Brennan's new chef

Up-and-coming Chef of the Year returns to head culinary team at iconic Houston restaurant

News, Taste of the Nation, Sept. 2015 Joe Cervantez, Ronnie Killen

Joe Cervantez, seen here with Ronnie Killen, is going back to Brennan's.

Photo by Quy Tran

Brennan’s of Houston has found its new executive chef. The iconic Houston restaurant announced on Tuesday that it has hired former Killen’s Steakhouse executive chef Joe Cervantez to fill the role recently vacated by Danny Trace, who suddenly departed Brennan’s after seven years.

Cervantez brings lots of experience to the his new position. Prior to joining Killen’s, the chef worked at Brennan’s under Trace.

"We are thrilled to welcome Joe back to the Brennan’s of Houston family,” says proprietor Alex Brennan-Martin in a statement. “Joe is one of the most talented and resourceful young chefs I’ve had the pleasure of working with in my years in the restaurant business, and on behalf of (general manager) Carl Walker, chef Jose Arevalo, chef Martin Weaver and the rest of the team, we are ecstatic that Joe will be returning to the kitchen next month.”

Hired in 2014 by Killen's chef-owner Ronnie Killen to lead the steakhouse after he began spending more time managing and developing his other concepts, Cervantez earned wide acclaim for helping the restaurant transition from its original location into a larger location. Local diners recognized his work by awarding him the Up-and-Coming Chef of the Year award at 2016's Houston Culinary Awards.

Killen tells CultureMap that he encouraged Cervantez to accept the new position. “I don’t really want to lose Joe, but he’s the best person for that position,” Killen says. Later, he added, “whenever Joe does a feature, he does something that would be perfect for the Brennan’s menu.”

The chef adds that he’s watched Cervantez grow as both a cook and a manager during his time at the restaurant. “I never have to worry about something not being right,” Killen says.

Cervantez will spend a couple of weeks training at Commander’s Palace, Brennan’s world famous sister restaurant in New Orleans, before returning to Houston and assuming his new role in June.

"Brennan’s of Houston has always felt like home to me and I look forward to what’s to come in this new role,” added Cervantez. “I have watched Ella Brennan's Commanding the Table documentary three times now, and each time I get more excited.”

chefs

One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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