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    Changes at Conservatory

    Downtown food hall nixes noodles for poke, relocates wine bar, adds bakery kiosk

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 22, 2017 | 9:15 am

    Ramen is out and poke is in sounds like the start of a joke about the fickle nature of food trends, but it has also literally happened at Conservatory. The downtown food hall and beer garden recently ended its relationship with ramen shop Samurai Noodle and replaced it with Moku Bar, a poke and tempura concept from Casian King food truck owner Tuan Tran.

    Conservatory owner Anh Mai tells CultureMap that Samurai and Conservatory made a mutual decision to part ways when the ramen shop’s one-year lease expired. He chose to work with Tran after hosting a number of poke pop-ups at the space.

    “He did a pop-up a year ago, and blew the doors out of this place,” Mai says. “It was the most anyone has (sold) for a pop-up. I think he did almost $4,000 in four hours. We knew we had something with him.”

    Tran brings eight years of experience as a sushi chef to his poke, which is reflected in the diverse array of sauces and toppings available. As at more of the new poke restaurants, diners may either build their own bowl or go with a suggested mix of toppings. What’s sets Moku apart, according to Tran, is the way the restaurant prepares its fish.

    “We’re different because we do it the authentic way,” Tran says. “(Some other places) put the sauce right on the fish as they serve it, but we marinade our fish ahead of time. The flavors are absorbed into the fish.”

    To refine the concept, Mai and Tran worked together to develop dishes that fit with Conservatory’s atmosphere of being a place friends can gather for drinks, including poke towers (marinated raw fish on vegetables), spam musubi, and several tempura options. If it all goes well, the concept will get its own brick-and-mortar in the future.

    In addition to adding poke, Mai is making some other changes to Conservatory. First, he’s united all of the individual food concepts within delivery apps, which allows a customer to use an app like DoorDash to order, say, a gyro from Myth Cafe and tacos from El Burro, while only paying one delivery fee. To enhance its appeal to downtown office workers, Conservatory will soon add bicycle deliveries to area offices.

    Structurally, the current greenhouse space beneath the stairs will soon become the Noble Rot wine bar. Relocating the wine from the tap wall frees up some space for a kiosk called Mars Bakery that will serve kolaches and doughnuts in the morning and sandwiches in the afternoon. Baker Maryssa Maize, who has worked at both State of Grace and Fat Cat Creamery, will run Mars with her boyfriend Scott Ache, who currently works at Conservatory as a bartender. Other changes could be coming, but Mai said he isn't ready to announce them yet.

    “We find talent, people we come across, and say let’s do something,” Mai says. Sounds like the perfect summary of Conservatory’s mission, along with serving an interesting mix of food to downtown denizens all day long.

    Moku Bar at Conservatory offers a wide selection of poke and toppings.

    Poke at Moku Bar
    Courtesy photo
    Moku Bar at Conservatory offers a wide selection of poke and toppings.
    openingsdowntownnews-you-can-eattrends
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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