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    Food for Thought

    The Cheese Queen: No bread for you!

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 30, 2010 | 11:09 am
    • Juliet Harbutt
      Photo by Suzanne Mitchell
    • Juliet Harbutt's "The World Cheese Book"

    I’ve always liked cheese, well most cheese. I like cheese in solid form and in liquid — you can’t beat a good chili con queso — but I’ve never been fond of that in-between stuff that stretches in gooey strings off of cheap pizza. It’s a texture thing.

    I once spent almost an entire summer eating nothing but Dr Pepper and those packets of cheese and crackers from vending machines. But I’m not sure that was real cheese.

    And then there were endless art receptions of wine and cheese cubes, so I admit I really didn’t know a lot about good cheese until fairly recently. Oh, I knew enough not to serve that stuff from a can with cocktails, but when it came to buying cheese I relied on others. Chefs, gourmet shop keepers and then those local cheesemongers the Houston Dairymaids.

    But no more.

    I wouldn’t say I’m a cheese expert today, but after a tasting with Juliet Harbutt I now know more about soured milk than I thought possible. Harbutt was in town at Central Market to introduce her British cheese selection, 15 cheeses that represent her favorite traditional and modern cheeses from Scotland, England and Wales. Originally from New Zealand, Harbutt is the queen of cheese, so to speak, creator of the British Cheese Awards and author of the World Cheese Book (also available at Central Market).

    And she is one funny lady. How the Food Network hasn’t snapped her up for a show is a mystery.

    At a media tasting she served us nine of her cheese selections along with two tasty California wines, a Grayson Cellars merlot and a Skin & Bones dry Riesling.

    Her thoughts on wine pairing with cheese: “Just keep doing it!” Now that’s my kind of woman, although she did offer a little more a little more detailed advice. “The lighter and whiter the cheese, the lighter the wine,” she said.

    We tasted modern and traditional British hard cheeses, soft cheeses, flavor added cheeses, and blues. I fell in love with the creamy, gooey and aromatic Blue Monday, a cube-shaped cow’s milk cheese she created herself in partnership with Alex James, the bassist for the 90’s alt rock band Blur. Harbutt describes the wonderful flavor as akin to “an aging rock star.” I have no idea what that means, but it’s mellow and zesty at the same time. The cheese, not James, at least as far as I know.

    There’s also the oddly named Snodsbury, a soft white goat cheese, but as Harbutt told us, cheese can be made from any milk.

    “You can make it from goat’s milk, or buffalo or camel,” she said. “Though I wouldn’t recommend camel Camembert, had it once and that was enough.”

    Harbutt talks about cheeses as though they are people, mostly friends and loved ones except for that camel Camembert.

    “This is my Creamy Lancashire,” she explained. “When he’s young he’s creamy, when he grows up he’ll dry out and become a hard Lancashire.” Don’t we all?

    After working our way through several cheeses and several glasses of wine she explained why there was nothing else to eat. “I haven’t given you any crusty bread because I’m a heartless person,” she said. “And because if I see you making cheese sandwiches I would have to kill you.” But she did relent towards the end and allow us bread and salad, probably as a way to sober up before we left.

    But I did leave with some good advice for my next wine and cheese party. Harbutt’s rules for a perfect cheeseboard are simple. Choose a variety of shapes and colors in your cheeses, buy them just before you plan to eat them, take them out of the fridge an hour before you serve and place them on a basic wood or marble board. Or, just do whatever the heck you want.

    “The voyage is what’s fun,” Harbutt said. Oh, and don’t forget the wine.

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    free soft serve for all

    Johnny Carrabba now serving Southern comfort food at new Bellaire locale

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 13, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    Mia's Table fried chicken
    Mia's Table/Facebook
    Mia's Table is now open in Bellaire.

    A fast casual, family-friendly Houston restaurant has arrived in Bellaire. After a two-week soft opening, Mia’s Table is now open full time in the Bellaire triangle.

    Located in the former CounterCommon space at 5413 Bellaire Blvd, the new restaurant is Houston’s seventh Mia Table, joining the original on Kirby Dr. as well as stores in Memorial City, Shenandoah, Katy, and more. An eighth location will open in Sugar Land later this year. Beginning this Saturday, February 14, the restaurant will be open its regular hours of 11 am-9 pm daily.

    Houston restaurant legend Johnny Carrabba opened the first Mia’s Table in 2012. Unlike his pioneering Italian restaurant Carrabba’s that offers full service and an upscale environment, Mia Table is a family friendly, counter service restaurant that serves classic, Southern-inspired fare. Diners know it for dishes such as burgers, salads, chicken fried steak, and chicken tenders. In addition to the relatively affordable prices, families appreciate the free soft serve ice cream.

    “At Mia's Table Bellaire, our focus is simple: serving great comfort food with genuine Southern hospitality in a welcoming, family-friendly environment,” managing partner John Cahill writes in a note on the restaurant’s website. “While this location already holds a special place in the neighborhood, we're proud to bring the consistency, care, and heart that guests have come to expect from every Mia's Table.”

    Cahill adds that he grew up in Bellaire and has been with Mia’s Table since June 2014. Prior to opening the Bellaire location, he served as managing partner of the restaurant’s Bay Area location in Webster.

    In addition to Mia’s Table, Bellaire recently welcomed the second location of Candente, Houston’s only Michelin-recognized Tex-Mex restaurant.

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