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    Hugo Ortega Wins!

    Sixth time's the charm: Hugo Ortega wins James Beard Award as Best Chef Southwest

    Eric Sandler
    May 1, 2017 | 9:31 pm
    San Francisco Nativity Academy Luncheon, 6/16, Hugo Ortega, Tracy Vaught
    Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught.
    Photo by Priscilla Dickson

    No more calling Hugo Ortega the Susan Lucci of the James Beard Best Chef: Southwest award. In his sixth year as a finalist, Ortega, the chef-owner of Backstreet Cafe, Hugo’s, Caracol, and Xochi, finally followed through on Bum Phillip’s famous promise to kick the son of a bitch in.

    Ortega’s victory at Monday night's ceremony in Chicago means that three out of the last four winners of the award, considered to be the Oscars of the American culinary community, have come from Houston. He joins Chris Shepherd (Underbelly, 2014) and Justin Yu (Oxheart, 2016) in the elite club. Let there be no doubt Houston has cemented its status as the best dining city in Texas.

    @chef_hugo65 is #houston proud! Just named best chef: southwest at #jbfa2017 #jbfa @visit_houston

    A post shared by Tracy Vaught (@tracy_vaught) on

    May 1, 2017 at 6:57pm PDT

    The odds seemed stacked against Ortega. National food website Eater picked San Antonio chef Steve McHugh (Cured), writing “This is the chef’s second nom, and most Best Chef winners win by their third. Chefs nominated more than that have slimmer odds, and both (Austin chef Brice) Gilmore and Ortega have five or more nominations.”

    Thankfully, no one told Ortega he wasn’t supposed to win on his sixth try. Then again, his life story has consisted of overcoming improbable odds. His rise to the top of Houston’s culinary scene is a classic American tale.

    The chef immigrated to this country and started working as a dishwasher at Backstreet Cafe. He showed some aptitude in the kitchen and eventually made his way to culinary school. Along the way, he fell in love with Backstreet’s owner Tracy Vaught. Together, they built the H Town Restaurant Group that operates some of Houston's best restaurants.

    Despite all the acclaim, Ortega remains one of the all time nice guys in Houston’s culinary community. Ortega and Vaught’s restaurants achieve high marks for quality and consistency.

    "What can I say," Ortega said during his acceptance speech. "America is beautiful and I'm living the dream. Thank you."

    After all Ortega has done to make Houston a better city to eat in, it’s the city that should be thanking him.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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