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    Food for Thought

    The Cheese Queen: No bread for you!

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 30, 2010 | 11:09 am
    • Juliet Harbutt
      Photo by Suzanne Mitchell
    • Juliet Harbutt's "The World Cheese Book"

    I’ve always liked cheese, well most cheese. I like cheese in solid form and in liquid — you can’t beat a good chili con queso — but I’ve never been fond of that in-between stuff that stretches in gooey strings off of cheap pizza. It’s a texture thing.

    I once spent almost an entire summer eating nothing but Dr Pepper and those packets of cheese and crackers from vending machines. But I’m not sure that was real cheese.

    And then there were endless art receptions of wine and cheese cubes, so I admit I really didn’t know a lot about good cheese until fairly recently. Oh, I knew enough not to serve that stuff from a can with cocktails, but when it came to buying cheese I relied on others. Chefs, gourmet shop keepers and then those local cheesemongers the Houston Dairymaids.

    But no more.

    I wouldn’t say I’m a cheese expert today, but after a tasting with Juliet Harbutt I now know more about soured milk than I thought possible. Harbutt was in town at Central Market to introduce her British cheese selection, 15 cheeses that represent her favorite traditional and modern cheeses from Scotland, England and Wales. Originally from New Zealand, Harbutt is the queen of cheese, so to speak, creator of the British Cheese Awards and author of the World Cheese Book (also available at Central Market).

    And she is one funny lady. How the Food Network hasn’t snapped her up for a show is a mystery.

    At a media tasting she served us nine of her cheese selections along with two tasty California wines, a Grayson Cellars merlot and a Skin & Bones dry Riesling.

    Her thoughts on wine pairing with cheese: “Just keep doing it!” Now that’s my kind of woman, although she did offer a little more a little more detailed advice. “The lighter and whiter the cheese, the lighter the wine,” she said.

    We tasted modern and traditional British hard cheeses, soft cheeses, flavor added cheeses, and blues. I fell in love with the creamy, gooey and aromatic Blue Monday, a cube-shaped cow’s milk cheese she created herself in partnership with Alex James, the bassist for the 90’s alt rock band Blur. Harbutt describes the wonderful flavor as akin to “an aging rock star.” I have no idea what that means, but it’s mellow and zesty at the same time. The cheese, not James, at least as far as I know.

    There’s also the oddly named Snodsbury, a soft white goat cheese, but as Harbutt told us, cheese can be made from any milk.

    “You can make it from goat’s milk, or buffalo or camel,” she said. “Though I wouldn’t recommend camel Camembert, had it once and that was enough.”

    Harbutt talks about cheeses as though they are people, mostly friends and loved ones except for that camel Camembert.

    “This is my Creamy Lancashire,” she explained. “When he’s young he’s creamy, when he grows up he’ll dry out and become a hard Lancashire.” Don’t we all?

    After working our way through several cheeses and several glasses of wine she explained why there was nothing else to eat. “I haven’t given you any crusty bread because I’m a heartless person,” she said. “And because if I see you making cheese sandwiches I would have to kill you.” But she did relent towards the end and allow us bread and salad, probably as a way to sober up before we left.

    But I did leave with some good advice for my next wine and cheese party. Harbutt’s rules for a perfect cheeseboard are simple. Choose a variety of shapes and colors in your cheeses, buy them just before you plan to eat them, take them out of the fridge an hour before you serve and place them on a basic wood or marble board. Or, just do whatever the heck you want.

    “The voyage is what’s fun,” Harbutt said. Oh, and don’t forget the wine.

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 518 and 519

    Meet the men behind River Oaks' new destination for bowls and broth

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 19, 2025 | 4:40 pm
    Honest Mary's restaurant exterior
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Honest Mary’s founder Nelson Monteith and COO Andrew Wiseheart joined CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss the Austin-based restaurant that just opened its first Houston location in the River Oaks Shopping Center (2047-A West Gray St).



    Monteith shares that he started the restaurant in 2017 in order to fulfill his vision of a restaurant which could serve food that’s fast, fresh, and affordable. A trained chef who operated pioneering Austin restaurant Contigo, Wiseheart joined the group to bring both culinary expertise and operational acumen to the grouping company.

    Part of what sets Honest Mary’s apart is that diners can add cooked vegetables to the rice and proteins at the heart of every bowl. The “Market Sides” section includes an array of roasted vegetables — including sweet potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, beets, and Brussels sprouts — as well as black beans, maple-glazed carrots, and green lentils. Bowls can be further enhanced with toppings such as Texas pecans, crispy chickpeas, goat cheese, avocado, and apples as well as sauces such as creamy poblano, cashew lime crema, sesame vinaigrette, spicy peanut, chimichurri and apple cider vinaigrette

    Monteith explains that looking at the ingredients on display usually inspires him when he’s deciding what to eat at Honest Mary’s.

    “I will almost always look at the line and see what looks fresh and good,” Monteith says. “Today, I got the salted kale with white rice. Then, I got garlic-pepper steak. I added on lentils — they’re my go-to in the winter. They blend everything together, and I love it Then Brussels sprouts looked green. I got some jalapenos. Avocados, cause that’s healthy. Then I got the chimichurri sauce.”

    Honest Mary’s is also known for its hearty broths, a classic chicken and a vegetarian option made with seaweed and mushroom. Sandler raves about the chicken broth to Wiseheart, who shares how it’s made.

    “We spent six or seven months testing recipes and drinking it ourselves to see if it’s a good idea,” Wiseheart says. “I talk about it as a great complement to the menu. It’s healthy. It’s really simple. Most of the kitchens I came up with were rooted in French cuisine. This is just chicken stock with salt in it.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about Honest Mary’s plans for additional locations in Houston and Dallas. Then Monteith asks a Sandler a few questions about the Houston dining scene.



    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Home Slice Pizza opening a new location in the Heights; the closures of Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy and Killen’s Barbecue in The Woodlands; and Esquire including ChòpnBlok on its list of America’s best new restaurants.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, the two friends discuss their recent meal at Hypsi, the Italian restaurant in the newly-opened Hotel Daphne. Listen to the episode to hear their favorite dishes and other thoughts on the meal.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.



    Honest Mary's restaurant exterior

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

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