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    a very dynamic duo

    Dynamic dining duo cook up plans for experiential tapas restaurant in Kemah

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 8, 2022 | 1:10 pm
    Graham Painter David Skinner Benchawan Painter Preserve at Eculent
    Graham Painter, David Skinner, and Benchawan Painter.
    Photo by Eric Sandler

    In the world of Houston restaurants, collaboration dinners have become one way for chefs to express their admiration for the work of others and to entice diners to spend a little more than usual on a one-off meal. Whether it’s Truth Barbecue pitmaster-owner Leonard Botello IV serving smoked prime rib at Bludorn or Austin Simmons inviting BCN’s Luis Roger to Tris in The Woodlands, a collaboration is sure to fill a dining room.

    Eculent chef-owner David Skinner and Street to Kitchen chef-owner Benchawan Painter (known to friends and fans as Chef G) have something a little more permanent in mind. Instead of a one night only collaboration dinner, they’re opening a collaboration restaurant they’re calling The Preserve at Eculent.

    Slated to open in December in another part of the same Kemah property Eculent occupies, The Preserve will be a tapas-style concept that blends Painter’s Thai cooking with dishes by Skinner, some of which will be inspired by his great grandmother’s Choctaw heritage. As its name implies, many of the dishes will utilize preservation techniques that both chefs utilize such as fermentation and dry-aging. Certain Thai dishes utilize some chiles and other ingredients that are native to America, which will allow the chefs to explore the intersection between Thai and Native American cooking.

    “It’s basically going to be a Thai-tapas restaurant,” Skinner tells CultureMap. “It will be small bites, but all really unique and curated with an experience. It will be a combination of G’s stuff and my stuff, but with an interesting spin. And crazy, out-of-this-world drinks, because that has to go with it.”

    Painter and her husband Graham opened Street to Kitchen in the summer of 2020 in a small space that shares a property with a gas station and convenience. Despite the unlikely location, she’s earned raves for her self-described “unapologetically Thai” cuisine, including winning both Restaurant of the Year and Rising Star Chef of the Year in the 2022 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards.

    Eculent has earned similar raves. Known for serving as many as 30 courses over a three-plus hour tasting, Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema ranked the restaurant on a similar level with Michelin-starred establishments such as Chicago’s Alinea and Minibar in Washington, D.C.

    The chefs met at the Truffle Masters event in 2020; from there, the duo have developed a professional friendship based on mutual admiration. Painter has celebrated her last two birthdays with meals at Eculent, and Skinner can frequently be found dining at Street to Kitchen.

    “I love the techniques he uses. I don’t know how he does it, but it’s amazing,” chef Painter says about Skinner. “I feel like he’s so sweet. I’m still young, and I can learn a lot from him about food and techniques. I feel really comfortable when I’m here [at Eculent].”

    With Street to Kitchen operating smoothly — it recently suspended lunch service and began offering wine and beer to pair with its cuisine — the couple began to contemplate opening a second concept. Working with Skinner allows them to grow without taking on all of the risk themselves.

    “We don’t want to lose Street to Kitchen. We don’t want to jump too far too fast,” Graham Painter says.

    “It’s starting to run pretty well. There’s things we can do better, business-wise, but if it can be more self-sufficient that frees her up to team up with chef David and start a new adventure.”

    Skinner says he gets inquiries every week from diners who want him to open somewhere that’s a little close to the middle of Houston, but he likes where he is. He’d been developing the space that will be The Preserve for another project, but couldn’t resist the chance to collaborate with Painter.

    “I thought this would make it a lot more fun,” Skinner says. “You can tell we like each other. If you don’t have a good partnership, it doesn’t end well.”

    openingsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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