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    Foodie News

    Houston Restaurant Week Diary: The Grove reminds us that size matters

    Sarah Rufca
    Aug 12, 2010 | 10:50 am
    • Quail skewers were small but delish
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The cheeseburger at The Grove is a sight to behold
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Perfectly light chicken tacos
      Photo by Sarah Rufca

    Editor's note: During the three-week extravaganza that Houston Restaurant Week has become, CultureMap's resident foodie — associate editor Sarah Rufca — is writing a diary of her culinary experiences around the city. This is her second entry.

    It's not terribly often that I take my own advice, but after compiling a list of the downtown spots offering lunch menus during Houston Restaurant Week, I knew I had to stop in at The Grove on my way to the National Business Travel Association (NBTA) convention (to hear Sir Richard Branson and otherwise screw around for a couple hours).

    Unsurprisingly, I wasn't the only one with the idea. Between business lunchers, restaurant week-ers, conventioneers and a couple of spiffy gaggles of flight attendants, the restaurant was hopping.

    Among the dozen or so choices for the appetizer course — plenty of rich-looking salads and spreads — we ordered the Dustin’s Farm deviled yard eggs topped with chorizo and tapenade, the smoked Texas quail skewers, and the queso and tortilla chips, served with salsa and guacamole.

    After hearing about the queso at The Grove for what seems like forever, I now understand the love. It had the kind of thick, stick-to-the-chip texture that makes queso so satisfying without the gumminess of processed versions. The only thing keeping it off my mental 'best quesos' list is a lack of heat — I could have used some cilantro and jalapeño mixed in along with the diced tomato.

    Next to a chunky but cloyingly sweet salsa and a guacamole, which was both bland and suffused with too much lime, the queso was a clear winner. Another point: It was enough of an appetizer to feed a whole trio.

    Next to the queso plate, the other apps were tiny, but full of flavor. The quartet of deviled eggs were a perfectly cooked juxtaposition of textures: Creamy yolk, crunchy chorizo, etc. The quail "skewers" should have been called quail bites served with extended toothpick.

    I don't take issues with the size of the plate, it was fair considering the price, but the word skewer implies more than one item per skewer in my worldview. The only true disappointment was the pineapple bourbon dipping sauce served with the quail, which tasted nothing like either pineapple or bourbon, and more closely resembled a bad peanut sauce served at a Thai place.

    For entrees, while we considered a burger trio made of the bacon cheeseburger, the shrimp burger with fennel and a lamb burger with tzatziki, in the end I traded the lamb burger for a lighter selection — the pulled rotisserie chicken tacos with corn relish and queso fresco.

    The burger was an immediate winner, cooked precisely, served with crisp bacon and boldly sans condiment (minus a side of ketchup), to show off (we presume) the juicy flavors of the meat.

    The shrimp burger was not as impressive, especially considering how amazing the version across town at corporate sibling RDG is. Made of tiny shrimp rather than a patty of the bigger, more luscious entree versions, it was a tasty, fennel-y mess — not that there's anything wrong with that. The tacos were simple, yet perfect: Just the right mix of tender chicken, bright cheese and a dash of corn sweetness.

    The only real drag to the meal was service. To be fair, the dining room was swamped when we arrived, but the waitress seemed to be in a sour mood. It could just have been me, but I wondered if the $20 max order made us less important than the suits at the next table.

    But as far as the food (and the view) was concerned, this was a a meal that was hard to beat.

    Other diary entries:

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
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