7 things to know

7 things to know in Houston food right now: Openings, closings, and coming attractions

Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

Openings, closings, and coming attractions

Brazilian steakhouse Gauchos do Sul’s new location in Highland Village will begin its soft opening on Thursday, June 11. Originally announced in February, the restaurant will occupy the former Up restaurant location at 3995 Westheimer Rd. Expect USDA Prime meats, New Zealand lamb, and more served via skewer-bearing servers.

Island Grill has opened its fifth Houston-area location in the Springwoods Village mixed-use development (1701 City Plaza Drive, Spring). The fast casual, Mediterranean-American occupies approximately 3,600-square feet, plus a spacious outdoor patio. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the menu covers everything from omelets and burgers to pitas and pizzas that are produced in a wood-fired oven. Hours are 7 am - 9 pm Monday - Saturday and 8 am - 4 pm on Saturday.

Patrenella's, the classic Italian-American restaurant near Buffalo Bayou, has closed. In a message posted to Facebook, the Patrenlla family thanked customers for supporting the restaurant for 28 years.

Tropicales, the all-day cafe from Blacksmith owner David Buehrer and partners Steve and Hilary Ybarra that closed in March, will not reopen, according to a representative. Opened in May 2019, the Latin-inspired bar and restaurant featured coffee, cocktails, and tacos served in a stylish, tropical environment.

The Toasted Yolk will open its 13th Houston-area location in Cypress on Monday, June 15. To celebrate the grand opening, the breakfast and lunch cafe will offer free churro donuts and $3 mimosas. Known for its classic American menu, The Toasted Yolk serves dishes such as Benedicts, salads, sandwiches, and pancakes.

Other news and notes

Saint Arnold Brewing Company has had a busy couple of weeks. Houston’s oldest craft brewery is celebrating its 26th anniversary with two releases this week: Double Art Car IPA and Double Barrel Imperial Stout, which is aged in both bourbon and port barrels. Last week, the brewery introduced Gratuity, a limited release Pale Ale; 100% of the profits from this beer will go to Houston Shift Meal, the local organization offering free meals to unemployed hospitality workers.

For the month of June, Goodnight Hospitality is donating all proceeds from every pizza sold at Rosie Cannonball and every bottle of June’s purchased at Montrose Cheese and Wine to the NAACP. In one week, the effort has already raised over $5,000. Partners June Rodil, Felipe Riccio, and Pete and Bailey McCarthy provided the following statement about their decision

The above is our first, small step to what we feel is a long road to justice. We want to establish firm roots to create something that’s sustainable to continue to bring awareness and change in our lifetimes. We are committed to learning more and doing more. We are open to avenues, pathways, foundations, and suggestions on how to do this. #blacklivesmatter

Tropicales has closed.

Photo by Chase Daniel

Tropicales has closed.

closings news-you-can-eat openings

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.