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In the nick(el) of time

Nationally renowned Austin bar spills news on big Houston expansion

Hannah J. Frías
May 23, 2022 | 4:25 pm
Nickel City is the new anytime bar in the former Longbranch Inn space.
Nickel City is the new anytime bar in the former Longbranch Inn space.
Photo by Hunter Townsend

It’s possible that back in 2020, no one told Nickel City owner Travis Tober about the pandemic: At least, it doesn’t seem to have slowed him down.

The force behind the venerated East Austin watering hole not only expanded into Fort Worth in January 2021, but also opened a new concept, Old Pal Texas Tavern, just months later in Lockhart’s Historic Downtown Square. This year, he co-founded Lockhart's Best Little Wine & Books — and it appears he’s just getting started, announcing a new Nickel City coming to Houston early next year.

Projected to open in early 2023, the third location will convert 3,200 square feet of a 1940’s warehouse with an interesting brick facade at 2910 McKinney St. Co-owner Craig Primozich will oversee design and construction, hiring Houston-based interior design team Lizzy Bufton and Stephanie Russel of Taft Studio to guide the project.

Hailing from Buffalo, New York, Tober plans to bring the familiar “Rust Belt Chic” aesthetic to the Houston outpost, along with the “bar inside a bar” concept introduced in the Fort Worth location’s not-so-secret mezcal bar, Bar Bagazo. Like the Fort Worth mezcaleria, the Houston concept will feature a single spirit focus, with a patio bar focused on rum.

Nationally acclaimed and locally beloved in both Austin and Fort Worth, the original Austin location opened in 2017 in the former home of the Longbranch Inn, quickly becoming one of the top bar programs in the country with a slew of accolades, including Esquire’s “Best Bars in America.”

In an exclusive sneak peek for CultureMap, Tober answered five quick-fire questions about a bar that's certain to attract plenty of attention when it debuts down the street from Tiny Champions.

CultureMap: Why did you choose Houston as your next Texas outpost?

Travis Tober: To me, Houston is the best food city in the U.S. It’s the biggest city in Texas and top 4 in the United States. It’s kind of like New York in that if you can make it there, you can make it anywhere. And it’s such a diverse city, it’s a 24-hour city, so we’re really excited about bringing a new Nickel City there.

CM: What’s the same and what’s different about each location?

TT: So in Austin, we have our cash-only bar, which raises money for charity. We like to feature traveling bartenders there about once or twice a month, and it all goes to charity. In Fort Worth, we wanted to be the largest agave spirit bar in the area, which we accomplished with over 250 SKUs of agave spirit. That bar itself was based on annual pop-ups we had been doing in Guadalajara, so we wanted to reflect that city in that back room in Bar Bagazo. For Houston, we realized patios were our shortcomings, and people really love the outdoors there whether it’s a gazillion degrees or not.


CM: Why rum?

TT: Houston is known as a big rum town: It’s one of the top cities in the United States for consumers of rum, so we wanted to do something a little more lighthearted with tropical vacation vibes — not tiki, but more tropical.

CM: What kept you going during the pandemic with all these new concepts?

TT: With bars, it can be a bit easier to redevelop and pivot, and it’s that idea that when stuff gets harder, the tough get going, and the pandemic allowed us to see where our shortcomings had been so that we could decide what to do differently and what to change. We redid our patios at both Nickels during the pandemic, and we’re excited to introduce an even bigger patio in Houston for that same reason.

CM: Last question: What are you drinking today?

TT: I am in Chicago researching rum bars and sourcing equipment for the Houston concept, so I’m drinking daiquiris.

Rum will be a focus for the new Nickel City in Houston, like this Painkiller.

Nickel City
Photo courtesy of Nickel City
Rum will be a focus for the new Nickel City in Houston, like this Painkiller.
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news/restaurants-bars

don't call it a comeback

Veteran Houston chef's vibrant new cafe now open at the Menil Collection

Eric Sandler
Jun 30, 2026 | 2:52 pm
Chroma restaurant food
Photo by Becca Wright
Flautas and campechana are both available at Chroma.

Visitors to The Menil Collection once again have a compelling, on campus dining option. Chrôma, the new restaurant from veteran Houston chef and restaurateur Claire Smith, is now open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Located in the former Bistro Menil space (1512 Sul Ross), Chrôma (styled in press materials as the all-lowercase “chrôma”) is an all-day cafe that serves Smith’s signature take on globally inspired comfort food.

"I'm honored by the trust the Menil Foundation has placed in me," Smith said in a statement. "Chrôma will be a space that reflects the creativity and warmth of the Menil community — a place where visitors, neighbors, and art lovers can gather, dine, and connect."

Smith worked with architect Dillon Kyle to transform Bistro Menil into Chrôma. The interior features a 30-foot sculptural bar that consists of seven kinds of marble in a butcher block pattern. The main dining room features a wood ceiling with bright orange felt leaves. Diners who opt for the 500-square-foot patio will have a view of the Menil’s celebrated Jack sculpture by Houston artist Jim Love.

"The space is an allegorical landscape," Kyle explained. "We have created a light and airy space that brings in the existing nature and landscape, aiming for a casualness that is comfortable to all.”

The menu will feel familiar to anyone who visited Smith’s previous establishments such as Shade, Canopy, and Alice Blue. Weekday breakfast includes classic egg dishes — think a green egg frittata; a bacon, egg, and cheese breakfast sandwich; chilaquiles; and Smith’s signature quiche. Pair them with freshly baked pastries that include croissants, scones, danish, and a gluten-free chocolate chip cookie.

During lunch and dinner, meals start with appetizers, including Japanese eggplant, fried green tomatoes, cheese and charcuterie plates, deviled eggs, and campechana that’s made with shrimp and crab. From there, diners can pick one of six salads, including a chicken cobb, and entrees that run the gamut from a BLT to a cheeseburger, chicken flautas, and pan-seared red snapper in a Thai red curry sauce. Weekend brunch, served from 10 am-3 pm on Saturday and Sunday, offers many of the dishes from both the breakfast and dinner menus.

Considered one of Houston’s earliest advocates for using locally sourced ingredients on a menu, Smith opened Daily Review Cafe, her first restaurant, in 1994. She followed it with Shade, which debuted in the mid-aughts on 19th Street in the Heights. It earned a devoted following for its Southern-inspired comfort food such as the signature shrimp and grits.

In 2017, she transformed Shade into the European-inspired Alice Blue, with an assist from chef Jason Vaughan and beverage expert Sean Jensen — the duo who would go on to earn a Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide for Nancy’s Hustle. She also operated all-day concept Canopy on Montrose Boulevard from 2009-2019.

Last year, Smith told CultureMap that she never planned to retire when Alice Blue closed in 2024. She was simply looking for the right opportunity to return to the dining scene.

“When the opportunity arose to open a project on the Menil campus, I jumped on it,” she said.

Chrôma opens daily at 7 am.

Chroma restaurant food

Photo by Becca Wright

Flautas and campechana are both available at Chroma.

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news/restaurants-bars

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