleo’s neighborhood pizzeria in Spring. Both of them find a lot to like about the casual eatery, including its crispy crust and plentiful toppings.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

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