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    Daring New Bar Opening

    An intimate cocktail bar opens up in midst of Houston's most crazed party scene: Will quality work in Midtown?

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 8, 2015 | 3:01 pm

    It's a busy Saturday night on Bagby Street where Midtown earns its reputation as the city's premier party spot. The hour may be past 1 a.m., but places like The Gaslamp, Dogwood and Sage County all still sport long lines of well-dressed people.

    In the middle of the chaos, a refuge exists. Unmarked —at least for now — up a flight of stairs above Cook & Collins, only about a dozen people have noticed the very soft opening of Spare Key. Even when the bar marks its official debut on Friday night, it will be a very different place than its neighbors.

    At only 30 seats or so, Spare Key's capacity might be barely more people than the line for the bathroom at the Dogwood. Instead of a platoon of bartenders pulling taps and shaking Vegas bombs, Spare Key only has two people behind the bar. One of them is operating partner Chris Frankel. He's a St. John's alum with a well-traveled pedigree that includes stints at places like Anvil, RDG + Bar Annie and Captain Foxheart's Bad News Bar and Spirit Lodge.

    Frankel has lived in Midtown for eight years. He knows he's offering something different from his neighbors or even from other cocktail bars. For example, instead of an elaborate menu, Spare Key only has five classics and five house cocktails on its menu.

    At only 30 seats or so, Spare Key's capacity might be barely more people than the line for the bathroom at the Dogwood.

    "There is a trend to overdo cocktails with an elaborate menu," Frankel explains. "Sometimes you want a well-made Old Fashioned or Manhattan. I think there's room for another bar that serves them."

    More importantly, Frankel prefers to to have a conversation with his patrons about what they like instead of having them study a menu. That interaction allows him to craft a cocktail that suits their tastes.

    When a patron on Saturday asked for a Tito's vodka, which isn't on Spare Key's spirits list, Frankel was quick to suggest the vodka he does carry.

    Recalling the moment a few days later, Frankel says it's an example of Spare Key's style. "A lot of bars would say, 'We don't do that,' but that's not how to approach service." Furthermore, Frankel, who spent much of 2014 traveling, says he intends to work every shift at Spare Key for several months.

    Whether there's a market for that in Midtown remains to be seen. It's entirely possible that the audience for high quality cocktails will stay in Montrose or downtown and leave Midtown for people who can't imagine life without Jägermeister. Then again, Frankel's been working to open his own concept for awhile. He thinks he's catching the neighborhood at the right moment and cites newcomers like Wooster's Garden and the upcoming Izakaya from Kata Robata as examples of the changes taking place.

    Of course, Frankel's well-documented affection for Red Bull should help him meet his future customers in the middle between cocktail snobbery and party shots.

    "My reputation proceeds me," he says with a chuckle. "I'll keep it in stock. If you want to bomb something, it's always available."

    Spare Key's intimate space may not lend well to late night photography, but it's very different than its Midtown neighbors.

    Spare Key Midtown bar Chris Frankel
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Spare Key's intimate space may not lend well to late night photography, but it's very different than its Midtown neighbors.
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    a CultureMap Exclusive

    Houston's 'Chinese takeout bar from the future' touches down in Webster

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 1, 2026 | 4:02 pm
    Rice Box Webster rendering
    Courtesy of The Rice Box
    A rendering previews The Rice Box's new location in Webster.

    Houston’s Chinese takeout bar from the future is coming to the Bay Area. The sixth location of The Rice Box will open in Webster later this summer.

    Located at 114 El Dorado Blvd, the new location will be called Rice Box Space Center after NASA’s headquarters at the nearby Johnson Space Center. Founder John Peterson tells CultureMap that it’s a bit of a homecoming for him and his wife/business partner, Jenny Vo, as they grew up in the area. As with every new location, the restaurant created a movie-style poster to announce its opening.

    Rice Box Webster movie poster The Rice Box Space Center is expected to open later this summer.Courtesy of The Rice Box

    For its first truly suburban location, Peterson plans to offer a more efficient pickup system for to-go orders. Dubbed The Rice Box Pickup Reactors, the system applies Rice Box’s sci-fi aesthetic to curbside ordering. As seen in the rendering above, the building will have six slots that drivers will pull into to get their orders.

    “The goal is to have guests in and out with food in hand in around 90 seconds,” Peterson writes in an email. “It’s still pickup, but we’re trying to make that moment feel more intentional and more connected to the digital side of Rice Box instead of treating it like an afterthought. We’re looking at this opening as both a new store and a prototype for how Rice Box can work in more suburban markets without losing the part of the brand that makes it feel like us.”

    Bay Area-area diners can expect the same menu as the Rice Box’s other locations. That includes staples such as General Tso’s chicken, sesame chicken, beef with broccoli, and orange peel beef. The restaurant also serves traditional Chinese-inspired fare such as Chongqing chicken, cumin beef, mapo tofu, and chow fun noodles.

    Recently, Peterson rolled out a new version of Rice Box’s dumplings. Available in chicken, pork, or vegetable, each style of dumpling comes with a different wrapper that enhances the filling’s flavor. They’re also available either steamed or fried.

    The Rice Box started as a food truck in the early 2010s. After moving to a permanent location in the Greenway Plaza food court, it has opened brick-and-mortar locations in the Heights, River Oaks, Rice Village, and Memorial.

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