Beloved Restaurateur Checks Out

Beloved Houston restaurateur Frankie B. Mandola a congenial force to be remembered

Signature Chefs, Lorie Elizabeth James, Frankie B. Mandola, Adrian Franka

Frankie B. Mandola, pictured here at a Signature Chefs benefit with Lorie Elizabeth James, left, and Adrian Franka, was a beloved figure in Houston's restaurant community.

One of the most beloved figures in Houston's restaurant community passed away Friday. Frankie B. Mandola, 68, died due to complications from a heart attack, the Houston Chronicle reports.

Mandola's career spanned five decades, beginning in 1974 when he opened a Cajun restaurant called Ray Hay's. Ultimately, Mandola bought out his business partners and changed the name to one that contemporary diners are still familiar with: Ragin Cajun.

In 1992, Mandola and Bubba Butera purchased midtown Italian restaurant Damian's Cucina Italiana from Mandola's cousin Damian Mandola. In addition to Damian's, Mandola also owned Mandola's Catering — two establishments which represent just one part of the Mandola family's indelible mark on Houston restaurants that also includes Tony Mandola's, Ciro's, Carrabba's, Nino's, and Vincent's.

Friends and customers alike will remember Mandola's gracious, friendly demeanor and the warmth of his spirit. "He was definitely a presence walking through a room," Mandola's son Johnny B. told the Chronicle. "He was loud, very loud, and very Italian."

Beyond his contributions to the restaurant community, Mandola also had a distinguished athletic career at both St. Thomas high school and Rice University. The Rice athletics department posted the following tribute to Mandola on Youtube.

Funeral arrangements for Mandola are still pending, but the service will take place Thursday.

Update: Per Mandola's obituary, funeral arrangements are as follows: Family will receive friends on Wednesday, July 13, 2016 from 6:00 pm until 9:00 pm with a rosary being recited at 7:00 pm in the Cemo Auditorium at St. Thomas High School, 4500 Memorial Drive, Houston, Texas 77007. Funeral Mass will be Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 10:00 am in the Cemo Auditorium at St. Thomas High School with interment to follow at Forest Park Lawndale Cemetery, 6900 Lawndale Avenue, Houston, Texas 77023.

In lieu of flowers, the family asks that donations be made to the Texas Italian American Sports Foundation Scholarship Fund or P.O. Box 130163, Houston, TX 77019-0163.

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meet the new boss

Louisiana-born Houston chef assumes ownership of Greenway Plaza Creole eatery

Photo by Alex Montoya

Drake Leonards recently purchased Eunice.

Since it opened in 2018, Eunice has been drawing crowds for its Louisiana-inspired cuisine, serene setting, and the warm hospitality led by chef Drake Leonards. As he celebrates Eunice’s eighth anniversary this month, Leonards has added “owner” to his title.

Recently, Leonards purchased Eunice from New Orleans-based BRG Hospitality. The transaction cements Leonards’ status with the upscale Creole eatery, which he opened after working at restaurants such as Cafe Boulud in New York City and Restaurant August in New Orleans.

“If people assumed Eunice was already mine, I take that as a compliment,” Leonards said in a statement. “I've poured my heart into this restaurant since the beginning. Now I have the opportunity to continue building on what we've created while evolving the experience for the next generation of guests.”

Indeed, much of what diners know and like about Eunice won’t change. It will still serve its daily lunch specials; an appealing happy hour with deals such as $2 raw oysters, $9 bar bites, and $8 cocktails; and a wide-ranging menu that includes signatures such as smoked chicken and sausage gumbo, shrimp etouffee, and roasted duck with red curry and sesame. Its burger that’s ground in-house is another customer favorite.

“Louisiana will always be home. You never lose that,” Leonards said. “But Houston is where my family lives now, and owning Eunice lets me keep that Louisiana spirit alive in the city that took us in.”

BRG Hospitality is the New Orleans-based group behind Restaurant August, the Michelin-recommended fine dining restaurant founded by chef John Besh, Israeli-inspired restaurant Shaya, Pizza Domenica, Willa Jean bakery, and others. Eunice was its only Texas concept.

For Leonards, assuming ownership of Eunice allows him to continue evolving the restaurant so suit shifting tastes. It also opens up the potential for more concepts of his own.

“I believe in what we built here and I want to grow the business and the brand,” Leonards said. “A lot has changed since we opened. Houston has evolved, the food scene has evolved, and so has the dining palate. We want to evolve along with it while maintaining the standards and hospitality that guests expect from us.”

Photo by Alex Montoya

Drake Leonards recently purchased Eunice.

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